I’ve another repair project. This involves a cherry dropleaf table bought at Ft. Huachuca’s Thrift Store. It has several problems, but each can be classified in four categories:
First, the leaves are badly cupped, measuring .150 on a 17-inch wide leaf. How do I solve this problem? Is there a way to get the leaves flat again without simply planing the wood until it’s flat (which will make the leaves just 1/2-inch thick)?
Second, someone tried to get the leaves to reach the 90 degree angle by incorrectly placing the hinges with the barrel facing the air, even though the hinges plainly showed which side was to be used by the flathead screws. He used bolts to secure gate leg hinges where they meet the frame. For the hinge side of the leaf, he used over-length screws–which he removed and ground to fit before reinserting. Furthermore, the lone replacement hinge wasn’t designed for the object, but simply was a bright brass hinge that swings 180 degrees instead of 90. Also, all hinge areas haven’t much meat left.
Third, there are splits where the hinges meet the gate legs. Plus, there are other splits, mostly in the rails.
Fourth, whoever last finished the top evidently used a belt sander. I can feel the dips as I lightly run the palm of my hand across the top. Any hope there or should I just live with it?
I plan to replace the hinges (which are bent and twisted) with new ones. I have a source for those, so getting the hinges, along with instructions for correctly installing them, isn’t a problem.
I feel I’m out of my depth on this project, so thanks for any counsel you can offer.
Lynn Tilton
Hereford, AZ.
Replies
Dear Lynn,
It sounds like your table may have been built by an amateur to start with and and an inept one at that. A tough decision here may be to decide if it is worth repairing. Some degree of success in straightening warped boards can be achieved by removing all finish then laying the warped side down (it would rock on the bench like a chair rocker and wetting the top surface. It is usually better if you add about 25% alcohol to the water. Sometimes putting a wet towel on it as well and steaming with a household iron helps. You usually want it to warp a bit the other way. Let it dry and see what happens.
A second method is to run some saw kerfs about 2/3rds of the way through (from the bottom side). Your now clamp the lief flat and glue appropiately sized strips in the kerfs. This is a lot of work and hard to do without it showing.
Once flat, by whatever method, apply finish to both sides. If only one side was finished originally, this may be the reason for the warping. If this is the case the water / steam option may work well.
Water thin super glue may help to seal and hide the checking. Your success at hiding the checks with finish will be problematic. They may always show.
The uneven top may be resurfaced by hand planing or sanding, but your chances of taking much off and not effecting the rule joint between the drop leafs and the main top are problematic.
Replacing all hardware is wise. Attached is a drawing I made some years ago of how to correctly install a drop leaf hinge.
With best regards,
Ernie Conover
Edited 7/26/2007 9:16 pm ET by ErnieConover
Edited 7/26/2007 9:17 pm ET by ErnieConover
For some reason the file did not attach firs time so here it is.
With best wishes,
Ernie Conover
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled