Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 28, 2007 07:10pm | #1

   Mineral spirits should do the job safely.  Keep at it, it may take awhile.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   highfigh | Sep 28, 2007 07:14pm | #2

   Depending on the finish, mineral spirits and the finest Scotch Brite or steel wool might be needed. Go easy on the pressure, especially on the corners. If the finish is thin/fragile, use an old T shirt.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
3. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 28, 2007 08:47pm | #3

   Wiping down with mineral spirits is not going to harm the finish.  You will need to use lots of rags or paper towels so you aren't just smearing the old wax around but are removing it. 

4. 
   BG | Sep 28, 2007 09:35pm | #4

   Stanford,
   Not sure about Mylands either, but Briwax is specifically designed for this purpose...renewing.

   
   

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   Edited 9/28/2007 2:35 pm ET by BG

1. 
   BruceS | Sep 29, 2007 12:08am | #6

   Briwax is good,  but loaded with toluene and gives me a monster headache.  But I still use it with a good half mask resperator.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

5. 
   forestgirl | Sep 28, 2007 11:42pm | #5

   "There is a book called the Furniture Doctor. I believe the author is George Grotz"  ooooooo, not sure I'd hold that one up as a Bible for restoration.  Anyone else familiar with it???

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   
   

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   Edited 9/29/2007 11:02 am by forestgirl

1. 
   joinerswork | Sep 29, 2007 01:58am | #7

   FG,

   Right on, Grotz is/was an entertaining writer, but a hack.

   Ray

2. 
   9619 | Sep 29, 2007 02:12am | #8

   FG,
   I bought my copy of the Furniture Doctor back in 1968. I read it, and found it useful. At the time, I had no background in woodworking or in antiques. My wife and I never bought any expensive antiques, but we did get a large number of pieces that were made in the early 1900s, and needed work. We still have all of those pieces. I learned by experience, and by asking questions, and reading. I don't remember being offended by anything in that book. I remember enjoying it. I remember it being written in a pleasant, helpful, down-to-Earth way. If you can remember why you didn't like it, I would like to know. I did check out the section on cleaning furniture in the Grotz book, and I did not remember it correctly. It said to use mineral spirits. It said that using water could cloud a shellac or lacquer finish, and would not remove wax. Knots has a number of quite sophisticated folks when it comes to woodwork, and I'd like to hear from any of them who have problems with the Furniture Doctor. My recollection of the book is that it is a nice book to use as a start when you start working with old furniture. Obviously I am not talking about museum quality furniture, which would better be worked by people who have a background in the area. My daughter and one of my sons enjoy old furniture, and I would like to recommend an introductory book on caring for and reparing old furniture. What would be a good alternattive to Grotz's book? Thanks,
   Mel Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 29, 2007 03:32am | #9

   "I did check out the section on cleaning furniture in the Grotz book, and I did not remember it correctly."  In that case, I think it'd be appropriate, even wise and considerate, of you to go back and edit your post above to remove the erroneous information about water and whatever-it-was:

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=37829.9

   I honestly can't remember what turned me off about the Doctor book.  If it works for you, that's great!  I like The Weedend Refinisher by Bruce Johnson, but he's not a guru, by any stretch of the imagination.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 9/28/2007 10:30 pm by forestgirl

   Edited 9/28/2007 10:32 pm by forestgirl

2. 
   joinerswork | Sep 29, 2007 04:11am | #10

   Hi Mel,

   I have  The Conservation and Restoration of  Antique Furniture, Stan Learoyd, also Restoring and Preserving Antiques, Frederic Taubes, and Repairing and Restoring Antique Furniture, John Rodd.  I like Rodd the best, even if he is a Brit ;-)) Good practical suggestions, for a wide range of oft encountered problems, but copyright 1976, so it is well out of print, sadly.  Taubes has a wider range, metal, sculpture et al, not just wood.

   Well, Taubes is 1969, and Learoyd, 1983.  Guess I'm getting old.  Heck Grotz is from the 60's too I betcha.

   Geezin on outta here,

   Ray

   PS Can't find my Furniture Dr, so I can't give an example of why I can't recommend it.  Maybe I gave it to somebody I didn't like...

1. 
   9619 | Sep 29, 2007 06:29am | #11

   Ray,
   Thanks for the suggestions on furniture restoration books. I took the advice of the George Grotz book and used mineral spirits to clean up an old sewing chest for my wife. It had been in our garage for a few years, and in someone else's for a very long time. It doen't have much monetary value, and it is definitely not a piece of fine furniture, but my wife really wants it cleaned up for her sewing room. It was filthy. I used OOOO steel wool and mineral spirits and some old t-shirts, and did a good cleaning. It worked well. So I can recommend this simple method, which George Grotz recommends and which Steve Shoene recommended, at least for the piece that I cleaned. I guess I'll never know why Forestgirl doesn't like the book. She can't remember. I can relate to that. No big deal. This is one of those things that isn't worth a long debate. The outcome just wouldn't be all that important. (Where have I heard that idea in the last day?) I do appreciate having some alternatives to the Grotz book in case others ask me. Thank you.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

3. 
   9619 | Sep 29, 2007 06:56am | #13

   FG,
   I took your advice and deleted my first email, and sent the OP a re-write. Thanks for the suggestion. You might want to think of deleting your message dissing George Grotz's book, unless you can remember why you didn't like it. It really isn't fair to "dis" a person or a book or a thing with no rationale. George just may have a good introductory book. If you ever do remember why you didn't like the book, let me know. It isn't all that important because it is an old book and probably isn't widely distributed anymore. Heck it came out in the early 1960s. But I was taken aback by your negative comment on a book that I remember really liking. Thanks,
   Mel
   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 29, 2007 06:04pm | #16

   Mel, I modified my post, but didn't delete it completely, as then future readers would be totally confused about what the mild kerfluffle is about.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 29, 2007 10:45pm | #17

   FG & modern master #9619,

           Hey , were gonna send you two to your rooms if you don't knock this off .

          just to infuriate all the experts out there my advice is to try a very mild solution of soapy warm water an a cloth first , see how much grunge remains, then use  turps or mineral spirits to complete the job if needed .

               dusty

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 30, 2007 02:49am | #18

   I've used orange oil (Howards??  CAn't remember) on old furniture that's been sitting in a house and gotten all that dust/gunk combination layer on it.  Worked great.  For wax, though, I'd vote for mineral spirits, preferably outside on a dry day.

   Before Stanley pipes in again, yes I (we?) heard ya.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 9/29/2007 7:49 pm by forestgirl

2. 
   BillBrennen | Sep 30, 2007 09:40am | #19

   Another vote for mineral spirits after a wipe with a water-moistened rag or sponge, immediately wiped dry. The water is much more dangerous for the antique furniture than mineral spirits are. The only old finish stripped by mineral spirits is ...wax!Bill

6. 
   9619 | Sep 29, 2007 06:38am | #12

   PCM,
   I deleted my original response to you because I did not remember something I read a long time ago, and I had made a suggestion that is not optimal. I thought I remembered the George Grotz book, Furniture Doctor, as recommending Sal soda as a cleaning agent. I also seconded Steve Shoene's recommendation of using mineral spirits.

   THis evening I found my old copy of the Grotz book and found that he did not recommend Sal Soda, but he recommended mineral spirits. I had an old sewing chest in the garage that my wife wanted me to clean up for her use. She had gotten it from a friend who said that she had gotten it from an antique store about 20 years ago. It was filthy. I used mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool and old t-shirts and it worked well.

   Sorry about my earlier error.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   PCM | Sep 29, 2007 03:51pm | #14

   Thank you all!

   I am going to recommend dampening soft cloths with mineral spirits to the lady who asked me. She is determined, and has an abundance of elbow grease!

   I have "The Complete Book of Furniture Repair and Refinishing" by Ralph Parsons Kinney, 1971, and he says turpentine on a damp cloth to remove wax. Then wash the piece with sal soda and water. Or BLO and turp to remove wax. I also have several other refinishing/finishing books, but this one is the best, if you can find it.

   Has anyone tried turp to remove wax?

    

    

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 29, 2007 04:34pm | #15

   Turpentine is a solvent for wax. It's been supplanted by petroleum products like mineral spirits and naphtha.In the shop I used to be involved with we "rehabbed" lots of old (non-antique) furniture. In most cases we started with mineral spirits applied with a cloth and almost immediately wiped dry. Did it at least twice. Then after letting it dry, we assessed the surface. If it still had some gunk on it we would use 4/0 bronze wool and mineral spirits and go over the whole surface rubbing lightly with the grain. This usually dulled the surface slightly. Next, we might try a restoration wax applied with the 4/0 bronze wool. This frequently was the end of the job. We used bronze wool as it was much more consistent than hardware store steel wool which frequently scratched the surface. Today we would probably use grey or white scotchbrite.If the item came in with lots of dust on it, we would start with a vacuuming followed by using a mild solution of TSP applied with a sponge and immediately wiped dry.If after getting it clean it looked like some rehabbing of the finish was required, we would test the existing finish to determine what it was. It was mostly lacquer. With lacquer we would frequently just pad on some shellac and it was good to go. At other times, we would just spray lacquer thinner and retarder to re-constitute the lacquer finish. Sometimes we would scuff sand and spray a couple of more coats of lacquer. Depended what the customer wanted and could budget.So, rehabbing furniture takes some knowledge and experience.Howie.........