Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Mar 17, 2006 01:00pm | #1

   Try tinting the shellac with dye and carefully brushing it on, in such a way as to blend the colors. Tinting shellac can be great way to proceed, but it has to be done carefully in order to avoid lap marks. I would add some Shellac Wet from Homestead Finishing, to slow the set time of the shellac. Also use very thin shellac, and build the color slowly.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   BilWil | Mar 17, 2006 06:28pm | #2

   I agree, tinted shellac is a real life saver in these situations.

2. 
   Floss | Mar 19, 2006 05:28am | #3

   Tom,

   You may be able to do it with tinted shellac, however you will need an alcohol soluble dye. I use alcohol dyes and tinted shellac a lot for repairs. It works well but takes practice. If you apply too much too fast you can soften up the surrounding area and have some color migration which will make the patch look like a water stain with a light center and all the color at the edges.

   It sounds as if the snading did not remove all of the finish from the area and the water stain could not penetrate all the way. You may be able to tint the surrounding area using utc's(universal tinting colorants) mixed with a binder such as varnish or acrylic sealer. You may also use artist oil colors, or japan colors and varnish , I like to use quick set gold size. Mix the oil color and varnish then wipe on the area let it set up and finish over top. This is more of a glazing technique but works well for situations such as yours where if you use a dye that will soften the original finish then you may cause more work for yourself.

   If you do use tinted shellac I suggest practicing with a rag and using that to pad on the color. You will have a little more control and don't need to be too concerned about lap marks. Then when you are satisfied with the color you can pad over the repair with clear shellac to blend the repair and rub out to the appropriate sheen.

   Lastly, if you go the tinted shellac route you also have to be careful not to rub through the color as well which can be a real pain . Although if you muck it up too bad it is always easy to undo.

   Good luck.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
3. 
   EarlKelly | Mar 22, 2006 02:22am | #4

   Tom,

   To effect a repair on the area sanded, everything will hinge on the type of finish presently on the piece. If the piece has a factory finish, as in multi step with glazes, it will be much easier. But if it's a custom piece with just a stain or dye and finish it gets much harder to match the repaired area.

   If you're working on a leg or small piece, sometimes it's very effective to completely redo the entire leg or small piece rather than try to blend in the repaired area. But if the repair is in an area that has to be blended, look for the color variations in the wood and try to mimic those using a combination of a Padding shellac and or brushes to simulate grain and or keep the color in a confined area. Always start with the lightest color and work towards the darker building and overlaying color to get the depth required. If you get Alcohol aniline dyes and or touchup powders from Mohawk Finishing, the powder gives you more control than a liquid, allowing you to mix it as light or heavy as needed. Beware the colors are very strong.

   If you're happy with your dyed repair you may need to brush in some color on the edges to help blend to the existing finish. Sable artist brushes are the best to use for that. Before touching your brush to the work check it on a white piece of paper for strength and correctness of color. A white plastic lid is ideal for mixing color on.

   One more tip, a light or dark area going in a straight line across a board is much more obvious than an angled line. The worst repairs and most difficult I ever had to do were cross grain scratches in a table top, especially if they were deep and needed burning in.

   Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
1. 
   Toucan | Mar 22, 2006 05:13am | #5

   Thanks for the help, it seems that patience and alcohol based dyes are the answer, they will allow me to blend with what I think is a French polish, (at least it dissolves easily with methyl hydrate) along with patience and more patience.  The entire chair is hand cut and turned.  I don't want to change any more than necessary as I think the chair is well over 100 years old. 

   I'll be smarter when I'm finished.

   Tom