Just realized there are a couple parts missing from my used Jet 1236 lathe (blue version), the spanner wrench and the live center. Should I replace the live center with a stock replacement from Jet, or is there a better/easier one to buy? Know nothing about “spanner wrenches” — does that need to come from Jet, or can I easily get one elsewhere??
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
FG,
I bought a decent, and relatively inexpensive, live center from Highland Hardware. It was 15.99, plus shipping. That was for a smaller, #1 Morse taper for my older lathe. A #2 MT might be a little more. You don't need the "official" Jet part. All MT's are the same, standard, size. Grizzly has them as well, as do a number of other outlets.
As to the spanner, if it's a standard SAE or metric size, you'd probably be better off going to a place like Sears to pick one up rather than pay shipping charges from Jet. What do you need the spanner for anyway?
Incidentally, I just bought the newer (white) version of your Jet lathe, and am really liking it. It's a big upgrade from the 1960's Sears 3/4 x 16 TPI one I started out with a few months ago. Much heavier duty (though I know it does not in any way compare to some of the behemoths on the market), and I like that I don't need to shut the motor off to change speeds. Plus, the cam clamp tool rest is a wonderful feature.
Zolton
* Some people say I have a problem because I drink hydraulic brake fluid. But I can stop any time I want.
"What do you need the spanner for anyway?" Evidently, it's used to change the centers. Of course, with only one center (the "dead" one, LOL) I guess it's a moot point. Nah, gotta get a live center.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 8/16/2007 11:42 am by forestgirl
forestgirl, you should not need a spanner for changing centers. I am not familiar with the Jet lathe though.
The center in the tail stock will probably be self ejecting. That is you just back up the handwheel and the center will be pushed out.
The center in the head stock will be forced out using a knock out bar. You should have a bar about 18" in length and about 1/4" in diameter. If not, they are easily made out of steel rod that you can pick up at any hardware. Just insert the bar through the hollow drive and tap the drive center out.
Craft Supplies sells a good line of turning tools and accessories. Check out their line of live centers.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
Steve
I just found another site for MT's and other accessories that will work on most wood lathes even though this company specializes in metal lathe accessories. I needed a 3" faceplate with a 1" x 12 TPI for my Grizzly 1495 and they don't make one. This company had a 3" with an unthreaded spindle. Plate was only $18 plus shipping and a friend with a metal lathe cut the threads for me. Check them out for other MT supplies.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG;
Try http://www.packardwoodworks.com for your lathe parts. Great selection. (Just another of those "slippery slopes" we seem to head for) ;-)
Pat
Thanks, Pat, I'll bookmark the site. Don't know how much I'll use the lathe, but rumor has it turning's quite addictive.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forget the Grizz live center! Unless they have changed it. I picked one up while visiting their Pa. outlet and the center was 1/8" out of true, Granted they did ship me a new one(free) but it is still a poor live center and the bearing is sloppy.
For your Jet you will need a #2 Morse taper. To remove the center from the tail stock, all you should have to do is wind the quill back into the tail stock and an internal stop should push the center out.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Bruce,
I don't have any experience with the Grizzly live center - I just saw it in their catalog at an unreal low price; 7.95. Maybe that's because they don't bother making them accurately?
It's a cup center, and I've heard that those are more desirable than single-point centers, because, supposedly, it won't split the stock. What say you?
As a beginner, what I do not know about woodturning would fill a very large volume..
Zolton* Some people say I have a problem because I drink hydraulic brake fluid. But I can stop any time I want.
Just remembered another pits about the Grizz live center. It is a fixed pin and cup(And a very big cup at that). Removable pins are very handy when making green or dry wood bowls, you are then able to move the piece between the centers using just the cup to get it in better balance and the pin isn't trying to go back into the original hole. I definitely prefer the cup and removable pin type for regular turning but when turning pens on the steel mandril I prefer the single point centers that are on the smaller side. One little trick I do when using the pin/cup centers on very hard stock is to punch the layed out center with an awl, and on some of the extremely hard exotics(Brazilian cherry,ebony etc.) I will predrill a pilot with a 1/16" or 5/64" drill about 3/16" deep.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 8/16/2007 9:50 pm ET by BruceS
J. I strongly tout Packard , family run and good stuff-no junk. BUT.... be careful as it is a more slippery slope than hand tool crafting. Turning should be a controlled substance! I have cut my self off at spindles "I WILL NOT START DOING BOWLS, I WILL NOT START DOING BOWLS, I WILL NOT START DOING BOWLS". Whew!!!
If you like it get a turners smock -guys get away with a tight tee shirt but ladies NEED a full neck smock, some have pockets on the back to avoid the two pounds of collected wood shavings. Also you will learn more (technique, sharpening, tips and touch) in 6 months with a turners group than two years of skillful stumbling experience on your own. A Morse taper is a standard as is the diameter/threads per inch of the outside of your drive shaft. I would guess your's to be 1-8(1 inch dia. 8 TPI) and a #2 MT. A live center will be listed by the MT 1 OR 2 OR 3. the factory ones are usually sub par -see Packard or other quality suppliers. Enjoy, enjoy, Paddy
Thanks, Paddy. I've gotten all kinds of warnings about how addictive the spinny stuff is. Ah, well, falling over to the Dark Side -- and at my age, no less! ;-)
If we can ever get this flooring project finished (engineered hardwood, 2 rooms, old knees make it slow), I'll get back out into the shop.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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