Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 04, 2006 11:45pm | #1

   Whether to use a fence or a point depends on how good your blade is and how well the bandsaw is set up to avoid drift.  A point allows compensating for drift.

   I would try to avoid resawing such long pieces.  I wouldn't resaw a board until I had a specific use in a project, so I could only cut what I needed for those particular parts.   

1. 
   wajacobs | Jan 05, 2006 12:02am | #2

   Thanks Steve,

   Thats the problem.  The project I have in mind calls for 4/4 horizontal members 8' long and 13" wide.

    

   -w

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 05, 2006 07:25pm | #8

   Well, then you can resaw that length, you just have to arrange enough support on both infeed and outfeed ends.  A well tuned saw that will allow resawing against a fence would make it easier, since you can use a hold in devise to help keep the wood against the fence.  I assume you are still planning to glue up the wood to get the necessary width.  If you need to resaw that height you will need to go to a pretty substantial bandsaw. 

1. 
   wajacobs | Jan 05, 2006 10:05pm | #9

   Steve,

   Thats pretty much what I'm thinking right now.  I plan on building a  large feather board type device using skate board wheels to help keep the boards flat against the fence and an extention table.  I'll also get one of my buddies to help me.

    Normally I wouldn't even consider trying such an ambitious project (being a band saw novice and all) but I got the wood for such a ridiculous price (<$2.00/bf) I have to try.

    

   -wes 

1. 
   ring | Jan 06, 2006 09:31am | #10

   1.  If you're using a point reference instead of a fence (it's actually a line, not a point) then the device applying pressure from the side also needs to be a point, exactly opposite.  This system is extremely easy to set up and works well. 

   2.  You can get away with one support table if need be - start the cut with the support under the infeed side.  When you get to midway leave the board balanced on the sawtable and move the support around to the outfeed side.  This is a pain, but it works.

   DR

2. 
   cadiddlehopper | Apr 15, 2006 09:55pm | #17

   Why don't you buy one of those horizontal resaw bandsaws with all the money you saved on materials? That would make your project a snap.Cadiddlehopper

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 05, 2006 02:04am | #3

   Wes

   I resaw against a fence, and I only use a 1/2" blade.  I do it all the time.  You need to set the fence for the drift of the saw, and I prefer a nice shop made tall fence of plywood or mdf vs. most of the crappy ones that come with the cheaper bandsaws these days.  I also use a nice, fat finger board right infront of the blade made out of 8/4 scrap.  Once you have control of the drift issue, keeping your stock pressed against the fence is critical.  I always flatten one side first, and joint the bottom edge to 90°.  Run the flattened side against the fence, and the jointed side down on your bandsaw table.  With this setup, I can consistantly cut 3/32" veneer. 

   For long boards, either make an extension table, if you'll be doing alot of resawing, or just use a roller support front and aft.  Keep in mind that if you use rollers, they like to pull and tug at the board, so make sure they're perpendicular to the resaw fence (drift!).

   Jeff

1. 
   wajacobs | Jan 05, 2006 06:28am | #4

   Thanks for the help. 

1. 
   Bodgerman | Jan 05, 2006 06:50am | #5

   Excuse me.......but what the heck is a "point guide"?

    

   Thanks.Life may be short but it can be very wide!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 05, 2006 05:02pm | #6

   It is a guide that presents a vertical tip next to the blade that the wood being sawn can be passed against, but which allows varying the angle of the cut to compensate for drift that is common with many bandsaw blades. I'll scrounge around for a picture if I can.  I'm not happy with this verbal description.

   Edited 1/5/2006 9:03 am ET by SteveSchoene

2. 
   BG | Jan 06, 2006 02:05pm | #11

   Jeff,
   Would you have a picture of your finger board for the bandsaw? The only type I've seen was built using a short piece of formica and I'm finding it difficult to find some formica scraps. I'd love to see how you built yours. thanks

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 06, 2006 04:48pm | #13

   BG

   I'd be happy to.  The wife has my digital camera, and she's out of town for the weekend.  When she gets back, I'll snap a photo and post it to you.

   You don't need formica.  Just an 8/4 scrap piece of hardwood, and saw the fingers into one end on an angle.  I just clamp it to the table top of the bandsaw.  I use the same one on my shaper, too.

   Jeff

   Edited 1/6/2006 8:50 am ET by JeffHeath

3. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 05, 2006 05:38pm | #7

   Hi Wes,

   I would agree with poster SteveSchoene, that resawing any piece of lumber that is 8 to 12 foot long is surely going to be a challenge, especially so for a new bandsaw user.

   If I understand you correctly, you need to net 4/4 8 foot long pieces from you stock? Seems like you are going to waste lots of Mahogany with the 8/4 and 12/4 stock, as the best you will net from the 8/4 is one resawn piece, and net two from the 12/4 stock.

   Best of luck.  

    

4. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 06, 2006 04:23pm | #12

   Ok Wes,

   Where on earth did you find 6/4, 8/4 and 12/4 Mahogany for $2.00 BF? Numbers from my supplier are more like $5.50 to $6.00 BF..

1. 
   wajacobs | Jan 06, 2006 05:30pm | #14

   http://www.woodweb.com

   I'm here in california and check the woodweb weekly for deals.   A guy in Costa Mesa was advertising it. Genuine Hundruran Mahogany $2.00/bf common rough.  There are some knots and checks but at $2.00/bf but the color was very consistant and the boards were very straight and not cupped.  If I had more room I'd have bought more.

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 06, 2006 07:56pm | #15

   Wes,

   Thanks, I check out woodweb from time to time, but never seem to find many great deals.

5. 
   Stu in Tokyo | Apr 14, 2006 09:48pm | #16

   Don't mind me if I jump in here.

   A couple of things, one is don't use any kind of rollers for the in or out-feed support, unless the rollers are dead on, they will ride the wood to the right or left. The better thing to use is a few stands that have that white slippy plastic stuff on top, rounded over, UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight?) this way the wood will go the way it wants to, and not be directed right or left.

   Also if you use a fence, make sure the fence ends at the rear of the blade, this way, if any stress is released in the wood as you re-saw it, the wood will not press against the fence, causing the cut to go crooked.

   View Image

   (you can see my fence above)

   One other thing, have at least one helper there, it is a lot easier to have one guy pushing the wood, and the other pulling it slightly.

   Oh yeah, last thing, wax the heck out of the table and the fence before each cut, as friction is not your friend here.

   I use an old Hitachi re-saw bandsaw, it has a 2 1/2" wide carbide tipped blade and it hogs through wet hardwood like nothing :D

   View Image

   Stu in Tokyo Japan

   Cheers!

6. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 18, 2006 04:16am | #18

   Hi Wes,

   Obviously you enjoy a challenge.  

   If it were me faced with this task, I'd seriously consider hiring a sawyer.  Even if he charged you $1/bf (which is rediculously expensive), you'd be much better off.   Given the lengths you are faced with, a sawyer has the equipment to handle a task such as this, is much safer and less labor intensive; not to mention the accuracy of the cuts for the length you are contemplating.

   You didn't mention the widths of the boards, so I am assuming that some will require gluing together to make up the 13" width requirement.  Given that, the boards will also need to be jointed as well?

   Just my thoughts,

    

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

7. 
   billballeza | Apr 18, 2006 05:20am | #19

   Couple of thoughts:

   Resawing timbers of the length you describe is not a job for an amateur on a mediocre bandsaw. Too many things can go wrong and spoil the job.

   Even if you plan to do resawing of a more manageable nature in the future, I think it would be advisable for you to take these timbers to a mill and let them resaw to the dimensions you are looking for.

   If it were me I would also have them surface the timbers because of the challenges of jointing and planing that size timbers.

   If you insist on milling them yourself, have the mill resaw your timbers to 5/4 so that you can later deal with the bow, cup and twist that is bound to result from resawing timbers of that length.

   Anyplace that sells good hardwood will have a decent mill with a good sawyer on hand. I think you will be much happier in the long run.

    

8. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 18, 2006 04:13pm | #20

   I suggest that you also check the posts to "Infeed/Outfeed etc.

   Jerry

1. 
   wajacobs | Apr 18, 2006 05:59pm | #21

   Thanks all for the suggestions, I never thought of sending it to a sawyer to have it resawn, I'm into a new challange but the safety issue is a concern I'd definately have one possibly two guys helping me feed the boards through but if a sawyer can do it better, well then...   Anybody know of a reputable sawyer in Los Angeles?  This project still hasn't began, I've temporarily cancled my bandsaw order and am trying to convince my girlfriend that it is her idea to build a new garage that I will reluctantly agree to.  Infeed/Outfeed forums  ...where do I find these?

    

   -w