Replies

1. 
   terrylee86 | Nov 02, 2006 03:30pm | #1

   Not an easy process.  You have to peel off the laminate face, unscrew the countersunk sheet metal screws, make a new baltic birch replacement fence and reapply the new fence.  Use the old fence for a drill guide or you will have to drill new holes.  Make sure you slot the baltic birch fench for the new T-molding. Glue new laminate onto the fence, rout and install t- molding.  I know people who just apply a new piece of King starboard to the old fence, but you lose the measuring ability.  Tough trade off.  It does'nt take all that long, but it can be a job.  I don't know if Delta makes a replacement kit.  I had all the scrap parts( formica, baltic birch and t-molding) so I never checked.  There may be an easier way so I hope you get more responses.

   Terry

1. 
   dgas | Nov 03, 2006 05:24am | #4

   All of your replies were helpful, thanks.Actually I wanted to add an auxiliary fence and there does not seem to be an easy method to attach the auxiliary fence to the existing fence. I like the Biesemeyer fence, very accurate and dead on. However, you would think Biesemeyer would have made the fence facing taller so that it would be easier to add an auxiliary fence. I can use all of your inputs to develop a method to add my auxiliary fence or purchase Biesemeyer’s $125.00 auxiliary fence. Thanks again.

2. 
   mapleman | Nov 02, 2006 05:52pm | #2

   Dgas,

   How about UHMW plastic? Woodcraft sells pieces 1/2" and 3/4" thick, in pieces 4"X48". Seems like you could just countersink the screws and bolt it directly to your fence after you remove the old one.

   Lee

1. 
   rompus62 | Nov 02, 2006 07:51pm | #3

   I don't know how the new ones are constructed but on my old one I put a heat gun to the formica. Flip it upside down so you can get a chisle under the formica.It will eventually soften the glue and it will peel off. Then cut a piece to fit and reglue.No need to take off the tee molding, just be careful with the heat gun around the t molding. You can also use solvent to loosen it but that takes longer and is messy.

2. 
   dgas | Nov 03, 2006 05:24am | #5

   All of your replies were helpful, thanks.Actually I wanted to add an auxiliary fence and there does not seem to be an easy method to attach the auxiliary fence to the existing fence. I like the Biesemeyer fence, very accurate and dead on. However, you would think Biesemeyer would have made the fence facing taller so that it would be easier to add an auxiliary fence. I can use all of your inputs to develop a method to add my auxiliary fence or purchase Biesemeyer’s $125.00 auxiliary fence. Thanks again.

3. 
   dgas | Nov 03, 2006 05:31am | #6

   All of your replies were helpful, thanks.Actually I wanted to add an auxiliary fence and there does not seem to be an easy method to attach the auxiliary fence to the existing fence. I like the Biesemeyer fence, very accurate and dead on. However, you would think Biesemeyer would have made the fence facing taller so that it would be easier to add an auxiliary fence. I can use all of your inputs to develop a method to add my auxiliary fence or purchase Biesemeyer’s $125.00 auxiliary fence. Thanks again.Antoher thought. Are you suggesting that I screw the UHMW into the laminate facing?

1. 
   desertmaster | Nov 03, 2006 06:56am | #7

   dgas,

     Are you referring to adding aux fences such as a tall fance and a fence foir rabbetting? If so, here's what I did with my Bies without needing to alter the original laminate faced fence:  

        I made an attachment cleat just under 3" wide by about 36" long out of 1/2" Baltic Birch plywd.  I installed 2 T-nuts (1/4" X20 threads) about 16" apart on the underside of this cleat and then attached this cleat to the top of the original Biesemeier fence with 4 sheetmetal screws. The cleat fit exactly between the two  original T molding strips on the Bies fence.  You may need to shim under one side or the other of the cleat to be sure it attaches at exactly 90 degrees to the side. Whatever aux fence is needed can then be attached to the cleat by screwing to the T nuts. In this way I can attach fences for the saw blade on the left side of the Biesmeier, or a fence for my table mounted router on the right side.  Hope this helps.     Gary

1. 
   dgas | Nov 05, 2006 09:46pm | #10

   I like your solution, however I am not sure how it works. Do you have a picture you could send?

1. 
   desertmaster | Nov 06, 2006 07:35am | #11

   dgas,

     No, sorry, I  majored in tablesaw, slept through computer.  I reread my reply, and realized I should have added that the auxiliary fence has to have a  piece  (about 24" X 5" X 3/4") attached to it, to form a right angle; bolt through this piece down into the T nuts on the cleat. You will also probably have to attach a couple of right angle brackets connecting to the cleat and the fence (the tall fence) to provide rigidity (keeps the fence at 90 degrees to the saw table.  Hope this helps.    Gary

2. 
   dgas | Nov 07, 2006 05:56am | #12

   Thanks for the input.

2. 
   mapleman | Nov 03, 2006 07:01am | #8

   Dgas,

   You could do that, but then you would have to move your saw's cursor over the thickness of the uhmw so your rule would register correctly. And you would have screw holes in the laminate fence. I was thinking more on the lines of removing the laminate face altogether, and replacing it with the uhmw. If your laminate fence is 3/4" thick, replace it with 3/4" thick uhmw, if it's 1/2" thick use the 1/2" uhmw. I have a powermatic 66 and their fence is set up with uhmw on it, so when it gets messed up, all you do is flip the fence upside down and loosen six bolts, then slide the facing off. I haven't seen the beisemeyer up close, so I'm not sure if it is a similar set up. Good luck,

   Lee

1. 
   DJK | Nov 04, 2006 06:11am | #9

   The easy way is to sell the Beis. fence assembly and purchase a Unifence. Problem solved.
   DJK