Replies

1. 
   doug | Jan 03, 2009 12:51am | #1

   Stephen;

   My father in law had the same problem.  The motor on his BOSS also burned up and while we found a source for a replacement, it cost almost as much as buying a new BOSS.  I don't know what he'll do, but will tell him you had the same problem.  Maybe it is time to look at something other than a Delta.

   Doug

2. 
   northhouguy | Jan 03, 2009 02:38am | #2

   Stephw

   If the motor has a frame number on the nameplate buy a motor with the same frame number.  It should fit.  If no frame number, good luck.

3. 
   [email protected] | Jan 03, 2009 02:51am | #3

   Can you post a picture of the name plate from the motor, or the data itself? 

   Of particular interest is the NEMA mount/frame data.

   This link is to a NEMA condensed standard for electric motors. 

   http://www.nema.org/stds/mg1condensed.cfm

4. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 03, 2009 02:54am | #4

   Have you contacted a local motor rebuilding shop? They may be able to re-wind it so that it is more robust than the original and would be less likely to overheat again.

   Alternatively, determine what NEMA frame the original motor is. Going from 1/4 to 1/2 HP is not that uncommon. There are several frame sizes available in the 1/4 and 1/2 HP range, so your chance of getting a match is good. Be careful to maintain the same RPM.

   Why do you think you need more HP? I'm guessing the original motor had too small wire in the windings and no thermal overload protection. I would consider carefully whether it is a wise choice to put more money into a Delta that was designed with a 1/4HP motor. My guess is that you could purchase another for the cost of rebuilding or replacing the motor with a Baldor. They are not cheap.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   Stephw | Jan 03, 2009 03:34am | #5

   Thanks all. I have not taken the motor out yet, but will do so and hope that it has the NEMA frame number. I do hear what you are saying, and certainly don't want to throw good money after bad. But, this was a really good sander when it worked. There were only two design flaws in this, (both easily corrected if Delta had the good sense to do so. First is the underpowered/poor quality motor. The Wilton has a 1/3 HP for half the price, though the body is too light in my opinion. The JET is a great alternative, but I don't want to drop $500 on a benchtop OSS when I could step up for a bit more scratch to a floor OSS. Ultimately, $300 was my outer limit on an OSS.The second issue is truly a minor change that would help, which would be a manual spindle lock to make it easier to loosen the spindles. Can't understand how the engineers missed this, but it is fairly minor annoyance.The large, round cast iron table makes up for a lot of these deficiencies, though I will not replace it with a delta motor.The idea of having the motor rewound is actually an interesting idea I had not thought of. I am not adamant about the motor being a Baldor, but I don't want to lay out and run into the same issue. I wanted to step up to a 1/2 HP to avoid bogging down (which happens sometimes when the scouts press too hard. Thanks for all the advice. I will post if I am successfully able to reuse or retrofit a motor on it. I think a lot of folks would be happy to have a non-delta solution to the motor issue.-Stephen

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 03, 2009 04:09am | #6

   If you manage to find a 1/2 horse motor that will fit it the first time a scout presses too hard it will rip the plastic drive gear apart.

   The original motor has plenty of power for the use that sander was intended for. If it is going to be subject to abuse save yourself the headaches and buy a sander with metal gears and an oil bath gearbox. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

2. 
   northhouguy | Jan 03, 2009 05:25am | #7

   S,

   You will probably find that for the cost of rewinding the motor you can buy a truckload of new sanders.

   I don't mean to put you off, and it's certainly worth a phone call, but in industry today motors of 50 HP and below are throwaways.  (It might be 75 HP by now.)

   The cost to strip windings, clean the iron, rewind the stator, dip and bake it, renew bearings, check the rotor for shorted bars, assemble the unit, test it and guarentee the work is cost prohibitive.  Unless, of course you send it to China.  :^(

   Good luck and good hunting...

   Regards,

   F

    

5. 
   SawdustSteve | Jan 04, 2009 02:00am | #8

   Most of these 'inexpensive' units use a motor designed just for THAT machine, so you probably will bot be able to find a standard motor to drop in as a replacement. Try Delta, you may nbe in luck and find the motor is not that expensive. Also, look at the Grizzly website, http://www.grizzly.com. They have a similar unit for $150. It is listed as having a 1/3 HP motor.

   I believe the replacement motor is part #1346424 and lists for $178. It looks like it has a threaded section at the end of the motor shaft and therefore won't be available as a standard 'buy it at Granger' motor. At that cost, it's cheaper to toss the unit and but another one.
   www SawdustSteve

   
   

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   Edited 1/3/2009 6:13 pm ET by SawdustSteve

6. 
   Scjetson | Feb 21, 2017 08:53pm | #9

   Delta Boss sander motor

   So I have the same Delta Boss Sander, that I love, and it's motor burned up also. Did you fix it or replace it? Shopping for a new one comes down to the shop fox W1831 or one of the 2 Grizzelys. That seem much louder Than the Boss.but costs less than a motor for the Boss. What did you do? Thanks Jon

7. 
   MtnStephen | Feb 11, 2021 05:59pm | #10

   In case it saves anyone from throwing away their Delta Boss sander when they think the motor burned up... check the starting capacitor first. I thought my motor was toast; it slowed way down and smelled like hot burning motor. I found this discussion and was going to throw it away and buy a replacement sander. But first I took it apart to see if I had any other motors around that might somehow be adapted. In digging in, I found that just the starting capacitor (under a cover on the side of the motor) was fried. I removed it, and it is back to working fine. To be on the safe side you should probably replace the cap if this happens to you; I don't mind giving the spindle a starter boost by hand.