Replies

1. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 12, 2004 09:43pm | #1

   If you're careful, you can get it out of 5/4. Cut to length, face joint and plane, then  joint one edge and resaw.

2. 
   JohnWW | Feb 12, 2004 09:52pm | #2

   By the time you get done, two pieces cut out of 4/4 will be thinner than half an inch.  You'll need 5/4 or 6/4 to get two pieces that finish out to a true 1/2 inch.

   Usually I clean up and square a piece of wood before I resaw, but I wouldn't worry about getting it perfect, all of the surfaces will probably need to be replaned after the resawing anyway.  Mostly I clean up the rough wood before resawing because it is a lot easier to slide the planed surfaces against the fence and table.

   John W.

   
   

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   Edited 2/12/2004 1:53:09 PM ET by JohnW

3. 
   CharlieD | Feb 12, 2004 10:36pm | #3

   The straightness of your original stock will also have a lot to do with how much waste you have. For twist bow and crook, cutting your pieces to approxiamate length first will reduce waste, but that won't help with cup. Plan ahead, choose your stock well, and you can probably get away wiht 5/4. Now, do the drawers have to be exactly 1/2"? Or as long as all parts are the same, could you get away with, say, 7/16?

   Charlie

   I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
4. 
   RMillard | Feb 12, 2004 11:03pm | #4

   Firewood,

   I resaw my drawer sides from rough sawn 5/4 material, I hated the waste of planing down 4/4 stock. With some luck you could resaw 5/4 S4S material and get two ½" thick pieces, but this is cutting it close. The problem is even if your 5/4 stock is dead flat, it will usually cup after resawing, requiring you to flatten and thickness it. This is because the interior often has a higher moisture content that the faces, not to mention casehardening from improper kiln drying

   I resaw the rough stock just as it comes off the rack. If it is cupped I put the concave side towards the bandsaws fence. After sawing I stack it up with stickers, for a day or more, so the wood can decide where it wants to go, then I mill it.

   Rob Millard

5. 
   Arby | Feb 13, 2004 07:29am | #5

   use five quarter stuff to get half inch resawn.  Unless you're doing casework and using drawer slides do you really need half inch drawer sides?  I was trained to use the minimum thickness that will do the job, which in my case is three eighths or less and I can easily get it out of four quarter stuff

1. 
   BG | Feb 13, 2004 03:12pm | #6

   Firewood,

   I agree with Arby and everything else that has been said.  If you can do it, less than half inch thick sides look better in many cases also... 

2. 
   tcbaldmtn | Feb 13, 2004 04:39pm | #7

   This is the first time building drawers.  I plan on getting drawer slides from Rockler.  Will the thinner stock still work or will I need to make 1/2" sides?

1. 
   DougF | Feb 13, 2004 06:00pm | #8

   Firewood,

   Using draw slides on thin stock simpy requires shorter screws than may be supplied with the slide units.  I would use longer screws through the bottom of the slides and several short screws to secure the slides to the sides althopugh the bottom screws are usually sufficient.  Unless the draws are going to hold alot of weight or are very wide, 3/8 should be more than adequate and more pleasing to the eye.  If you are planning on using a dovetail jig for the draw joinery, you might check the manual since there may be some tickness limitations for the half blind cuts. 

   Doug

2. 
   Arby | Feb 15, 2004 05:00am | #9

   I agree with the above reply to your question.  Find screws that will work.