I have a built-in shelving project I’m making with maple plywood. Upon removing the bar code sticker from the back panel, the adhesive goo remains, and it’s dead center on a panel that I can’t work around. I plan to finish this with a water base poly, but first need to remove the dark unsightly goo.
Is this a job for mineral spirits, goo gone, naptha, something else? If all else fails I could place a cool decorative emblem over that spot to hide it and make it look part of the design!
Thanks, dc
Replies
The glue they use must be made of Kryptonite! The only thing I've found that will remove it is 3M adhesive remover, available at automotive parts stores. Read the can and use plenty of ventilation.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks, I'll give it a try!
Naptha dissolved sticker goo very readily. The tricky part is to get it all wiped off once it is dissolved, before the naptha all evaporates and leaves a thin film of sticker goo over a bigger area.
Any liquid nonpolar compound should dissolve it. If it were on a new enameled stove, I'd suggest some diesel fuel. Since it is wood, I'd suggest a non oily very volitile liquid such as naptha, Energine, or gasoline, being careful to wipe it off with a clean rag or paper towel as it dissolves before it works into the grain. Don't use carbon tet or benzene as I think they may be carcinogenic. I've not had the occasion to do this, but I think it would work.
Thank you. I'll scrape and use naptha.
David: I've had no problems just using a scraper. It takes a few passes and some peeling the junk off the card, but works for me - and no solvents required. I will say I've only used shellac and poly over the top, never a water based yet.
W.
Judicious use of a hot-air gun and maybe a bit of thinner on a rag (not while the gun is on).
My best results have been with MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone) a very aggressive solvent. Bad vapors; available at my local hardware store, so not an exotic.
I would try applying some on a test piece to see if there is any adverse effect on the WB poly.
Jerry
I have used a razor blade in a scraping motion or a card scraper. This way you get a large majority of the sticker and adhesive off before sppreading it around with a solvent. Works well. I've always been curious to why manufacturers insist on putting ulta-stick stickers on the most noticed part of plywood and solid wood doors. I can just imagine the worker putting the sticker on while thinking, "hahahaha, the sucker who buys this piece is going to have a helluva time with this one Fred... hahahaha." Anyways, hope this helps, if not, the venting at least helped me:)
Thanks...I'll scrape and then use naptha if needed.
FYI. MEK causes cancer and is absorbed through the skin. Don't breathe and wear protective gloves.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
I agree. It is potent stuff - and I erred in not mentioning gloves. Forget latex or vinyl. They disappear. Nitrile seems to hold up.Thanks again.Jerry
Are you telling me not to breathe while I'm wearing gloves? Ha! I know what you mean.
I've tried all kinds of ways to remove stickers including some mentioned in this thread. I finally gave up after carefully scraping, wiping with paint thinner, and sanding a board that had a sticker on it. It looked great until I put on the stain and the sticker shape "ghosted" thru. Now, I just make sure that stickers are on the "bad" side of the board or in a place that I can cut away as scrap. If I can't cut it away or keep it hidden, I don't buy that board.
I complained once to a Home Depot manager about the stickers on their hardwood. He told me that HD didn't put them on - they came that way from the distributor.
With our quicker, faster, stupider, work force, I am sure they are never going to turn back the clock on ruining our lumber. I have tried everything imaginable to remove the evidence of the sticker but I have never figured out the magic procedure. The only way that works for me is to cut out the spot and throw it away. All other attempts show up in the finish. Fortunately for me I only have to deal with stickers on plywood because I mill most of my stick lumber from rough sawn. If someone ever comes up with a solution I wish they would publish it somewhere!
Buy from "real" lumber dealer, one that supplies cabinet makers. Disadvantage: lumber dealers usually are not as accessible as big box home stores. Advantage: quality and no stickers (there may be exceptions). Sheet goods are not cupped, bowed and twisted. Boards in 8/4 and 4/4 are readily available, straight one edge. Example of a dealer I use: https://metrohardwoods.com, but they are all over the country. One even sells online with freight delivery to your shop.
The adhesive used on the sticker is usually rubber based. I use rubber cement thinner, also known as Bestine, and it works very well. It may take a minute or two to soak through the sticker but when it gets to the adhesive the sticker remnants just wipe off. You can find it in any art store.
Laquer thinner or acetone take it right off.
Whoa...lighter fluid is foolproof. Regular Zippo lighter, lighter fluid.
Mikaol
Damn zombies are everywhere.
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