The just recent post about the quality of different brands of router bits had just one mention the resharpening of router bits. I have at least a dozen bits that need resharpening.
I would like feedback on the pros and cons of resharpening router bits. I know of only one person in my area who can sharpen router bits, but I know nothing about the quality of his work. I would certainly be glad to ship them to a person or company who can do them right. If not done right, they will burn one’s work. I would rather bite the bullit and purchase new rather than take a chance on someone I do not know.
BTY, the post to which I referred is mostly feedback on the best brands available. My vote is for Whiteside first and Freud second.
Replies
It's your money. But if it were mine, I'd always send them out for re-sharpening instead of buying new every time they get dull.
All you need is a sharpener who knows carbide.
In addition to the type of carbide manufacturers use, how they braze it on and how they sharpen it, one of the big differences between inexpensive bits and professional level bits is the thickness of the carbide. Professional bits will stand up to many more sharpenings. Sharpening will decrease the size but it is inconsequential for most bits. Check the yellow pages in the closest large city or call a few cabinet shops to see where they have their sharpening done. Router bits are easy to mail. Some sharpening services have pick up locations in smaller towns.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
A regrind is good economy and a smart move. Grind quality is never as good as new, however. The grinder hasn't the time to hit all of the places that the factory grinders did to create the thing. It is acceptable, nevertheless.
Routers
You might also consider insert tooloing router bits. I buy from http://www.hersaf.com and http://www.ridgecarbidetool.com Mostly for pattern cutting but it's definitely cheaper in the long run. On some I modify the bit by adding a bearing to the shaft above the cutter. Very few folks even seem to know about Hersaf unless in larger production shops. In our shop we find the consisitent diameter to be critical in pattern bits. Insert tooling actually cost less in the long term even if the start up cost is a higher.
Whiteside and Freud are ok. There's other brands just as good if not even better than Whiteside and Freud. Amana, Gudho, Liberty, Onsrud, Gladu and others make excellent bits. There's also diamond tipped router bits which are pricey but last many times longer than carbide.
LRH is also an excellent maker of industrial router bits. Their custom bits are exceptional.
I would say that it takes someone that knows more than just how to sharpen carbide. I have had some bits ruined by poor workmanship when being resharpened.
One drawback to resharpening is if you have a guide bearing on the bit. Resharpening reduces the cutting diameter.
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
That was the point of suggesting insert tooling to main the diameter of pattern bits. I know aboutr LRH and many others but didn't see the point of listing all the bit makers out there. Been in the business 35 years and work in purchasing, tech support and machine repair. I deal with custom tooling all the time. I'm having a 36" custom blade made for our large radial arm saw by Dinosaw in NY state.
Try the Hersaf bits. I modofy them to pattern bits by adding a bearing and locking collar. Hersaf bits are unlike any other router bits.
I have used Hersaf cutters. They are quality industrial bits and have worked well for me. They are available here in Portland, Oregon through Barbo Machinery.
I thought about mentioning them earlier too. And yes, insert tooling is really great if the initial cost can be justified.
I only mentioned LRH because they have done fantastic work for me when I have had them make custom router bits.
Hal
Thanks to all who have posted. I am going to print copies for review in a few days. Right now I am trying to drain a swamp without the gators getting me.
BTY, I do not know how my post appeared in "gallery". Really have to start getting to bed earlier.
Hey Cool, I have been sharpening my own bits for over 20 years, and it is a snap to do free-hand for anyone with a good eye and touch. I spend less than a minute to sharpen one, and I never put a bit inmy router without inspecting it under good light with magnification, and sharpening it if it has any flaws.Before I bought this diamond wheel, the local carbide services would gladly sharpen them for me, however their wheel was so coarse that if you drug a fingernail along the edge, there would be a lot of drag from the rasping action of that fractured striated edge. That was just totally unacceptable to me, so I spent a couple of hundred bucks for a wheel back then, and got one that would put a super sharp finish on the edge. Before buying it I had a discussion with the local sharpener hoping to talk them into getting a finer wheel. They were not interested, because it would take longer to sharpen, and the blades would not come back as often, and most shops just didn't complain. So when you read a remark as someone above said, It will never be as good as new, that is true if you send it to someone who only has a coarse or medium grit wheel, but if you find someone with a really good set-up and fine diamonds, there is no reason that they should not be as good as new.I see that you are in MS, so you might be interested in trying Memphis Machine, they are fairly close and although I have not used them for router bits, I do like their sharpening for saw blades.
"Before I bought this diamond wheel, the local carbide services would gladly sharpen them for me,"
Please elaborate. What wheel did you buy and at what cost. I do not run a professional shop and do not have a lot of bits to resharpen. Mine is a single woodworker shop. I only take 4-5 jobs a year.
Thank you for your reply.
Just a safety note ! Carbide dust is a health hazard, much more so than wood dust. Just read that recently but can't remember where.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I can't make out the numbers on my wheel, but I do have a MSC catalog, and when I looked in it, I think what I have is no longer available, but the nearest thing to it, or what I would recommend is Part # 03582129 for $127, with a 1/16" x 1/4" wide Diamond Dish Wheel. This is shaped like a small plate, 6" dia. with the 1/4" wide cutting face on the TOP if you were to think of it as a plate sitting on a table, not on the outer rim.There is also another with a 3/8" wide face for $176. Part #03582368. Both of these are 220 grit, and that does not relate to sandpaper, or other grinding medium.Mine actually has 1/8" of diamond thickness, but after 20 something years, it is still almost that thick, and there are times that I would like to have a finer edge thickness if I want to touch up a chipped tooth on a fine tooth blade, the gullet is quiet small on some of those blades.Here is ####link that may get you close in the MSC catalog, and there may be a 320 grit, which is what I think I have.http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/IMLMKDAs I said earlier, I grind them free-hand, it is just so easy to touch the bit to the wheel back from the edge a little, then gently lay it flat against the face, then start moving it around to get an even grind on the face, maybe adding a little extra pressure and changing the angle a little for getting nicks out.
I often want to get rid of some of the sharpness angle on larger diameter bits anyway since I use mostly hardwoods, they will cut better with less splitting down the grain, and stay sharp longer to.Also you should do a search here with my name and koolmist sprayer if you get a wheel.good luck, and I hope this helps. K
If you decide to try resharpening what you have, check out Ballew Saw & Tool.
http://ballewsaw.com/
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