Replies

1. 
   LeeEschen | Nov 12, 2002 07:10am | #1

   Acetone!

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon

   On the Redwood Highway

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 12, 2002 08:08am | #2

   DS

      Lee nailed with Acetone. Note, look at the ingredients of common fingernail polish. Acetone. Now, if you are going to keep fingernail polish in the shop as I do: follow these instructions. Place a large piece of masking tape over the label that says fingernail polish. Take a black magic marker and mark it Macho Super Glue Remover!! You are now ready for action.. ha..ha..grin<>

   Good Luck..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   qldwoodie | Nov 13, 2002 12:48am | #3

   Sarge, - can't expect a real macho man to know the difference (:-), but I think you meant nail polish REMOVER.  Not much point in adding more material to what you're wanting to remove................

   IW

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 13, 2002 07:21am | #4

   IW

      Thanks for the clarification. Ha... Guess I'm out of my league on the nail polish issue. Will leave to the real experts in the future. Grin<>

   Have a great evening.

   sarge..jt

1. 
   LeeEschen | Nov 13, 2002 08:16am | #5

   How much do you pay for a tiny bottle of fingernail polish remover?

   I buy a gallon can of acetone at any hardware store for few dollars. Or a quart for about a dollar. It's an excellent degreaser, too, and safer than laquer thinner for degreasing, but it's no sub for LT for actually thinning laquer.

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon

   On the Redwood Highway

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 13, 2002 09:17am | #6

   Lee

      Not even a clue. Let's say I borrowed a bottle from my wifes stash. he... I have never used for a degreaser. My get a gallon as I have that new jointer almost here as you know. Never needed that much. Anything left over I  can funnel into my wifes and 88 yr. old moms bottles. Keep them wondering why their bottles never run out. Ha....

      Thanks for the tip on de-greaser. Will come in handy!

   Evening... late EST

   sarge..jt

2. 
   tailsorpins | Nov 13, 2002 11:20pm | #7

   Acetone is highly volatile, use with extreme care.  Cosmetic polish remover used to be called "oily fingernail polish remover", as it had additives that would both minimize the dehydration of flesh and lower the potential of flashing when a user chose to smoke while using it.  Thus, it might not be your best source if you want to re-bond those surfaces.  I'd spring for a quart of acetone for less than an 8 oz bottle of the other material. 

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 14, 2002 09:41am | #8

      Thanks. I wondered if there were other ingredients that came into play. I don't normally use it, but had a situation recentlly that did require clean up on super glue. Sort of a field expedient in my case. It worked.

      Will probaly spring for the gallon as do have a new jointer arriving tomorrow and Lee mentioned the de-greasing qualities.

   Have a good evening..

   sarge..jt

4. 
   tailsorpins | Nov 15, 2002 03:50am | #9

   Hello!

   IMHO, acetone is too aggressive for use as a simple degreaser, and it will evaporate much too fast to serve you well.  Ranking liguid degreasers by power, low to very high: soap & water, citris solvents, trisodium phosphate (TSP), mineral spirits, naptha, lacquer thinner, acetone (there are others, like benzine which are specific, but much too unsafe for the unpracticed); I'd never degrease with anything stronger than naptha, and would usually start with mineral spirits.  Those more active will soften and remove completely any paint or protective coating that you should leave in place if you are restoring a tool.  YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MUCH VENTILATION once you go beyond soap & water.  Leave those aggressive solvents for the specialty tasks they were formulated for.  Good Luck.

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 15, 2002 06:43am | #10

   TS

      Thanks. I've always used mineral spirits. Will stick with it. Good tip on the possible paint problem with acetone. Have plenty of ventilation my shop. Use the gutted rear of an old mini-van for those special situations anyway. Gets it out of the shop al-together so I can nap. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

6. 
   jase | Nov 15, 2002 08:50am | #11

   We use a lot of contact cement at work. Acetone is our primary solvent but we've found that the contact cement thinner makes a much better degreaser.Jase--Is there a better way?

7. 
   billballeza | Nov 16, 2002 02:18am | #12

   Sarge.. okay, we know you're busy with your new jointer.. but how's about sharing? Got it uncrated and assembled yet?

   bill

   Edited 11/15/2002 6:21:29 PM ET by bill

8. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 16, 2002 04:49am | #14

   bill

      Not yet. Hope to to-nite late. Should be up and running by Sunday. Already considering a few modifications. Height and adding a port to the dust chute. Maybe a dampner to the base. I can't seem to leave anything the way it is. Ha....

      With any luck, pictures within the next few days...

   sarge..jt

9. 
   billballeza | Nov 16, 2002 05:38am | #15

   Sarge.. great! Have fun this weekend.

3. 
   AE4MR | Nov 16, 2002 03:11am | #13

   Disolving glue with acetone is not really fine woodworking!

   Probably a better idea rather then trying to disolve the super glue (and whatever finish it already has) using acetone is to dismattle the joint (I assume it has or is failing) remove the glue with a chisle or other edge tool and re-glue the joint.

   This way your damage to the finish will probably be minor and the repair should last longer then the super glue did.  AND you can call it fine woodworking!

1. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 16, 2002 05:57am | #16

   >> Disolving glue with acetone is not really fine woodworking!

   Oh, really? And why is that? Is it because superglue is not fine woodworking? Or is it something about acetone in particular? Or maybe dissolving things. Would dissolving lacquer with lacquer thinner be fine woodworking? How about dissolving hide glue with water? Or dissolving shellac with alcohol?

   Maybe I missed something in the original message. Did it say something like "What's the best way to dissolve superglue, if it's OK for fine woodworkers to want to do that?" Or maybe I missed your earlier post, the one that described your qualification to say what is or is not fine woodworking, without any mention of what criteria you apply (other than not dissolving superglue with acetone).

   Or did you read a bunch of posts and decide we don't have enough people here posting unqualified and unsupported, but nevertheless quite firm, statements of what is or is not fine woodworking? Actually, I don't see that many such statements here myself, but I never felt like the lack needed to be remedied.

1. 
   AE4MR | Nov 16, 2002 07:06pm | #17

   WOW, I guess I hit some sort of nerve with you Uncle Dunc!  I simply was offering an alternative solution with a bit of humor.

   What is fine woodworking you ask?

   It is something you are proud of.  It really is as simple as that.

   I loved the question awhile back that asked how the old timers did what was obviously a long and difficult process and got an answer "They did not have the internet to distract them".

   I can tell you one other thing that is not fine woodworking.

   It is sending unfriendly posts to someone that has just offered his first post without taking the time to see if he or she may indeed be a worthwhile contributor to these discussions.

   Thanks for reminding me I really do not need the distraction either.  You saw my first post, well now you have seen my last as well.