Replies

1. 
   alfie | Feb 10, 2005 05:11pm | #1

   Just a couple of weeks back I went through the same thing. Based on opinions here as well as further research, the better choices are Kerosene or Mineral spirits. I used the latter simply because I had it at hand. After clean up of that protective coating, important to coat it right away with a suitable material to prevent rusting. I have used for TopCote for many years, and I am happy with that and continue to use it. Others use other materials.

   My inclination would be to remove the protective coating, probably "Cosmoline", from every where because otherwise wood dust and chips will stick to it. However it will be interesting to see what others have to say. If you do remove it, please consider coating those with the TopCote or equivalent. In my case the other surfaces appear to have paint on them, although it is half-hearted and they missed a lot of areas altogether.

   I used WD40 for years for such applications. However all my cast iron surfaces look about what people siad they will look if you used WD40, which is not recommended for this application. Hope this helps.

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 10, 2005 06:06pm | #2

   The least expensive and easiest product to use for clean up is mineral spirits (paint thinner) most of us have some in the shop for many purposes. I would try to clean all of the cosmoline off. The paint thinner won't hurt painted surfaces and the excess will evaporate unlike kerosine. There are many top coat products available, some have undesirable effects. Since they cost a bit of money, many of us use a paste wax for regular maintenance of machine surfaces. Keeping the surface free of dust, which will attract moisture, and not leaving pieces of lumber laying on tops will do a lot to prevent rust. Dispose of rags soaked with the cosmoline properly, I don't know if it's combustible but there is no sense in taking a chance.

   WD 40 actually absorbs moisture, making it a poor choice for engine storage. I still use it for the blade adjustment controls on my table saw. If your tools sit in an unheated shop and stand idle for long periods you may want to consider Drycote as a protectant. Leaving cosmoline on under surfaces will just attract dust and eventually stain surfaces. Watch your fingers on those joiner blades.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   Marty | Feb 10, 2005 06:16pm | #3

   Fred, I just got my new table saw and bandsaw running. Mineral spirits worked the best for me.  Citrus-based cleaners required more elbow grease.  Afterwars, I sprayed with Boeshield T9, let it dry and applied a coat of Minwax.  When I find that wood does not slide as well, I repeat the mineral spirits and Minwax.

   Hope this helps.  Good luck!

   Marty

4. 
   CharlieP | Feb 10, 2005 08:02pm | #4

   I was advised to use Kerosene, which worked very well (dump some in a tin can and use an old paint brush).  Diesel fuel is cheaper and is supposed to work as well. 

   I agree with the recommendations to get it all clean, and immediately wax the surfaces. 

   ________________________
   Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texas
   http://www.plesums.com/wood

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 10, 2005 09:42pm | #5

   The preferred solvent is kerosene. It rapidly cuts the cosmoline and leaves a slight oily residue that inhibits rust. #2 diesel fuel will work but leaves more oil and has a stronger odor.

   Mineral spirits is the next distillation above kerosene and will work well but doesn't leave the oil protective residue. But, no big deal.

   WD40 is the high priced choice. WD40 is petroleum distillation somewhere between kerosene and mineral spirits. I believe it contains a wax also. The intent of WD40 is as a water dispersant (the "WD" in WD40). It gets between the water and the metal driving the water away. However, because it is a petroleum distallate, it will work to remove the cosmoline.

   Howie.........
6. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 11, 2005 07:34pm | #6

   How about gloves and OLD RAGS!