Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 18, 2004 04:47pm | #1

   I can only tell you that I use the "lone ranger" system -- I can't remember if there is another brand name to it -- and it works great.

   This is the one sold by Woodcraft.

1. 
   migraine | May 19, 2004 06:40am | #4

   Lone ranger is made by penn state industries.  I swear by these things, I have 3 or 4 of them, all different frequencies

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 19, 2004 07:10am | #5

   What's the deal with different frequencies?

   The only thing I could think of is that you have more than one dust collector.

1. 
   migraine | May 19, 2004 06:21pm | #6

   Actually, I use them for different purposes.  One id for the dust collector, another turns on my rotary phase converter, and another turns on some remote lights where I have power to them and no switch.  Two of the controllers are 220v/single phase and the other controller is for 110v

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 20, 2004 02:11am | #7

   What on earth is a "rotary phase converter" ??? A gismo to run 3 phase machines?

2. 
   UncleDunc | May 21, 2004 11:08am | #11

   You guessed right. Search here or Google for more info.

2. 
   user-247493 | May 18, 2004 07:03pm | #2

   I'm also looking for a 220v remote, so I looked around a bit for the Shop Fox.  There are 2 very negative reviews on the Amazon site (below).  They basically site a number of serious problems with the Shop Fox 220 remote.  I will be staying well clear of it.

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00012Y74C/qid=1084895687/sr=1-10/ref=sr_1_10/103-6941215-9303810?v=glance&s=hi

1. 
   cutawooda | May 19, 2004 06:02am | #3

   Your  post was invaluable.  This is why it pays to come to this site and ask questions. I was hesitant about its low price. You not only saved me 40 bucks but possibly more. My eternal gratitude. The Lone ranger it is!

3. 
   Mackwood | May 20, 2004 03:19am | #8

   I don't know how much money you are going to spend  but I set up my system so that when I open any one of my blast gates (home made out of 1/4" pvc plate and 4" sewer pipe) a micro switch mounted to it actuates and turns on the unit.  The switches were about $7.00 ea and the relay box was about $65.00 as I recall.  Relay rated for 220V and correct for the HP of the unit.  Micro switches are heavy duty industrial.  Opening the gate breaks a ground and activates the relay.  It's been in operation for about two years now and there hasn't been a single problem. 

   You have to open a blast gate to use the system.  Why not make that turn it on?

   Regards,

   Mack

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

1. 
   user-247493 | May 20, 2004 05:56pm | #9

   I had exactly the same idea a while ago, but I didn't know how to go about it.  what sort of relay did you use, where did you get it?  what else did you need to make the system.  did it cost less than a long ranger?

1. 
   Mackwood | May 21, 2004 03:41am | #10

   Jim,

   I'll have to dig around in my paper work to give you specifics but all items (micro-switches and relay) were purchased here in Seattle at electrical supply houses and seemed to be very common items to them.  Other than common hardware and wire, that's all I needed.

   I don't have any idea how much a "Long Ranger" cost so I have no way to compare.  From what I've read, the LR'r just turns on the "unit"; you still have to walk over and open the blast gate.  You have to carry around a "remote" (or find where you've put it down last) and even though I wear a shop apron, that wasn't something I wanted to do.

   I only get to my shop in Oak Harbor on the weekends (do you feel my pain LOL) so I'll at least get part numbers etc. this weekend and I'll put some effort into trying to find the receipts, etc.

   Regards,

   Mack "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

1. 
   Lazarus | May 21, 2004 04:25pm | #12

   I, too, would be interested in knowing how you went about setting up your system.Lazarus"Wisdom is the toughest of teachers! She gives the test first and the lesson after."

1. 
   Mackwood | May 25, 2004 01:00am | #19

   To: anybody that cares!?

   Subj: DC Components

   The relay I used (3HP Unit) is a "Wire Guard Systems Inc.", Junction and Pull Box 667K Type 1.

   The micro switches are:  "Micro Switch USA", BZ2RW80-A2, 0028 Micro

   The relay controls 220V power to the unit and is in turn controlled by 110v power.  The switches are wired in series and connected to ground via a regular outlet using just the one wire of a common plug.  Opening a gate breaks the ground, activates the relay and turns on the unit.

   I could not find the receipts so can't quote the cost or exact source but Platt Electric Supply or similar would be able to size a relay for any size motor and micro switches are very common and come in a wide variety of actuating and mounting styles.  Mine are a simple arm that is mashed down by a machine screw that runs through the sliding part of the blast gate.

   Regards,

   Mack

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

2. 
   Knothead05 | May 21, 2004 05:32pm | #13

   Your system sounds like a terrific design, and I'd also like some information on the specifics when you get a moment.

   I did quite a bit of research while planning my initial installation, looked at friends shops, etc., and as a first step, purchased the Lone Ranger 220v. controller from Woodcraft for $75.  As a few others have indicated, it works flawlessly, and for something that can control at least 2 HP at 220v, the price is fair.  Sure, one can piece together various parts from basic electrical components and spend less, but for many of us. the time and learning curve it would take is worth the extra cost of perhaps $40 or so.

   One point I'd like to make for others in this thread, though, is that dust collection control is really one of the areas of woodworking where the term "different strokes for different folks" applies.  The blast-gate relay system is an excellent alternative, as is the one a good friend installed that has the collector turned on by a relay that senses whenever one of several of his machines is turned on - and turns it off a few seconds after the power tools is turned off, to allow time to suck up the leftover dust in the immediate area.

   I have realized as I plan my next step, that how I intend to use my shop during my sessions there changes often, and therefore how the collector is controlled may also change.  Your blast-gate control system will be supurb when my process involves moving from machine to machine frequently as I do if working on a single project over a short time frame, moving around the shop with lots of steps on several tools.  That's when "you have to open the gate anyway, so why not have that turn on the collector?" to paraphrase you, Mack.

   However, when I am working on a project where I spend an extended time at one machine, such as using the table saw to cut a supply of parts, I want to be able to turn the saw on and off frequently, and the dust collector as well.  I may be transferring dimensions, checking fit, etc., and having the dust collection system whirring away constantly would be bothersome and distracting (not to mention a waste of energy.)  In those situations, the Lone Ranger's remote, clipped conviently to my belt or apron pocket, is just the thing.  Why have to walk to the blast gate every time you stop to spend a few mintues with the power tool idle?

   My friend's "power sensor" control system, however, would be the best one when the work process is more of a mix...longer time on each machine, but still with significant overall down time when the collector isn't needed.

   The trick, that Mack's alternative could help with, is to have a control system/strategy that would allow all three control approaches to coexist.  So far, I'm a bit stuck on designing "the perfect" system because of the magnetic switches built into several tools.  Any suggestions?

1. 
   Mackwood | May 21, 2004 09:36pm | #14

   Knothead,

   I hope I didn't give anyone the idea that I consider myself any sort of DC expert or cosultant.  I have built a very simple system that works for me, in my shop, on my property.  The relay and micro-switches certainly cost more that $40!!

   The power sensor gates are pretty neat but if I'm not mistaken they are not cheap either.  I've seen them under the brand "Euro-Gate" I think.  If I were to start all over again (God forbid!) and money were not an issue, I'd probably go that route.

   You're absolutely correct about "different strokes---", I have my DC "unit" outside the shop in a sound proofed "dog house" so the noise you hear from it is minimal.  In the shop you barely notice it's on.  I frequently leave it on for a few minutes to change settings or whatever.  I feel that it's cheaper to leave it run, unloaded, briefly, than to stop and start the 3 hp motor. 

   If the "Long Ranger" or other brand is everything you need to control the DC system, self-contained, you don't mind carrying a remote and only cost $40; it sounds like a viable option.

   If I paid myself an hourly wage, I probably wasted my time building my own blast gates as well.  But then again, the material was pretty cheap, they're practically bullet proof, come apart very easily just in case and there's a certain satisfaction in saying "I built them myself".  There are 12 blast gates in my system of which 3 are floor sweeps and three others are unused (future expansion??) but once I started making them, I tried to figure every place there was even a remote chance I'd ever need one.

   The system is no where near "perfect" or even complete!  A DC expert would probably tear into it like ants at a picnic.  It is very durable; effective enough for my use and by comparison to some others I've seen, some aspects of it might be considered a viable alternative for some others. 

   I'll look for receipts this week end and post particulars about the cost and suppliers, etc.

   Regards,

   Mack  "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

4. 
   DougF | May 21, 2004 10:17pm | #15

   All,

   I use a slightly different system from Fernwoord.  Their URL is http://www.dnet.net/frnbrook/fernpage17.htm#APPLIANCE%20MODULES.  They are most helpful if you have technical questions.

   For about the same cost as the Lone Ranger, this unit controls 1 220v, 20 amp (max 2 hp) power module and a 2nd frequency control for a 110v 15 amp power module.   The remote switch has on/off buttons for each frequency.   This has been very useful since I have my Oneida 2hp cyclone do all of the heavy lifting and I use a shop vac piped to the small equipment and for floor vacuuming.   I keep a remote on each side of the shop located where I tend to be the most - one at the CS and one at the RAS.

   One thing that some people tend to overlook is the max horsepower rating of the power module.  I would caution against overloading the max capacity of the unit.

   Doug

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 22, 2004 01:42am | #16

   I noted above that I use Lone Ranger remotes for my DC system.

   But as I read through the posts about micro switches and relays, it occurred to me the most convenient system of all would be where the gates opened for a particular machine when it was turned on, and then closed when the machine was turned off (ideally after a 15-20 second delay so the pipes can clear).

   Is that kind of set-up even possible?

1. 
   bones | May 25, 2004 12:00am | #18

   http://www.rockler.com/tech/24726.pdf

   Here is a link to a system at Rocklers that is for the type of connection were talking about. I have no knowledge to it's quality, but I have been looking at possible setups as well. Has anybody used one of these Ecogates?

2. 
   Knothead05 | May 24, 2004 08:13pm | #17

   Doug, thanks for the URL reference.  I didn't realize that system was still around and that it's been expanded to cover so many options.  X-10 Pro was probably the first "home automation" product to come out, and I have some Radio Shak knock off's that are at least 15 years old and still working - and compatible with the X-10 line!   The only problem is that I spent over an hour browsing their site.  Others may find some solutions there for remote switching, timers, etc. that will be very useful in their shops.

   We still use our original lamp module and the old timer every year for the Christmas tree lights!  Saves crawling on the floor behind the tree.

   The double remote - it can control two 220v, two 110v, or one of each, may be extremely useful in a shop.  On my lathe, for example, I keep a 110v shop vacuum in the system right near the lathe for when I'm roughing out, then I shift over to the big central system for the rest of the turning and sanding, etc.