Replies

1. 
   lwj2 | Oct 02, 2004 08:56pm | #1

   I would, Art. You might not need more than a new cutter and possibly a chip breaker. Maybe not even that. Smoothing the sole to flat, cleaning up the frog, flattening the cutter and chip breaker can make a lot of difference by themselves.

   Hock Tools http://www.hocktools.com/ makes very good replacement cutters and chip breakers.

   Good luck.

   Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

1. 
   artnumber1 | Oct 03, 2004 11:37pm | #2

   Leon. Thanks for the reply. As I hadd mentioned, the sole plate still has some pitting, plus the eroded area in front of the throat. Since it is about (hard to measure) .005 to .010 deep, should I consider sanding it down that far? Also, it needs a new cap iron. So, with a new blade ($40) new rear handle would this be economicle? I can buy a new Record No 6 for what I would have in this one, plus a lot less work. Thanks again, Art

1. 
   lwj2 | Oct 04, 2004 02:03am | #3

   Art, when I rehabbed my older planes, I used silicon wet/dry paper from about 220 grit up to 400 with 3-n-1 oil as a lubricant and sanded/ground the soles until they were flat, stripped what was left of the lacquer off of the wood and re-finished them, re-painted the old japanning, polished the brass and chrome. There are a couple of small pits left in the sole, but I didn't take the sole down past true, so far no problems.

   I've been fortunate enough not to have to buy totes and knobs, although were I to purchase a new plane with plastic knob/tote, I'd get wooden ones to replace them, I prefer the feel.

   I prefer the heft and feel of older Baileys and am willing to devote the time to rehabbing them. I categorize it, if you will, as therapy. I do it in downtime, don't worry about when I'm going to finish the job and enjoy the results. The old No. 3 I rehabbed will take a 2-mil shaving in SY pine.

   Economically, I'd say that if you figure your time into it at shop rates, a new plane is cheaper.

   My take on it is that I now have several planes that are the equivalent of new Lie-Nielsen planes, probably for about the same money if I count in time. Mind you, I've "destroyed" the collector value of them.

   Good luck, enjoy it, whichever route you take.Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

1. 
   artnumber1 | Oct 05, 2004 05:41pm | #4

   Leon, thanks for the input. I like your comment about "therapy". I think I'll take your advice and ust work on it when I need the therapy. I guess a new cap ironand new blade are all that I will realy need.

   Thanks again, Art

1. 
   lwj2 | Oct 06, 2004 02:20am | #5

   Beats the heck out of setting a deadline, Art.

   Too many of them in real life. Imposing them on what's enjoyable rapidly makes it a chore instead of a pleasure.

   Besides, you can always buy stuff to add as you see fit.

   There's something really satisfying about taking a tool that needs work and fixing it up so it's better than it was when new.

   Enjoy!!Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

2. 
   artnumber1 | Oct 08, 2004 12:47am | #6

   Going back to your comments about refinishing Leon. I assume that the black finish is the japaning you refered to. How should it be removed and refinished? Some of it is rough and could do with removal. What is the japaning finish, and where to get new stuff?

   Thanks again, Art

3. 
   lwj2 | Oct 08, 2004 03:58am | #7

   Art, I wire-brushed it then used a paint remover to get rid of the rest of what would come off. (Probably Red Devil, it was handy.)

   What remained I hit with some 220 grit to feather the edges and then used either Krylon or Rustoleum spray gloss black on it. Scuffed it with a grey woven pad between coats, put three or four on. Last coat I baked in the oven on "warm" (about 170°F in mine) for a day.

   It's not a work of art, but it won't rust easily. I'm more of a 'function' kind of person anyhow. If you spray it, tape over the runners for the frog, the exterior sides and the sole with masking tape, trim it with an Exacto knife, before you spray. If you bake it, pull the tape off first.

   Good luck.Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

4. 
   artnumber1 | Oct 09, 2004 09:01pm | #8

   Leon, thanks again, Art

5. 
   lwj2 | Oct 10, 2004 06:27am | #9

   You're welcome, Art. Hope my maunderings were of some use or interest.

   Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

6. 
   doodabug | Jun 18, 2005 01:50am | #10

   I read the japanning is baked on black varnish. If you mess with it the you mess with the value as Leon Jester stated. I touched mine up with a marks-a-lot. Doesn't look great but it looks better.

7. 
   artnumber1 | Jun 19, 2005 03:39am | #11

   Thanks to all for the notes/caution. Since I'll only be using it myself, I'm not concerned about the 'antique' value.

   Art

   Edited 6/18/2005 8:43 pm ET by Art