I have been buying used tools from old farms to start my tool collection. I have been able to sharpen and recondition the metal; however, some of the handles need fixing.
But, I am still learning about woods and how to spot, which wood is which – something that I still struggle with.
Due to the latter, what is a good wood to replace saw handles? In addition, what is a good general use hardwood that I can use to replace handles on: chisels, screwdrivers and Brace & Bit?
Thank you
Replies
I have made chisel handles that have held up well with ash. I first tried a saw handle out of red maple, but it cracked. I then tried sweet gum that has held up well. The ash mallet I made split after about three months of use. I then used a crepe myrtle to make a carving mallet that has held up well for over a year. In the future I will choose quarter sawed, close grain hardwood like hard maple or birch for saw handles and chisel handles.
Ash is used in long handles, like shovels, so it should hold up well for chisels. I used acacia for many handles which worked well, but I had a ready source of this wood which might not the case for woodworkers in the USA. You might find a source of short pieces of various woods and do some testing. Sawmills would be a good place to try. I've also found that hardwood stores often sell shorts pretty cheap. A board foot of wood will make a lot of handles.
I made a tote for my old Stanley #7 years ago out of poplar... It has surprisingly held up... But, it is very oversized (to fit my hand).
Maple, walnut and cherry are nice for handles. I'm a big fan of mahogany too. But, I am not so sure about using nay of them for chisel handles (unless it's a slip, or non-striking style chisels).
I have heard several folks mention hornbeam as a really good chisel wood. I will say, I have a couple of old Futlon/Craftsmans that are socket chisel with hornbeam handles and I love using them.
A lot of Japanese chisels are made with Japanese oaks, which I think are slightly harder than North American oaks. I would think American red oak especially would tend to chip.
Ash and Beech seem to be the most popular in wooden handled chisels available today (in the not boutique money chisels, that is).
Do you think I could use broken tool handles from pick axes and shovels?
@FiveBirdsCustom
#7 is on my list; however, I only have a #4 and #9-1/2. I want bigger planes to do a table top, but it will come --- Rome Was Not Built in a day.
Do you have plans for your tote? I want to make something for my #9.
I haven't tried broken tool handles, because they are usually badly split. You would have to avoid cracks or splits for a chisel handle.
I don't really work from plans often (sketches and some measurements, etc. But, for curvy things I just eyeball it).
What I did was take the existing tote, and kinda traced it... then, made it fatter, and a little taller. I worked with a rasp, some files and sandpaper.
I recently built a push stick (stick is not really the right description) in the same manner. I wanted a permanent handle, with a shoe and stop I could replace with scrap. But, I did the same thing... Found a saw handle I really liked, and kinda traced it, blew it up and made it fatter to fit even better than the saw did.
Disclaimer here - I have longer fingers, and overall bigger hands. XL gloves are usually a touch tight. So, my guitar necks have to be fatter and I prefer oversized golf club grips and tool handles.
I'll grab some pics of these tow projects tomorrow morning. Hope that'll help some.
@FiveBirdsCustom
I purchased my first rasp the other day, and just loving it to take off a lot of material quickly. It also has a smooth face as well, which at times works better then sandpaper.
Any pictures and pointers are welcomed... I am just starting and do not have anyone to brainstorm with other then you folks online here, so it is greatly appreciated.
My best advice? Start larger than you think... test often.
Here's a few pics. With my mitts and the old tote for comparison.
Really, I just work the rasp and files until it feels good in my hand. I don't worry so much about historic accuracy or vintage correct for a tool I like using all the time. I want something I can hold securely, filters any vibrations, will last and feels nice.
I like the tote and push stick handle. Attached are some tools I made. I used red maple for the gauges, pear for the planes, and sweet gum for the saw handle. The router plane has a concrete anchor bolt for a blade and depth control. It is soft metal so must be sharpened or touched up often. I just used hack saw, grinding wheel, files, and sharpening stones to shape it. The hardest part was to make a stop to hold the blade at the right depth. I think a Lee Valley-Veritas kit would definitive be much better. I just like to experiment. Lots of attempts at tools I tried didn't work. It just takes time and patience.
@FiveBirdCustom
@Ecyor
Thank you both for the pictures. You have given me inspiration to continue to build my own tools and to recondition the used/2nd hand tools I have purchased.
I do not have a wood gauge/marker yet - are they better then a pencil and combination square? I am not sure how to use this piece of equipment.
Funny, I have several combo squares (large and small, and a doubling of one or two - onsite/workshop) and am always reaching for them. I have a Veritas marking gauge, but always struggle with it's small round face and keeping it tight and flat against the workpiece. But, I was watching a video of an older Japanese woodworker, building something the other day and I saw he was using a marking gauge with a longer body... It seemed like it fit his hands nicely.
Yup, I need to make one now. I want a longer, hand shaped handle that I can grip better.
Basically, they are excellent for marking lines parallel to any edge. The lines should be even more accurate than a combo square and a pencil that gets away from being razor sharp.
@FiveBirdsCustom
"Basically, they are excellent for marking lines parallel to any edge. The lines should be even more accurate than a combo square and a pencil that gets away from being razor sharp."
Does or could they help with tear out? I have noticed I get some edge tear out sometimes. I take my time, since taking time and enjoying working with the wood is all part of the experience; however, I still have some tear out.
I promise to get topic back on track after this little side trek into marking gauge; however, this has been a great learning experience for me, since I am new to wood working.
Thank you all again for your suggestions and comments.
Depending on the blade in your marking gauge, I don't see why it couldn't help some with tear out. I tend to use a razor knife or my marking knife to do that kind of scoring (but, I don't have one of these fancy schmancy wood bodied marking gauges like we're talking about here.... yet).
I use the cut line to register a chisel when paring. Used for trimming the shoulder of tenons for instance. The best instructions I've read for making one with a peg/wedge came from Peter Follansbee. Mine does not compare to his. Matt Kenny also had a FWW article on making one with a screw to hold the handle fast. I like the cutters that Steve Latta uses for cutting inlays and what Christian Beckswoort uses, because the blade is on the top. You have to put a dowel through the stem to give the screw that holds the blade some threads. End grain won't hold the screw. You have to drill a pilot hole through the dowel.
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