Replies

1. 
   ian | Jul 17, 2003 03:29pm | #1

   Rabbet the entire edge and inlay a strip of contrasting wood. 
   idea lifted from Fixing & Avoiding Woodworking Mistakes   Sandor Nagyszalanczy   Taunton 1995

1. 
   BG | Jul 17, 2003 07:01pm | #4

   Ian,

   I like the idea.  However, this is an Arts and Crafts piece (kinda) and the splinter is in about a half inch from the edge...it ends just below the two dowels that secure the tennon in the mortice.   Do you think it would look to stupid to run two or three flutes about 3/8" deep (3" or so long) from below the dowels to the floor on each leg? thanks

1. 
   ian | Jul 18, 2003 04:01pm | #11

   BG

   you and/or you client are the best judge of what looks OK.  Your repair options basicly fall into two categories - glue the splinter back on and hope it disappears after sanding and finishing or patch the area.  If you patch you can either go for a highlight - say a piece of veneer or an epoxy inlay that you place on every leg so the "repair" looks like a feature of the design or that can try and match the grain with similar wood.

   Ian

2. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 17, 2003 03:30pm | #2

   What I do is open the crack and cram epoxy into the opening and then clamp lightly, not trying to squeeze the epoxy out. Never that this method fail.

1. 
   BG | Jul 17, 2003 07:06pm | #5

   boatman,

   I did buy some epoxy recently but have never used it before.  Does it dry clear? this splinter is left center of the 2 1/2" leg so i need to be able to sand and hopefully make it disappear..is this your experience?  thanks

3. 
   Kell | Jul 17, 2003 03:31pm | #3

   When you say you glued it, how did you clamp it?  Might try to inject some glue behind the splinter and then clamp a flat piece of wood that's been waxed, to avoid sticking, over top of it to hold it til the glue dries.

   If that doesn't work, I like ian's idea.

   Kell

1. 
   BG | Jul 17, 2003 07:08pm | #6

   Kell,

   I did not clamp it....I was not prepared with a piece of wood that had been waxed.  I decided to post this question before i did any more damage...and I'm getting some good ideas. thanks

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 17, 2003 11:55pm | #7

   I usually use wide masking tape to "clamp" a glued sliver. Anything that will hold it in so that the glue can bond the sliver to the remainder of the leg will work. I usually just use regular yellow wood glue. Although if the space isn't very wide I sometimes use Super Glue that's rated for use on wood. Either way, I prefer masking tape just because it's easy and also because that's how I was taught to do it on small jobs. If the crack or sliver is significant... or the dimensions are critical, then I'll use a block of wood over the masking tape and use some sort of mechanical clamp on it. Let it dry overnight before removing the clamp if you use yellow glue or anything similiar.

   Regards,

   Kevin

4. 
   Lilshaver | Jul 18, 2003 12:25am | #8

   Use the super thin super glue. Clamp it with a block of wood that is protected with a piece of wax paper to keep the block from sticking to the glue should it seep out. This will work if the piece is finished or not.

   The method also works to repair loose veneer.

5. 
   ron61 | Jul 18, 2003 12:38am | #9

   Wood glue will work you are not getting enough in the crack-

    If you put glue on the crack and rub it in a circular motion with your finger it will force the glue in the crack- do this until you fill the crack clamp it up.

   This has always worked well for me
1. 
   BG | Jul 18, 2003 02:15am | #10

   All,

   Thanks for all the thoughtful comments...the glue I put of earlier did work.  I had used the wellbond (sp?) and rubed it in fairly well...initially it stuck out but when i went down stairs it had sealed up fairly well.  Wellbond drys clear, so after a bit of sanding and stain the splinter has been covered up fairly well.