After trying a rather frustrating search for information about other’s experiences with re-saw blades for the bandsaw, I thought I would find some new opinions out there perhaps on the blades I am thinking of buying. <!—-><!—-><!—->
I have narrowed my search of manufacturers down to Lenox. I have used the Suffolk blades and the Highland blades with good results in the beginning but they just don’t seem to hold the sharpness as long as the Lenox blades. That’s not saying they don’t do a fine job on smaller projects but.. I am looking for a workhorse. I can live with a wider kerf for the type of work I need to do on this latest pile of wood.
I have been using the Lenox Bi-metal blade(142” x 1” x 1tpi) with great results to cut 16/4 and 12/4 slabs down to useable 4/4 boards from walnut and maple slabs. The bi-metal blades have been as tough as I could hope for at 60 dollars each. Looking at the Lenox site today, I see they have other blades in their Woodmaster line that I have not tried and I wondered if any others may have tried them out??<!—-><!—->
The Woodmaster C(carbon steel) is cheaper than the bimetal (50 – 60%less), it leaves the same kerf, has the same hook and tpi pattern- but I don’t know how long they last? Maybe an option to buy 2 or 3 of these?<!—-><!—->
The Woodmaster CT is more pricey buy promises better results than the bimetal so I am looking at this one(125.00). I have tried the Tri Master and it is just fantastic but the 200-225 price tag is a bit high.<!—-> <!—->
If you have some experience with these blades I sure would appreciate some inputs in the near future. I have 300-400bf of walnut needing to be cut down to 6/4 and 4/4 stock. The wood has been air drying for 5 years.
Thanks
dan<!—-><!—->
Replies
I heard you when you said you had it narrowed down. You might consider broadening your view to include this:
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=47027.7
There are videos to watch if when you get to the link you click on Video
Here are some quick ones on Lenox :
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=43776.4
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=39082.18
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=46168.16
I just entered Lenox or Lenox bandsaw in the search screen
Some of the old info for Laguna blades prior to 2007 or so is out of date the Resaw king blade is reltively new and is revolutionary if used with the ceramic guides. They are a system together. I like 'em but not cheep.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 7/12/2009 5:02 pm by roc
1-1/8 " ( 30mm) wide Laguna Resaw King ; it is about a three to four tooth per inch.
Unfortunately you can not run the 1 1/8 blade on the old rockwell delta I have. This why I am working the 1" Lenox stuff.
I see. Please see my PS to my first post that I was working on while your last post. Hope you find what you need.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
We've been using the Lenox Carbon blades in our school shop for years, save for the few times we got brave and explored other brands. I've found for the money they are the best value in terms of longevity.
Ted
Thanks for the pointer. I have used the carbon blades(about 3-4) and found them to be a good value - especially if students are cutting things. They are less costly than the bimetal.
I do a bunch of resawing. 1000-1500ft/6mos. For the little extra for the bimetal, you get much longer sharpness and I have never had a blade snap with the bimetal. All of the carbons go pop when the finally get dull.
I have not tried the new Woodmaster Carbide Tip(CT). I have tried the Tri-Master when I resawed 10/4 birdseye maple 14" wide and 10' long. I had six boards to cut and the Tri Master cut thru this stuff like it was white pine. It is a clear step up from the bi-metal performance in terms of final surface.
Now there is some difference in the tip pattern that favors the Tri for final surfacing. The bimetal that I use is the 1"wide/1.3tpi hook. The Tri-Master is not built to work only wood. It comes with a tighter tooth pattern so you are going to get a smoother cut surface. It surprised me when it did not bog down in the maple with teeth in a closer pattern. A pleasant surprise that is.
I have not tried cutting the same type wood with the bimetal and the Tri Master as of yet. Guess what?
I ordered 2 bimetals and a Tri-Master today. I am about to cut into some serious crotch slabs and I don't want blades wandering in this stuff. I guess I'll report back after I get the work done.
Couple photos of the slabs I am cutting. I have 7-8 to go. Might post photos but FWW is stingy and I have gotten out of the photo business here. I post more photos over on the Creek.
later
Nice wood.. hard to beat the bi-metal for the price. The Tri is very nice but.. it is a simple choice for me to either chose it and forget wood or use the Bi and have wood to build something with the blade. :>)
What's your full handle at the Creek?
Regards...
Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
I run the Lennox bi-metal Classic in 3/4" 3 tpi and get good results. Good enough I have no intentions of looking elsewhere probably. I did see the cut of the Woodmaster (I believe it was the Woodmaster as the carbide about half the price of the bi-metal) and frankly.. I could not tell any difference in that cut and the bi-metal. It might stay sharp a bit longer but it would have to stay sharp 2 1/4 times as long to make it feasible to me as I pay around $50 shipped and I keep two on hand.
Good luck with it and let us know if you find any diamonds in the rough out there.
Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
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