Unfortunately for someone with a passion for wood, I have mild allergic respiratory response to dust. I would like to buy a respirator, but know nothing about them. For years I’ve used disposable masks, which fog up the safety glasses and often get neglected. Can the same respirator be used for sanding (dust) and fumes (finishing)? What brands are reputable? How much should replacment cartridges cost, and how long do they last? How comfortable is yours? Does the support interfere with safety glasses or hearing protection…in other words, if I am wearing respirator, ear protection and glasses are my ears really going to hurt after a while? I am also looking to buy ear muffs and doing away with the disposable ear plugs. Can I somehow protect my lungs, hearing and eyes in one system for a reasonable price? Lets say the current budget for earmuffs and respirator is $50. Thanks for any input. By the way, I do have a JDS air cleaner and attach my shop vac whenever possible. I haven’t found a way to collect dust with any effect on my contractor style table saw, nor when hand sanding.
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Replies
I recall FWW has done articles on such things recently. Companies such as http://www.northernsafety.com have technical folks to help answer your questions and will recommend the right products for your needs.
Dust respirators are not always the same as fume or chemical respirators. They look similar and you fit them the same way. Respirators should fit tightly around your face. You put it on and cover the inlet with your hand, you should not be able to take a breath with the inlet covered. You do the same with the outlet filters, cover them with your hands and try to breathe out. It the respirator fits, you won't have any air passing. There won't be any air leaking out and fogging glasses. This is the same check that you do with SCUBA gear, Scott Air Packs for fire fighting and other such apparatus.
Cartridges last, based on exposure. Dust cartridges can have a long life but chemical cartridges may only last a short time. Information is available through NIOSH. There are many different brands, Mine are 3M and Gerson
I prefer ear plugs to ear muffs. There are many different types, you have to find the style that you like. The best are custom made, these are the type musicians wear. Ear plugs also have to fit correctly. When putting them in, you reach over your head with one hand and pull up on your ear to open the canal. There are various levels of sound abatement depending on the type of plug and fit. The same is true for ear muffs. In extreme conditions, you may want to wear both.
Don't put a budget figure on safety and don't look for cheap deals. As motorcyclists like to say, if you have a $99 head, buy a $99 helmet.
You can help with dust collection on a contractor saw by closing off the open back. I've seen where there is a product available for sale, I made my own years ago. I have to remove it when I bevel the blade, which is infrequently. There are times when the saw makes a ton of dust above the table, especially if you make a skim cut. A blade guard with a dust collection port helps but they are expensive.
I have a loose 4" dust collector hose that I move around the shop as needed. I'll fix it to the workbench when hand sanding. Any dust collection system won't get all the fine stuff that you can't see and which does lung damage. A properly fitting respirator is your best defence.
If you have allergy problems, you may want to get some hair hoods and Tyvek suits, in addition to the respirator. There are some expensive units that provide fresh air, many body shops now use them. Some folks are only bothered by certain species, others get sensitized by any. Exotics, particularly the rosewood family, bother a lot of people. You may want to avoid certain species that effect you.
http://www.msasafetyworks.com/catalog/product1124.html
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/database.html
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thank your for an informative response. Do you use two separate respirators for fumes vs. dust, or just different cartridges? My biggest problem is fogging. I'll generally toss the mask first when I need to see good, because flying chips seems to pose a greater threat. I assume the good seal on a respirator solves this problem. I hang a hose above my table saw which takes care of much of the dust, but I can still see a stream of fine dost heading for the JDS unit, and I know there is more I can't see. Do most respirators readily accept standard cartridges? Would P100 cartridge stand for a filtering capibility or a size?
T,
To avoid fogging you need a powered respirator that uses a fan to suck dusty air through its filtration and into the (full face) mask. This forced clean-airflow exits the mask via a separate one-way valve. The flow of air within the mask prevents any fogging, either of the full face mask itself or of any spectacles you are wearing. (Full face masks provide lots of room for spectacles).
If you are a hairy-chop, the 'tache and beard are also accommodated.
One example is the Trend Airflow. I have one and it only has two drawbacks:
* The charger for the batteries is not modern and takes an age to recharge the cells.
* The batteries, filters and fan are all in headgear, from which the full face mask is hung, which makes the whole thing a bit top heavy if you need to bend over and look down. (It's fine for normal "straight-ahead" or "on the bench" work).
Other (more expensive) systems have the motor, filtration and batteries in a waist pack, with a hose to the mask, so the mask is a lot lighter and therefore more secure. A friend of mine with a severe allergy issue has one of these but it cost $200 more than the Trend. It is the dog's bollocks however.
Lataxe
You should think of respirators as the last line of defense. It's always best to control the saturation of the contaminant in the area, dust collection for saw dust, ventilation for solvents, etc. The cartridge type respirators come in half face as well as full face. There are some different materials for face comfort including silicone. Many are capable of using a variety of cartridges. A correct fit is the most important, or it just won't work. Typically they come in small, med. and lg. face sizes.There are three letters for cartridges, N for Not oil resistant, R for oil Resistant, and P for oil Proof. The numbers 95, 97 and 100 refer to the efficiency, 95%, 97%, 100%. P100 is oil proof with 100% efficiency (actually 99.97%). Cartridges also come specific to what you are protecting against, DM dust and mist, DFM dust, fumes and mist, organic vapor, acid, etc.. The finest particulate filter is the HEPA. One manufacturers cartridge won't normally fit anothers. Some offer a wide range of cartridges, some only a few. When it comes to toxins, gasses, acids and such, you need to have proper training. It's not as simple as picking a cartridge. I don't change my cartridges from dust to paint. I'm very careful with my paint respirator, I keep a record of use and put it away with the protective covers, in an air tight container, as soon as I'm finished using it. If the respirator fits you correctly, there won't be any air blowing by into your glasses. That's not to say you won't fog up in the right conditions from other factors. It's never comfortable to strap something on your face for hours. A basic half mask respirator is the least expensive way to get good protection, $40-$50. The ones I've used are quite comfortable for an hour or two. You will get a more comfortable, all day, fit with a full face but those will cost $130 and more. After that you get into self contained air supplies and fresh air systems.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Triton makes a eye shield/air filter unit with ear muffs and even a hard hat. The air filter/pump/batteries fastens on your belt.
DP
http://www.wardprobst.com
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