In the recent issue of FWW (#159), John White discusses modifications to a 14″bandsaw to enable resawing. I followed his suggestions with my Jet but have two questions( since I am still having problems). His technique is the cut piece is done from the inside ( between his auxiliary fence and the blade); why not make the cut from the outside of the blade? Second question is after all the setup ( including setting correction for drift-approximately 3/4″)why is my blade bowing in towards the fence/material seems to push away from the fence? Someone told me I still haven’t gotten the drift correction corrected- I used a piece of scrap pine (about 1/2’x2″)to set the drift but maybe I need a thicker piece of hardwood?
Thanks for any advice.
Replies
I am a novice and only beginning to do some resawing, so take it for what it's worth, but, it sounds like at least part of the problem is insufficient tension on the blade. If your machine won't properly tension a wide blade (not sure what type of blade you're using), you might try resawing with something narrower.
matt
I am using a Woodslicer blade (1/2") and have fully tensioned it; I thought tension was the problem as well, but a tech rep. (from whom I ordered a new spring) said tension was not the problem. His suggestion was that the fence might not be set properly for drift (although I had shimmed it 3/4").
Sailalex,
How have you determined the amount of drift that your saw and current blade generate?
If you replaced your tensioning spring with one from ther machine's manufacturer, it is still possible that you are not tensioning your blade adequately. Original equipment springs are notoriously inadequate in this regard. Iturra (sp?) sells a heavy duty spring that is MUCH better than most originals.
This kind of discussion almost always gets into favorites about blade brand. I like Timberwolf blades which generally don't require as much tensioning as other blades. Is your current blade new, and are you sure it's sharp?
R
Edited 11/23/2002 1:00:24 PM ET by Rich Rose
Unfortunately, that article was somewhat lacking in information. I recommend you get a copy of one of bandsaw books by Mark Duginske or Lonnie Bird. They will give you the other info you need to tune up, setup, choose the correct blade and deal with things like the dreaded "barrel cut". It's a setup problem generally with the thrust bearing and the type of blade.
The reason for slicing on the inside is so you don't have to keep changing the fence for multiple rips.
You might want to consider a single point fence. It allows for drift and you can crab your work into the blade to get a good straight cut.
http://www.ilovewood.com/fence2.jpg
Stephen
How thin can someone reasonalbly expect to resaw with a 14" bandsaw?
Don
Thanks for all the input; I will try to answer the questions. I have used Lonnie Bird's book to set drift but I am going back to try it again; I may have used to small a piece of material. I am using a relatively new Wood Slicer blade recommended by Bird in his book.I have ordered the Iturro spring but as mentioned before, the tech rep said he didn't think the bowing I was getting was from the tension. My understanding is that you should be able to cut veneer (1/32") through resawing.
Sailalex,
I believe you are on the right path. You're aware of all of the factors involved here. Lonnie Bird's book is as good as it gets for providing instruction and insight into this kind of thing.
Resawing sometimes is like playing a musical instrument. Once you get all the things working together, blade tension, hand coordination, feed rate, drift compensation, it will be hard NOT to do it right.
But I still think that blade tension is the key. Also the condition of the blade is very important. Even though your blade is new, there could be something wrong there. Sometimes switching to ANY other blade makes a world of difference.
R
Also chech you blade speed and make sure your blade guides are set so they don't touch the teeth during cutting. It sounds like you did a full tune up which sure does help.
Jim
Don, I recently cut 10" wide x 7' long mahogany boards into 1/8" "veneers". I glued them to both sides of MDF for a bed. I glued one side at a time then ran the boards through the planer for a clean up then glued on the other side and repeated the process. It worked great. I did it on my 14" Delta w/ riser block.
I did take awhile with the set up but it was worth it. Saved alot of wood & $$. If I didn't tell, nobody would know the difference.
Experiment with cheaper wood then give it a try.
Hugh
Guess I just need more practice. I'd feel comfortable at 1/4", but any thinner?? It would seem that if 1/4" can be done, 1/8 would be no problem either. Well, what seems and what is don't always jive!
Don
Don,
I like to keep my veneer cuts between 1/8" - 3/16". That way I have a bit of play if I mess up during the resawing. I can sand or plane everything down flat without loosing the veneer thickness. I have done lots of it that way and it works fine for me.
I have no problem with 1/8" slices with a 1/2" olson resaw blade on my Jet 14". In fact, I can slice even thinner but I like to work with 1/8" material.
I struggled with an 18" band saw & finally got enough tension on the blade. Also bought a 1" carbide blade and it did a LOT OF GOOD THINGS. The guy in Florida & American saw helped a LOT.
Sailalex,
You said you already ordered the high tension spring from Iturra. Well, you will also need the spinner they sell which comes with a higher strength nut gauge. When I bought Iturra's tension spring, the Jet's knob was very difficult to turn. I noticed metal shavings on the bottom of the tension rod and came to find out it was from the factory nut gauge's threads being eaten away by the turning motion of the knob. I called Iturra and ordered their spinner for $39 plus shipping and has solved the problem. It is very easy to tension and detension the blade now. I would recommend anyone with a 14" Jet to throw away the tension knob and nut and replace it with Iturra's spinner. A Carter tension release is next.
Marcello
Marcello,
I did order a "Quik-Crank"tensioner with the Iturro spring; Highland Hardware in Atlanta handles them both.
SAILALEX,
I too have a "14 band saw and I have struggled for years triing to resaw material I never seemed to have any luck until one day I decided to run both edges of the material through the tablesaw first I cut through as far as the tablesaw blade will allow then I finish on the bandsaw then I run the peice of material through the surface planer but if the peice is to thin I'll either use a belt sander or a random orbital sander to even the stock up. Since doing it this I've given up trying to use just the bandsaw alone maybe I'll try again when I can afford "18 or bigger bandsaw so I can put a "3 resaw blade on it.
Good Luck and Happy Dust Making,
JIM C the"PUTTERIN YANKEE"woodworking shop
Doc, I tried that once but , of course you have to remove the guard and kickback pawls. I tried it on a short piece and got a kickback that almost went through my garage wall. I have been reluctant to try it again but maybe a longer piece that has gone through the jointer would be okay?
SAILALEX, I'm sorry to hear you had such problems resawing in this fashion.In fact it was quite a suprise to me that you did becouse I've never had any kind of problems. I always thought it was safer than just the bandsaw becouse the tablesaw cut some wider releifs so the blade of the bandsaw couldn't bind. But the most important thing is that you or no one else was hurt. I've experienced torpedo wood in the shop infact I have a hole in the drywall from where a peice of stock went shooting out of the radial arm saw that was the first and the last time I ever tried to rip stock using this tool. Well good luck to you and most importantly be safe.
JIM C the"PUTTERIN YANKEE"woodworking shop
Since I started this thread I would like to report that I have achieved a great resaw on my 14" Jet bandsaw. I am now convinced it can be done. I had to adjust the newly made auxiliary fence for drift of 1 3/8" which seemed a lot but it worked. I also added an Iturra spring and that improved the tension considerably. After all the adjustments, I went back and reset all the guides. Thanks for all the tips from the forum.
Great, glad to hear it's all come together for you. I was looking at motors yesterday thinking that maybe the 3/4 hp on mine along with my lack of experience resawing put together make for my bad expereinces. Next step will be to double hp I think. thanks for starting the post, learned alot.
Don
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