Replies

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Feb 09, 2005 02:14am | #1

   best plan is to cut the trees in the spring and the bark will peel right off - - since that doesn't apply here,  I don't know of an alternative to a drawknife - - any power tool will not discriminate and scar the wood - - drawknife will be tough to use on dried wood - good luck...

   "there's enough for everyone"
1. 
   jwickham | Feb 09, 2005 05:15am | #3

   Thanks -- yes I hear what you are saying about cutting in the springtime -- but the only problem with that is that White Ash likes to stain in warmer weather...

   So I have these 8/4" boards with the bark FIRMLY attached...

   How about using some kind of a handheld power tool to "rough-off" the outer bark -- and then following up with the drawknife to do the final shaping?

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Feb 09, 2005 05:30pm | #6

   How about using some kind of a handheld power tool to "rough-off" the outer bark

   I don't know of any power tool that would discriminate between bark and wood - Uncle Duncs suggestion of a power washer comes as close as anything - - I have a 'Lancelot' - chainsaw chain wheel on a hand grinder - that I use for certain purposes surrounding bid wood,  but I wouldn't be able to keep it contained just to the bark...

   I've was on a project last month where I was doing what you propose - tight bark was a bit tough,  but by working for 20 minutes then working something else for a break,  the spudding job eventually yeiled...

   one thing,  drawknives come in different weights - for tough bark,  I used my heavy one,  with the wide blade,  for the roughing,  and the lighter  one to tidy up..."there's enough for everyone"

   
2. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 09, 2005 04:42am | #2

   Power washer.

3. 
   cowtown | Feb 09, 2005 07:57am | #4

   there is a tool called a "bark spud" about three inches wide -which is essentially a dull and round edged slick. It's purpose is for removing bark, maybe not on cut boards, but rather on logs. Handle is on the long side, maybe a couple of feet, with a knobbish end.

   It's really just a blunt piece of steel. You could probably use an old car spring to make yer own.

   If you wanna preserve the waney edge, neither a power planer or a sharp drawknive will facilitate keeping the edge wood intact.They just wanna cut, and what you wanna do is cleave....

   A really dull drawknive may be usable, it should follow the edge without digging into the wood given a little patience applied to the handles.

   A few hundred BF of 8/4 really ain't that much edge to clean off, just a good workout.

   Eric
   in Calgary

4. 
   AlanTurner | Feb 09, 2005 01:00pm | #5

   For a cherry shelf commission I had this issue, but I don't think that my bark was agttached as tight as you describe yours being attached. I used a very dull chisel, one out of the rust bucket, and gently pried the bark off. Got most of it, but some tight spots were left. I did not goof with them, for fear of changing the shape of the edge. These were shelves from a flitch, and the curve of the tree was consistent up the set of 3 shelves. Then, to get a finished edge, without reshaping the wane, I used a 6" ROS with a 1/2" foam backer, and the abranet abrasive. Much dust, but a smooth and not reshaped edge

   Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com