Replies

1. 
   oldhand | Jun 17, 2009 11:19pm | #1

   I have built several exterior doors with a router morticed depth of 2", making the floating tenon about 3 7/8" long. I usually use 2 or 3 per joint rather than one wide tenon.

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1. 
   woodworker57 | Jun 18, 2009 02:41am | #2

   That sounds good, as I am sitting at 2" in depth right now.  I am curious as to why the multiple tenons per mortise instead of one large one.  Just curious, as I have not done this before, just seen it on Norm.  Thanks for the info Oldhand.   WW--57

1. 
   oldhand | Jun 18, 2009 04:20am | #3

   Multiple tenons are more stable, think about the shrinkage in a wide board vs. a narrow one. The tenons are seperated by unmortised sections on the rail and stile. If you cut the mortises with a spiral bit you need to round over the tenon sides but you probably know that.Be advised that all of the doors I mention are built from scratch with square sided joints, not cope and stick so your cope and stick will be likely even stronger. Forgot to also mention that multiple tenons will be less likely to twist, resulting in a flatter door. The reason I settled for the 2" depth is the practical cutting depth for the cutters I've used which are Onsrud upcut spirals, HSS, but I see some affordable solid carbide ones out there now..

   Edited 6/17/2009 9:21 pm by oldhand

1. 
   woodworker57 | Jun 18, 2009 02:53pm | #4

   Thanks, that makes sense.  WW--57

1. 
   acornw | Jun 18, 2009 07:48pm | #5

   Welcome t o the wonderful world of BigDoorCo and their disposable products. The large manufacturers all use dowels and do not glue all the wonderful cope and stick surface. The squeeze out is to difficult to remove with mid to low skill labor. You are fortunate you can fix the thing. You can also do a few things the original maker felt too pressured to do. 2" deep mortises will do nicely. While you have the door apart, you can seal the ends of the panels with epoxy. Do not glue them in place, just paint on a bit of epoxy to wick up into the end grain to prevent/slow moisture absorption in the future. Then when assembling, make good use of all the glue surface. Just before hanging, paint the tops and bottoms of the stiles with epoxy to seal out moisture - especially at the door bottom. Dave S
   http://www.acornwoodworks.com

2. 
   woodworker57 | Jun 19, 2009 12:53am | #6

   More good info.  Thanks.  It is a crying shame that consumers spend good hard earned money on products from long time reputable????? companies thinking they are getting their moneys worth.   And ----sometimes they do, but the consumer out there who cannot repair things themselves are out some more good  hard earned cash.  Thanks for this thread.  It helped alot.  WW--57

3. 
   oldhand | Jun 19, 2009 04:23am | #7

   It's a little off topic but house design deserves plenty of credit for wood door failure as well. In the climate I work in [south U.S.] wood doors should have weather protection via nearby ample roof overhang, awning or better yet a porch. Any wood door subjected to harsh weather elements is in for a rough life..