Replies

1. 
   silver77 | Apr 27, 2005 05:10pm | #1

   we use citristrip-environmentally friendly and effective...let it do it's thing, scrape off, wash with tsp substitute-let dry-sand ...back to square 1 duke-one.

   available from leevalley.com

   silver 

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Apr 29, 2005 12:28am | #2

   A paint and varnish remover will soften the poly. It will speed the process if you scuff sand the poly with 80 grit paper so the stripper can get a better "bite."

   Stripper that contains methylene chloride will work the fastest. Work in a well ventialted area. I have some info on stripping at this link that may be a help - http://www.refinishwizard.com/stripping.htm

   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   dukeone | May 01, 2005 03:02am | #4

   Thanks, all: I like the idea of scuff sanding to speed the process, I've also checked out that website.
   KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

3. 
   exhibitor | Apr 29, 2005 01:31am | #3

   Poly over dewaxed shellac only.  Regular varnish will cover over waxed shellac.

4. 
   Maret | May 01, 2005 03:21am | #5

   A heat gun works best, in my experience. I do not have a commercial shop, and am working in my home so I do not want fumes or poisons hanging around. A heat gun softens the poly finish quickly and lets you scrape it off. It makes no stink and no gloopy mess.

   You'll need a fairly stiff-bladed 3-4 inch spackling knife to scrape with. Don't try to use a scraper that you pull toward yourself. You need to work away from yourself with a heat gun. Wear leather gloves, and apply little pressure as you scrape.

   The shellac will not all come off. When you get down to what looks like bare wood with the heat gun, there's still going to be some shellac down in the grain. Shellac is easy to sand, and that's what I do, but any good paint/varnish remover will lift most of the shellac out of the grain, and you will be back to bare wood with little mess. Almost. DO NOT use alcohol to soften and remove the shellac. It drives the stuff down into the grain and, on mahogany, you'll be sanding for the rest of your life.

1. 
   silver77 | May 01, 2005 05:26pm | #6

   A good Sunday morning to you...

   Interesting...more than 1 way to skin a cat...

   never would have tried a heat gun on pu but when you find something that works,you tend to stick to it...inclination, motivation, style is what I say...

   Your inclined to do or try a certain way

   This motovates you to get organized and do it

   based on your style /mode operatis

   I enjoy the forum because of the new perspectives...  

   in our experience/style a heat gun works best for multiple layers of old paint but we'll try on

   poly next time.

   cheers,

   silver

1. 
   Maret | May 02, 2005 01:39am | #7

   I hope it works for you.I forgot to include in my message that you must be very careful not to gouge the wood when scraping. Poly is not as thick as paint, and so doesn't come up as obviously.Also, I made the mistake of trying to use the heat gun on a walnut burl veneer, and bubbled it up! Don't recommend you do that!I've never had a problem on solid wood, except getting in a hurry and gouging it.