Replies

1. 
   andyfew322 | Jan 17, 2008 07:19am | #1

   why not just use a regular wrench?

    

   "I'd rather be a hammer than a nail"

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 18, 2008 01:55am | #2

   I'm not familiar with the Jet table saws, but I assume that you need an arbor wrench as well as another wrench for the nut which secures the blade.  I say, forget about it.  Many woodworkers jam a scrap of wood in the teeth of the blade to stop it from turning.  I've never had good luck with that method and personally see it as a good way to bend a tooth or blade.  My method:  Unplug the saw.  Then using a leather glove over your right hand, hold the blade still.  Loosen the nut with the wrench in your other hand and remove the blade.  Reverse the procedure for installing a blade.

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 21, 2008 08:36am | #7

   "Many woodworkers jam a scrap of wood in the teeth of the blade to stop it from turning.  I've never had good luck with that method and personally see it as a good way to bend a tooth or blade. "  IMHO, for this to happen, the nut would have to be way over-tightened.  I never take blades much "past snug" (as described by John White above).  I usually use a block of wood for the loosening step, and a gloved hand for the tightening step.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   mapleman | Jan 18, 2008 04:06am | #3

   kummell,

   how thick are your current wrenches? Most arbor wrenches are a little thin. Once you determine the size (standard/metric) you could buy wrenches from Snap-On or another tool dealer who specializes in selling to auto repair shops (or you may be able to buy from them online). Should you indeed need a thin wrench, you will need to ask for a ( X size) tappet wrench. Tappet wrenches are fairly thin.

   Here is a link to the Snap-on page with metric (open end both sides) wrenches. Click the drop down menu for different sizes. These look to be 3-4mm thick.

   Good luck, hope this helps

   Lee

1. 
   kummell | Jan 20, 2008 05:39am | #4

   thanks for the link, Lee, I'll check it out...  ($27 a wrench, though?!?  wow!)

    

    

1. 
   kidgenius | Jan 20, 2008 06:02pm | #5

   Well....that's snap-on, arguably some of the best tools out there. You pay a pretty penny for them. You might want to try your local Autozone/Checker to see if they sell any single wrenches in the size you need.

4. 
   JohnWW | Jan 20, 2008 09:06pm | #6

   The arbor nut on a table saw only needs to be a bit tighter than just snug, beyond that nothing is gained. The original wrenches will work just fine, they are for everyone else who owns that model saw, which I've worked with.

   Also, unless the tappet wrench is slimmer than usual, it probably still won't fit into the narrow clearance on the arbor behind the blade. The flats are also fairly wide across, I would be surprised if you could find a tappet wrench that big. You would be better off putting the money into something else.

   John White

1. 
   JeffHeath | Feb 01, 2008 03:29am | #12

   John

   My snap-on wrench works just fine on my PM 66.  I think the clearance is the same on the Jet, iirc. 

   Of course, if I didn't already have it, I'd take a craftsman wrench, and give it an instant diet with a grinder.

   Jeff :)

1. 
   JohnWW | Feb 01, 2008 05:52pm | #13

   Most of the hybrid saws have very limited clearance between the fixed flange and the arbor bearing, often times just 1/8 inch or so.  The wrenches that come with the saws are typically made like router wrenches, just punched out of steel plate.  You would have to grind away half or more of the steel in a regular wrench to get it down to the thickness needed.

   Another thing to consider when grinding down mechanic's wrenches is that the good ones are case hardened, the outer layer of steel is hardened but the inner layers are softer.  Grinding away the surface of the wrench weakens it considerably, the end result of the grinding is probably no stronger than the factory supplied wrenches .

   All this is secondary to my point, which was that you don't have to tighten down on an arbor nut with a lot of force, the stock wrenches are more than adequate.

   John White

1. 
   JeffHeath | Feb 01, 2008 06:22pm | #14

   My bad.  I have no experience, none, with a 'hybrid' saw.  I misread the OP.

   Jeff

5. 
   Piccioni | Jan 21, 2008 11:49pm | #8

   If you need a thin wrench, go buy yourself a regular wrench and spend a few minutes in front of a grinder.

   Presto!

   Thin wrench.

   I've done this a couple times, and it ain't pretty but it works swell.

1. 
   cowtown | Jan 30, 2008 10:09am | #9

   I'll second what piccioni saysEric

1. 
   Mackwood | Jan 30, 2008 08:38pm | #10

   Third vote for the used wrench and the grinder.  Just get a good old USA made wrench from the thrift store or garage sale or whatever then gind it down until it fits where it needs to go.

   Regards,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

1. 
   sapwood | Jan 31, 2008 02:49am | #11

   The stick holding the blade technique worked for me for over twenty years, then I got a teflon coated blade. This requires a bit more nut tightning than the stick can support. So, lacking a wrench for the inner arbor faces, I made one from a scrap of 1/8" steel flat bar.