Replies

1. 
   b1gcountry | Dec 10, 2002 10:17pm | #1

   With the TS, the thin pieces can get stuck against the fence and kick back. This isn't so much of a problem with a BS. If you keep the thin piece on the fence, you won't have to reset your fence each time to get the same thickness. You should though, joint the piece after each resaw. When you keep the lumber against the fence, you will have to reset the fence for each piece you cut. You will also get a piece of veneer with saw marks on both sides instead of one. But you will have the same face against the fence all the time. I'd probably go with the first one.

   Tom

2. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 11, 2002 01:24am | #2

   The resawing I have done has been with the veneer between the fence and the blade.  I plane the cut side after each cut, so that each veneer piece always has one truly flat face.  Even with the veneer on the fall side, I would plane after each rip.  I say plane and not joint because I have started with jointed (face and edge) and planed stock.  If you joint after the first resaw cut, you may end up with a parallelogram. 

1. 
   johnhardy | Dec 11, 2002 02:35am | #3

   Thanks. Both you and big country sugggest what I've seen in the articles, and the idea to plane before additional resawing is a good one.

   However, I've got a carbide blade and the cut is very, very smooth. One of the ideas is to conserve lumber. I was going to abrasive plane both sides of the veneer when done, which wouldn't take as much stock away as true planing after each resaw operation. Does this make sense?

   John

1. 
   hmthomas | Dec 11, 2002 04:12am | #4

   John,

   I like to cut with the veneer side against the fence. I also plane after each cut so that I have a smooth face against the fence for the next cut.  Depending on your project you may want to glue the planed face down and then plane the veneer once the glue has set up. I've had success glueing mahogany over MDF and then running the "new board" through the planner to finish what was the cut edge. This takes out any irregularities in the finished board. I've seen some of your chessboards and think you could use this method in making them.

   Good Luck, Hugh

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 11, 2002 05:18am | #6

   One argument for cutting with the veneer away from the fence is that if you drift away from the fence, for whatever unfortunate reason, your veneer gets thicker instead of thinner.

2. 
   johnhardy | Dec 11, 2002 06:04am | #8

   Thanks for the input and for the compliment on my chessboards.

   The chessboards are actually not veneered. I use full lumber ... at least I have in the past. I may change, but even if I do I'll still make them as if they were full lumber. I'd glue the veneer to MDF and then cut it and join it as full lumber. I wouldn't cut individual squares and glue them up. I'd never get the precision I'd need. But that's another topic and another thread.

   I think everybody has convinced me to put the veneer between the fence and the blade. I'll try both but that was my first inclination, and is what I'll most assuredly end up doing.

   By the way, some test cuts using the Laguna 18" BS and a 1" carbide blade were very impressive. I was able to get very fine veneer out of 8/4 walnut, with almost no teeth marks. This was done on the fall away side, but would have been the same up against the fence.

   John

2. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 11, 2002 06:06pm | #9

   I favor abrasive planing the rough side after the veneer is applied to the base. I would still plane after each cut. If there is a bit of tearout, so what as this is the down side anyway. Are you going to apply using a gap filing glue, such as Unibond 800 in a vacuum press? If not, then definitely put the planed side down, IMHO.

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 12, 2002 10:04am | #10

   What if ....

   You're re-sawing something that won't go through the garden variety planer?

   For instance -

   Draw two parallel lines up the outside of a cylinder (helixes, in other words). At the top of the cylinder extend each line out into space along an imaginary plane, still keeping them parallel.

   Now you've got in essence a curved handrail or stair stinger going to a landing.

   Now 'flatten out' the strip between the two parallel lines. You've got the flat pattern development for the first step in forming a compound curve out of laminations.

   Rip several thin pieces the width of the rail or stringer. Build forms for steam bending these pieces (the flat pattern layout), steam, glue and clamp all the pieces to achieve the required depth of the member.

   Now you've got an intentionally crooked piece of laminated lumber. The object now is to resaw it vertically to produce laminations for bending around a cylindrical form to produce the finished product - railing and/or stinger.

   This shape would be difficult to plane after each cut. Given a good quality (carbide) blade and orbital sanding plus a good gap filling glue, would that suffice?

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 12, 2002 04:03pm | #11

   When I have done that, I have jointed both sides to start with then resaw a thin strip from first one side then the other, and then re-joint both sides and do the next two strips.  I tack a dowel cut down the middle onto the guide board.  This allows some lateral movement to account for drift.  The thin strips would be between the guide and the blade.  By doing it this way, one side of each strip has been jointed, requiring 1/2 as much sanding.  Also, don't have to reset the guide each time.  I use my overhead drum sander for the sanding.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

3. 
   RW | Dec 11, 2002 05:08am | #5

   Might suggest looking at the type of fences that are basically nothing more than a point about which the piece rests and pivots. Am thinking Rocklers sells them, though they surely arent the only ones. Keeps you from having to monkey with a straight fence like a tablesaw getting it perfectly in line with the blade. On a resaw blade, the blade itself seems wide enough that coupled with a reasonable eye, the cuts stay straight.

   "There is always inequity in life. Some men are killed in war and some men are wounded, and some men never leave the country. Life is unfair"  J.F.Kennedy

4. 
   WoodBeaver | Dec 11, 2002 05:34am | #7

   I think that you should do what you feel most confident doing.

   I use the band saw the same way that I use the table saw. Required stock between the fence and the blade! No variation in veneer thickness then.

   Thats just the way I'd do it.

   WoodBeaver