Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 26, 2005 01:02am | #1

   Well, the only time I sand lacquer is for the first one or two thinned coats.  Then I just dry sand it with 400 grit paper and use a blow gun and a dry rag to remove the dust.  The last coats are not sanded.  I let it cure for several days then buff it out with a lambs wool bonnet on a buffer running at slow speed.  Or,  I use 0000 steel wool by hand to buff it out then do the final buffing by hand or buffer.

   I have never wet sanded lacquer and I don't think one should.  But having never done it, I guess I can't really say though!  Wet sanding with water might cause the lacquer to turn milky colored.

   I used to use lacquer sealer under lacquer, but lately I been using dewaxed shellac for the sealer.

   Probably your best bet now would be to apply another coat.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

2. 
   EarlKelly | Aug 26, 2005 01:06am | #2

   I can't imagine a residue left after all you've done! Are you sure it's just not the lustre showing? It should not be glossy, should be a shiney satin.

   Need some ???'s answered first. Type and or brand of Laq? How much did you put on, how many coats? Did you use a sealer? How do you want your end product to look, rubbed satin or glossy?

   Maybe this will help you get the finish you want.

   Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
1. 
   dperfe | Aug 26, 2005 02:38am | #3

   I used Deft spray lacquer, comes in the spray cans. I put 7 coats on and let it cure for 2 weeks. I was following the procedure to get a nice rubbed look, as laid out in the book "Understanding Wood Finishing". I did not use a sealer. Perhaps it wasn't sanded enough prior to staining and finishing. The project is a fireplace mantle with lots of routered edging. The residue isn't everywhere, just in about a 1/4 of it. The top of the mantle looks fine, nice and flat and smooth, but the middle section with a heavy crown molding going the length of the mantle is just terrible.thanks,
   dp

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 26, 2005 05:31am | #4

   Are you looking for a gloss finish or a satin finish?  For satin, just apply a coat of paste wax using a white scotchbrite pad.  Buff and enjoy.

   If you want more of a gloss, you will have to do more work.  After the 1200 W&D, use an automotive polishing compound applied with a power buffer or a buffing pad on your ROS.  Be sure to use polishing compound, not a rubbing compound.  Periodically wipe off the haze to see where you are.  Be careful about burning through the finish particularly along the edges.Howie.........

2. 
   EarlKelly | Aug 27, 2005 05:09pm | #7

   I think Howard has the best advice, just wax it with a scotchbrite white or Gray pad. The gray will make it a bit more satin. Use a furniture wax or floor type wax. I would use a dark brown if it suits your color.Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker

3. 
   joinerswork | Aug 27, 2005 01:25am | #5

   dperfe,

   I've had this problem with open grained woods when I haven't filled the pores.  Leveling the lacquer by sanding will sometimes embed the slurry into the pores, or the corner between a molding and what it's nailed to. Especially if there isn't a lot of finish there to begin with. Best treatment I've found is another coat of lacquer, or a quick wipe with lacquer thinner.  It helps to use a lubricant like petroleum jelly or a proprietary product  (wol-wax by star chemical comes to mind) when steel wooling lacquer, to prevent this as well.

   Regards,

   Ray

4. 
   cabinetMaker | Aug 27, 2005 01:35am | #6

   Try an automotive wax spray, like eagle one"wet look". I guarantee it.