Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 22, 2007 01:15am | #1

   It's likely that the stain down in the pores is pigment based so that bleaches won't affect it.  I suppose that you can sand the stained pores away, but that's a lot of sanding.  Dark "expresso" finishes are "in" these days. 

1. 
   coralia | Jun 22, 2007 04:23pm | #3

   Thank you for your reply. I don't actually want to do that much sanding as I think it will affect the final look, A dark expresso sounds great. Do you have any recommendations re: oil, gel or other type of stain? Oh, and, the methodology to obtain the look. Thanks and hopefully, I'm not asking too much. carole

2. 
   Gretchen | Jun 22, 2007 03:34pm | #2

   It sounds like you have a flame oak that was much revered in that day.

   What does it look like when you wipe it down with mineral spirits? That is what it will be with a clear finish. As Steve says, probably nothing is going to help, although you could try a bleach. You do not want to sand it--please.

   Did you try a brass brush in the pores when you did the stripping?
   On the Wood Magazine board Jim Kull recommended using sal soda to "bubble" paint out of the pores of oak. It might be worth a try.

   Otherwise, after the mineral spirits test for a clear finish, you can see how much stain (if any) you may want to put on.  It is truly the "look" of that era, and afficianados will recognize it.  And as Steve also said, espresso is "in"--DDIL' s house is a great testimony to that!

   Gretchen
1. 
   coralia | Jun 22, 2007 06:39pm | #4

   Thanks for the info, but I have more questiions. First, won't a brass brush leave marks? What is "sal soda"?

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 22, 2007 08:54pm | #5

   coralia ,

              A stiff bristled scrub brush and maybe even a tooth brush can be used to clean down deep in the grain .

                 good    luck            dusty

2. 
   Gretchen | Jun 23, 2007 05:26pm | #8

   These are a type of brush used just for this. They don't leave a mark, but as the other poster said, a very stiff bristle brush will help too--anything to get into the deep pore.

   I'll have to look up sal soda--I could never remember it when Jim posted it either!!  But it probably won't work on this in the same way it might on paint. I was hoping I could find it on the supermarket aisle, but I think not.

   Gretchen

    

   Pure sodium carbonate is a white, odorless powder that absorbs moisture from the air, has an alkaline taste, and forms a strongly alkaline water solution. It is one of the most basic industrial chemicals. Sodium carbonate decahydrate, Na2CO3·10H2O, is a colorless, transparent crystalline compound commonly called sal soda or washing soda. Because seaweed ashes were an early source of sodium carbonate, it is often called soda ash or, simply, soda.

   Edited 6/23/2007 10:30 am ET by Gretchen

3. 
   PeteBradley | Jun 23, 2007 04:12am | #6

   Most likely it was fumed or dyed, which will not be removed by stripper. In theory you could bleach it, but I doubt you'd like the results. As others have suggested, I'd consider it well cleaned and topcoat it.

   Pete

4. 
   BruceT999 | Jun 23, 2007 07:09am | #7

   Why not bury the too-dark stain in the deep grain areas with a paste wood filler of whatever color you want the darkest areas to be. After it sets up a bit, you wipe off the excess - across the grain of course - with burlap and let it dry overnight. Sand lightly to clean up the light areas and then stain the piece.

   The bonus with paste wood filler is that you won't have to apply as many coats of clear topcoat to achieve a smooth surface. The down side is that you have to allow a longer time for it to dry before you can apply your clear topcoat.

   BruceT
5. 
   user-196729 | Jun 23, 2007 08:38pm | #9

   Rather than use any more stripper, or brass brush, try using a cabinet scraper  to get down to an even top.  As with all older furniture, you want to retain some of the patena of the piece.  Using a cabinet scraper very lightly, you will retain the patena and improve the surface without sanding marks or chemical residue.  Give it a try before going to extremes, it may just be what you are looking for, and still retain the natural beauty of the wood.

1. 
   domermatt | Jun 25, 2007 12:05am | #10

   You might want to try oxalic acid to bleach the oak.  I used it on some outdoor furniture and was happy with the results.  The color was a little uneven after bleaching, but once the wood was restained everything evened out very nicely.

   Good luck.

    When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka