We talk much (ang quite interestingly and informativerly, too) about making furniture, but what about repairing it? As you might imagine from that introduction, I have a problem. Some old oak chairs in our dining room suite (originally my wife’s grandmothers), are cracking.
The construction is such that the rear legs continue up in a single piece to be the main supports for the chair backs. After decades of being slid back and forth, and leaned back in, a few of these leg/back support pieces are beginning to crack along the grain.
I have done nothing yet, but have considered trying to inject glue into the cracks, or possibly drilling and dowelling the weak spots.
Does anyone have any thoughts or successful experience to share?
Joe
Replies
Post a photo of the problem.
John
Joe,
If the cracks are along the grain, and not breaking off short, they can be reglued. Make sure the cracks are clean, that is, not contaminated with dirt and dust. If they are, you must clean them out first- blow the dirt away or vacuum it out. Work as much glue into the cracks as you can. You can often force it in the crack by rubbing it in with a fingertip. You will have to figure a way to clamp the crack closed after working the glue in. If the opposite surfaces of the leg are curved, it will help to saw out a pair of blocks shaped to match the curve of the leg on one edge and have the other edge shaped so that the clamp blocks present a parallel pair of surfaces for the clamp to press upon.
Nails, screws or dowels are seldom needed or even useful in repairing long grain breaks.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Thanks. WHat glue would you recommend?
Joe
Joe,
It depends on the chair, to some extent. Hide glue for antiques, as it's easily reversible. Otherwise, for everyday furniture repairs, I use Franklin's Titebond, or Elmer's carpenter's glue.
Regards,
Ray
Thank you for the advice. These are old chairs, though perhaps not antique yet. However, they are in daily use -- so I guess the titebind or elmers is the way to go.
No reason to discount Hide glue. Even the weaker liquid hide glue is as strong as Titebond and the hot hide glue stronger. Elmers will work fine of course--as long as you can glue the breaks together in exactly the original positions. And I will repeat the point made earlier. Metal fasteners have no place in furniture repair.
Have never used hide glue. Probably shouldn't start on a highly visable piece.
Not sure I agree on the metal fastners. If properly antiqued, drywall screws can add very nice accents to old Hepplewhite and the like, don't you think?
Apropos of that, however, we also have some old chairs that 80 or 90 years or so held a church choir off the floor. They are interesting, and attractive, but not "fine" antique furniture by any means. We use them in the breakfast room. They are held together in part with wood screws, which are working loose. I could epoxy the screw holes and start fresh, but wonder if there is not a better way to go.
Any ideas?
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