Replies

1. 
   Peter36 | Jan 26, 2005 01:35am | #1

   This does not get into tight places but Klingspore makes a product called Sandflex. They are little abrasive blocks that remove rust. Lie-Nielsen uses them at there factory [ so I am told ]

2. 
   Midnight | Jan 27, 2005 02:26am | #2

   I de-rusted my dad's old #4 with some Scochbrite, the red stuff is ideal for taking off the first signs of it, green for a more agressive cut. It can be cut or ripped down to smaller sizes to work into nuiks an crannies.... For larger areas that need to be maintained flat, I glued some surplus sanding belts to a scrap piece of kitchen worktop, 3 different grades in all to restore and flatten at the same time..

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

3. 
   BrentS | Jan 27, 2005 03:18am | #3

   Hi,

    You could use electrolysis to get the rust off.It willget into every nook and cranny of the plane.I've used it on motorcycle parts and it worked great.I've seen articles in woodworking mags and in books but can't remember where.I'm sure if you search the word on knots or just on the web you'll get all the info you need.

                                                                    Brent

4. 
   Bepperb | Jan 29, 2005 12:48am | #4

   Stoutman,

   If it's anything more than the lightest surface rust, you're probably going to want to go with electrolysis to remove the rust.  I'm in the middle of restoring a set of Bailey planes this way.  There is a good article on it here:

   http://web.archive.org/web/20020817233726/users.interconnect.net/nlindsey/rusty2l/electrolysis/electrolysis.htm

   If you already own a car battery charger this is the way to go.  I have a two dollar plastic storage box, a box of baking soda and the end of a hamburger flipper.  That's really all you need.  With my little 10 amp charger it will pull even pitted rust from an entire #5 in an hour.  It leaves a black residue that comes right off with synthetic or regular steel wool.

   One benefit is that you'll remove less japanning or paint.  One downside is that you have to take the whole plane apart to do it.  If you have any questions, or want pictures, let me know.

    

5. 
   MAVERIK | Jan 31, 2005 02:58am | #5

   Hello!Fine sand paper and kerozene.Good luck!

6. 
   Claude | Feb 10, 2005 06:37am | #6

   i concur:  i've had great luck w/180 or 220 wet/dry and some WD-40(it was handy), don't worrry too much about the sole, as you're going to have to lap it flat anyway.  an old tooth brush should do fine on the adjustment wheel, and threads (take the whole thing apart).  depending on how you intend to use the planes, you might well want to lap the "wings" (sides) flat and square also, although i haven't had to do this myself.

   when you lap the sole, keep the iron in the plane and retract it up past the sole, so you aren't planning your lapping plate/sandpaper. HAVE FUN!