Replies

1. 
   SlimShaving | Mar 17, 2005 05:11am | #1

   Bob
   I don't know about an Incra jig. But I set a stop to the left (and in front) of the blade. move the board and the fence to the stop, rip the strip and move the board and fence again. the strip falls to the left

   Dave

   There are four boxes to be used in defence of liberty: soap, ballot, jury and ammo. Please use in that order - Ed Howdershelt
2. 
   hammer1 | Mar 17, 2005 06:04am | #2

   I don't know the magazine tip but I rip small pieces all the time. First, I use a zero clearance throat plate so small pieces don't slip through. I set the fence for the size I need and use a sacrificial push stick that I cut right through. Here's a picture of my favorite push stick style. It holds down while pushing ahead and I just toss them after they have been cut up a bit. Using plywood is best, that way the notch won't break off. This one has been cut through a few times.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   docbones | Mar 17, 2005 05:39pm | #6

   Hi Hammer. Great suggestion and thank you for the picture. I will make this today. Stay safe,   Bob

3. 
   xcutsaw | Mar 17, 2005 10:19am | #3

   I second Hammer's approach.

   I really like a push stick/board that extends out over the work. With it, you can maintain right-ward pressure with your hand to keep the work firmly against the fence.

   If you make the pusher tall and thin enough, you can maintain control over the work even with a guard and splitter in place.

   regards
   Tom

   [Avoid schadenfreude]

1. 
   docbones | Mar 17, 2005 05:40pm | #7

   Many thanks for your help. I will try this as well.    Bob

4. 
   Len | Mar 17, 2005 05:31pm | #4

   Bob,

   There are a few ways to do this.

   You might want to consider getting some 3/8 thick MDF (Masonite). Rip the MDF into strips. Then use the strips as an auxiliary fence, by adding each fence your 1/4 thick piece will fall off on the left.

   You could use auxiliary short fence so the 1/4 strip doesn't bind between the blade and fence. Set the fence so it is just in front of the blade. Also a splitter would be helpful.

   Do you have a Gripper magnetic feather board? With the metal fence they would keep the strip from kicking back.

   Hope this helps.

    

    

   Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...
1. 
   docbones | Mar 17, 2005 05:37pm | #5

   Thanks Len. Good suggestion. Yes I do have a magnetic gripper. Stay safe. Bob

2. 
   Tao | Mar 17, 2005 08:13pm | #8

   I'm with Len here on the short fence, but I often have to rip a lot of long 1/4" or 3/8" edging for shelves and such, and it works best for me just to set the saw fence once and just rip.

   The short fence clamped to your tablesaw fence is a great idea and will greatly reduce tha possibility of kickback.  It should be set so that the board falls free just after the cut is completed at the front of the blade.

   I use two long narrow push sticks with a notch in the end to control the board,  one in my right hand to push with, and one in the left to hold the stock down and against the fence.  Mine are about a foot long, a couple of inches wide, and 3/4" thick.  When I cut narrow strips I just keep the one in my right hand against the fence and let the saw rip it to thickness.  A new one takes a couple of minutes to make out of scrap. 

   On long stock I feed with my right hand supporting the stock and a push stick in my left until the last foot or two, and then switch to the push stick to complete the cut.  The sticks are small enough that I can keep one in my right hand while feeding the board, or else I set the one for my right hand down just to the right side of the fence so I can pick it up smoothly without letting the board stop.

   Since the strips are too narrow to allow a splitter, I make sure to keep the saw blade low so that the teeth just project about 1/2" above the surface.  The fence helps a little to guard the blade. I like feather boards for some applications, but they just seem to get in the way here.  Maybe I'm missing something......

   Michael R

   Edited 3/17/2005 1:23 pm ET by Woodwiz

5. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 18, 2005 01:57am | #9

   As Hammer suggested.. Use a Zero clearance throat plate so small pieces don't slip through.

   I have a Incra fence with templates I can use but I use to use this before I got the Incra. See attachment. Not rocket science but worked for me. But you have to move the fence each time.

   In fact the rule for the saw fence is close enough.. I do however, surface plane the strips so not really a issue if off a bit.

   
6. 
   mousejockey | Mar 18, 2005 02:53am | #10

   Have a look at the "gripper" at woodcraft. I haven't taken a close look at it but I believe it claims that you can easily and safely rip stock to 1/4".

   Chief

   Over the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!
1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 18, 2005 03:09am | #11

   I have one.. (Micro Jig, Inc) It works GREAT if I remember to use it.. Just make sure the anti-slip pads are clean and the saw blade is not in the way of the Ripper..

   A little expensive but works great...

2. 
   docbones | Mar 18, 2005 03:16am | #12

   Hi Chief, thanks for the reply. I have the gripper and it is a fine tool but inboard leg is 1/4". Too close. Thought about making a piece to replace that but the 1/4 leg allows for the screws to be recessed to not encroach on the rip fence.    Bob

7. 
   sedna | Mar 18, 2005 05:40am | #13

   I am also a new member, so I may be missing something, but for what it is worth!
   I had to rip a bunch of long, very narrow strips for a cedar strip canoe. Using a table saw would have used one half of the expensive wood as sawdust. I used a couple of support tables and ripped the strips with my bandsaw. Of course the strips were planed and sanded once on the canoe frame, but I figure I got about a third more strips from my lumber and the operation was safe. The strips were 18 feet long, so I had a helper pull the etrips the last foot or so while I held the board against the fence, Resetting a featherboard for each pass would have taken more time.
   Keith