I am wanting to resaw 4″ wide ash lumber that is 5′ long. Will my PM 14 ” bandsaw have enough mussle to do the job? I will need to make 6-8 cuts to get enough material. Also, what kind of bandsaw blade will I need? Width?TPI? Hook Type?etc. Also, what brand would you reccomend? All help is Appreciated—-WW57
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Replies
A few weeks ago, I had a similar job - except I was cutting 7' lengths of beech. I popped for a 1", 3 tpi resaw blade, loaded it in my Jet 14" BS, and couldn't have been happier.
A couple of those stand mounted rollers to handle the infeed and outfeed, and it was like slicing bologna. - lol
I tend to use a 1/2" 3 tpi blade for such things. Actually, I use this for most things :) My bandsaw is a 3 year old 14" Ridgid with a 1 1/2 hp replacement motor and a 6" riser kit. This cuts 10-12" thick Tasmanian Oak.
A new blade always makes the biggest difference.
With resawing in mind, I have just bought a Hammer 4400. This runs a 2 1/2 hp motor and 17 1/2" wheels. The agent recommends 3/4" blades at the max. limit and 1/2" for most things. So I am continuing to live with 1/2" blades. Quite happily. Of course, I will be able to crank up the tension a little more.:)
Regards from Perth
Derek
woodworker57,
I do that all the time on my 14" Delta 1hp. with a 1/2" skip tooth blade. I've used Olsen and Woodcraft blades...the wood is rough and sometimes dirty and I see no reason to use a more expensive blade.
Before I received all of the input from you guys, a talked to a man at Wooworkers
Supply about the saw blade for resawing and he rec. a 1/2 " hook tooth w/ 4-6 tpi. So I found a 4tpi in the catologe and ordered it. Hope I did not make a mistake. Wanting to resaw to about 5/16 " so I can clean it up to +/- 3/16. Thanks for the advise. That is what is so good about this forum. WW57 BTW, my saw is 3/4 HP.
It is often mistakenly thought that wider is more when it comes to band saw blades. For that little job anything from a 6mm to a 12mm wide skip tooth of about 3tpi would eat it up like corn off the cob and take very little power-even a 1/2 horse motor would be loafing- sharp blade ofcourse.
I agree that the blade you spec'd would do his job easily and further agree that 1/2 horse would be a great plenty but I must say I do like a wide 1"+ blade and a tooth count closer to 1/inch because of the big gullets and the tendency for a wide blade to want to go in a straight line thereby making my steering job easier and clearing the waste quicker and cooler.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
and the tendency for a wide blade to want to go in a straight line thereby making my steering job easier and clearing the waste quicker and cooler.
Yes.. However... A one inch Lenox blade can be HARD to 'get to' track well. Takes a 'bit' of tension! My so called Junk Rikon 18 can do it?...
1/2 or 3/4 is easier to track in my opinion.. I still use my 1 inch!
I have'nt tried the Lennox, I have had good luck with the Morse 1 1/8 1.3 tpi. I tension it just to where it runs straight, lots of spring left in the adjuster.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
I use Ash ALOT! I love that wood.. It is a tough wood but easy to work with. I think Hickory is also! Most think it is not..
You post never mentioned thickness of the slices you want. I use a 18" bandsaw with a 1 inch wide 3 tooth per inch blade.. Ash and Hickory cut very easy. Jatoba and Purpleheart, I use alot, is quite a DIFFERENT STORY altogether.
With Ash and Hickory my 1/2 inch blade works better than just OK. I like the 1 inch blade better but it is a bit thick so you waste more wood.
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