Hello All!
I have a question regarding my Rikon 18″ bandsaw. This saw is definately not a Laguana, but it cuts very well. Question being, what brand of blade is everyone cutting veneer with on their larger band saws. I have read articles on this topic and it seems every article has a different opionion? I spoke with Michael Fortune at Marc Adams School of Woodworking and he uses blades out of Canada. I spoke with David Marks (i’m a huge fan) and he uses a bi-metal blade. I am trying to get my Rikon to perform better. When I resaw, I made a tall fence that I run the board against and have tracked the drift…etc,etc. Is there any bandsaw experts out there that can clear this up for me?
Merry Christmas to All!!!
(I love talking about woodworking when I’m at work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Replies
woodman
Like you said, there are many ways to skin the cat. I've used several brands of blades for my bandsaws, and all have worked well for me. For resawing, you want to have a 3/8" to 1/2" blade with 2 to 3 tpi. I always use 1/2".
Highland Hardware sells Woodslicer blades, and I think that you'll find that they are excellent. Your bandsaw set up is at least as important as the blade. Make sure you tension the blade properly (I'm in the camp of overtensioning the blade for resawing). Make sure your guide blocks are setup correctly, and that you account for drift with your fence.
I've also had good luck with Olsen All-Pro blades. I got a deal on them, and bought a bunch about 8 years ago. They've held up well, too.
Jeff
Edited 12/14/2006 11:54 am ET by JeffHeath
Edited 12/14/2006 11:55 am ET by JeffHeath
I've had good luck with Lee Valley's Viking/Timberwolf blades (1/2" x 3 TPI). I don't know if they make any to fit your bandsaw (I use them on a 14" Delta BS).
Regards,Nathan
I have the same saw (Rikon 18"). I use a 1" blade (Timberwolf) from Woodcraft. It works like a champ but you won't be cutting any curves without a blade change:0)
I swear by timberwolf. Have had woodslicer and prefer 3/4 inch 3tpi blade from timberwolf. Call Suffolk Machinery and they will help you choose the blade you need.
PMM
Want to second P. M. Matty's post. Make sure you contact Suffolk Machinery. You can look them up on Google. You can also talk with their techicnal service personnel, give them the make and model of your saw and they will recommend the blade best for you. Also, they willingly answer any other questions you may have regarding your saw and problems you may encounter. Again, I urge you to follow PMM's advice. Your will be glad you did.
Billy B.
Woodman:
The answer to your question depends somewhat on your budget. First of all, with an 18 inch bandsaw there is no reason to use a blade smaller than 1", especially for resawing -- the greater beam strength of the larger blade will help immensely. Secondly, if you have the money for it and you need/want the absolute cleanest cuts you might consider a Lenox carbide blade or a resaw king from Laguna -- both leave a surface that is unbelievable. Both blades will run you about $200 (not sure what size blade your machine takes) but will last 10x longer than the others, plus both can be resharpened. If you resaw (or plan to) a lot of veneer then that is the route I would go. However, if all you do is an occassional resaw then any of those mentioned by the previous posters will do nicely -- just get a 1" blade vs. 1/2"
Regards,
Michael
I respectfully disagree with you regarding a 1" blade for resawing. I have an 18" bandsaw, and have been resawing with 1/2" blade for about 8 years without issue. On smaller saws, like these, a 1" blade on an underpowered saw can really tax the motor. If the saw is tuned properly, it doesn't need to be turned into a bandmill to resaw properly. I resaw 1/8" strips for bent lams all the time without issue. 3/32" for veneering, also, and have never used a blade wider than 1/2".
I'm not saying 1" won't do the job. Of course not. By all means, use whatever works for you. I'm simply saying that you don't have to get a blade that wide to get excellent results. $$$$$
Jeff
Good morning Jeff..
And I respectively agree with you. I used a 1/2" Woodslicer for years on re-saw and a 1/2" Lennox bi-metal for ripping and get excellent results. I have moved to a 3/4" Woodslicer and a 3/4" Lennox bi-metal for ripping as I have recently acquired a Steel City 18" with double tension springs. I re-saw with a point fence and when I do use the fence I get no drift because of beam strength the saw can deliver on that size blade. Could I run a 1" with no trouble? I probably could but see no neccesity!
I firmly believe in bean strength.... but.. but.. not exceeding what the BS is capable of without over-taxing the spring, the saw's back-bone strength, HP and over-all capability. Just because the tires will take a wider blade doesn't mean that a wider blade will fit the fore-mentioned necessities to run it.
My saw will take a 1 1/4" blade, but I find 3/4" sufficient to mate the characteristics of that saw and get excellent results. How much farther than excellent should I push the saw and for what reason?
The Rikon has one spring about the same size as my two. After examining the saw closely when I was in the market, I do feel that a 3/4" blade would be the widest I would run and an excellent choice for it. I would go to a 1" blade on 20" saws from the Pacific Rim (MM.. Aggazani..etc. can run the 1" even in a 16" saw as they have very larger tension springs) and on 24" BS, if the tire will take it.. run it as we are talking massive springs and very rigid cast iron back-frames as opposed to high tech steel box construction.
Just my $.02 worth from the view from my shop...
SARGE..
I'll add another positive comment from experience on 1/2" bands on my 20" machine. So-called "beam strength" gets quoted endlessly on the web but it's often misinterpreted as "depth=resistance to deflection". Depth is one aspect of how a band will perform in a resaw that can easily be canceled out by other factors. Some saws work best with big bands, but others will get an outstanding resaw with a 1/2" band.Pete
Edited 12/15/2006 11:18 am ET by PeteBradley
This is really something.....Look down through all the posts and it seems there is no definate answer. It sounds like a Ford/Chevy situation. Maybe each band saw will act differently and everyone's thought on "good" may be different from person to person. I think I am all set as far as which manufacturer to buy, but there seems to be a different opinion of whether to buy 1/2" or 3/4" or even 1". I thought I bought a good saw with it being an 18" Rikon...it got great reviews. Is it a quality saw that will handle cutting 11" pieces of veneer?
YEP... just mix the right ingredients with that Rikon and keep em tuned!
Sorry.. you posted the question while I was typing...
Regards...
SARGE..jt
And I have to agree with that essentially, Pete. The BS is the most finicky machine in the shop. You can have the most expensive, well designed and well built BS ever made and what have you got?
An expensive, well designed and well made machine that if all the individual "all-star" components (including blade quality and selection) are not synchronized with each other... or the operator does not understand each component and how they "must" work in con-junction with each other... what have you got?
You got a lot of expensive metal that could be out-preformed with a lesser quality machine and more a more know-ledgeble operator. I almost purchased the MM-16 which will stay in the saddle all day long with a 1" carbide blade on re-saw. But... without the knowledge that the size and type bearing on that saw are not a "match made in heaven" for 1/2" and under carbon blades (heat sensitive) for curve cutting without a switch to smaller cool block type guides made for it..... I have rendered a superior machine to an inferior machine that is basically worthless in the curve cutting scenario.
So...... in my opinion, any band-saw is upgraded to a better band-saw with someone is standing behind it that understands what makes the "entire package" go round and round with the least effort and the most efficient results!
The oak breakfast nook table awaits in the shop. Time to stop talking bout it here and make it happen there. Tenons on a BS? You betcha booty... ha.. ha...
Regards...
SARGE..jt
I do all my tenons on a BS now. I have a template that is the thickness of the tenon + the thickness of the band kerf. I cut the first shoulder with the template between the fence and the piece to be cut. Pull the template out; cut the second shoulder.
Pete
Sarge
I was running a 1/2" blade on a 36" Tannewitz, resawing 20" wide boards without a problem in the world. You couldn't over tax the beam strength on that monster. You could hang a car from it and it wouldn't move. That being said, the question was for 18" bandsaws, and I just so happen to have one. And, I resaw with a 1/2" woodslicer right now. I just so happened to resaw 8" wide cherry boards into 50 1/8" thick strips today, as I'm bending them for a set of chairs I'm working on. After I resaw them, I rip them into 4" wide stock, so I have less resawing to do. No problem for that blade at all.
One could certainly use 1", or even 1 1/4", but my saw, which is 2hp, doesn't like those blades very well.
Jeff
Evening Jeff..
The 3/4" Woodlslicer was just introduced not long ago. Before that is was only available in 1/2" and a ton of them have been sold and used successfully. I wanted to experiment with keeping a 3/4" on the saw for both re-saw and rip to see what kind of results I get.
So far.. so good @ $40, but I expect the Slicer to dull too soon with the added rip duty. Time will tell.
Regards...
SARGE.. jt
Hi Woodman,
I will be the second poster to recommend a Lennox Tri-Master 2/3 tpi blade for resawing. The blade is pricey (between $150 - $200), but the cut is like nothing else, especially if you plan on resawing any veneer. I would think that a Rikon 18 could properly tension a 1" or 1.25 " Tri-master.
I have resawn 13" wide crotch Walnut veneer (maxium resaw height on a 1st generation MM16) with the Tri-master, the machine acted like wasn't sawing anything, the blade is truly amazing.
Best of luck and happy resawing
I am a big fan of David Marks also. I think I will cancel my subscription to DIY because they took him off. They left that idiot David what's his name on there with his Tools and Techniques show. That show is really bad. I don't know what they are thinking.
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