Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Nov 24, 2005 07:48pm | #1

   Hi Adam... I'd probably attack the mildew first. If it's only on the surface, try a scraper to remove as much of the mildew as possible then scrub the affected areas with a stiff brush and chlorox bleach. A good dose of sunshine will also help. If you feel that the oily stains are not too deep, just a bench scraper should clean up the area. You're probably going to refinish the top, so why not start in 'that' area. If you think the oil has sunk in, one of my favorite tricks is to sprinkle 'kitty litter' over the oil and wet (not soak) it with laquer thinner. The liquid loosens the oil while the kitty litter absorbs it. After the area is dampened, rub the kitty litter over the oily spot. Use some moderate pressure. Two or three applications should remove most of the oil, the laquer thinner will evaporate. SawdustSteve, Long Island, NY

2. 
   Ricks503 | Nov 25, 2005 12:09am | #2

   You will probably need to flatten the top as well and after taking care of the mildew as mentioned previously, I would try flattening it before dealing with the oil stains - they may come out or become easier to remove after the flattening.  I seem to recall a discussion on ways to flatten a bench top - try using the advanced search feature

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   aronson | Nov 27, 2005 04:24pm | #3

   Steve and Rick,Thanks for the suggestions!One more thing (maybe I should start a separate topic)... The bench dog holes are worn out and are now much too big for standard squared (not round) dogs. A pair of squared dogs I have fall right through the existing holes. What is the best way to approach 'fixing' this issue? I also prefer the 3/4" round dogs (like the Veritas type) as I have been using in my existing bench for some time and have an investment in them.My inclination is to consider filling in the existing dog holes with scrap maple and then re-drill new 3/4" holes. Am I nuts? Any additional suggestions?Thanks!
   Adam

1. 
   Ricks503 | Nov 27, 2005 05:47pm | #4

   to fix the square ones, I would glue in shims, to convert over to round, I would do as you thought - just remember to keep the grain oriented with that of the bench.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

1. 
   aronson | Nov 27, 2005 06:24pm | #5

   Rick,Thanks (again) for the reply. I did not consider adding shims (duh).As for plugging the squared holes (my somewhat stubborn preference) and matching the grain direction... This would require me to glue in the plugs in such a way as to create an end grain to end grain glue joint. In this scenario would this be a deterent? Any suggestions on how to do this so it will work? And, if I go ahead (again, stubbornly) in this direction would I get better results from resin or yellow glue?Adam

2. 
   rod | Nov 28, 2005 05:17am | #6

   You might try making some new bench dogs that are a little larger than the ones you have. There are some pictures of two different types of wood bench dogs on page 108 of Scott Landis's book "The Workbench Book". Probably your dog holes are not all the same size which may mean you need several sizes of dogs.
   Rod

3. 
   highfigh | Dec 31, 2005 07:30am | #9

   If you want to save time when pugging the holes, you could make a guide for a Forstner bit that's bigger than the square holes, then buy or turn some dowels of the correct size and cut them just over the actual depth. If you want the new holes in the same location, just center the Forstner bit in the existing hole.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 02, 2006 01:30am | #10

   If there isn't any metal in the top, remove it an run through the table saw to cut out the dog holes. Glue in a replacement strip or just glue the two remaining pieces together. If you're interested in square wood dogs, which I prefer, you can more easily make them in the replacement strip before gluing the pieces back together.

3. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 05, 2005 02:32am | #7

   I would agree with Rod.  In talking with a couple of folks about building my first traditional bench, each one recommended using wood dogs, not metal.  Cheap, and they don't damage the plane blade like a metal one does.

   In this case, you can trim/square up the holes you have and make dogs to fit.

   Alan - planesaw

4. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 24, 2005 07:14am | #8

   I'd start with a metal detector (just in case there are nails, screws, etc., anywhere in the top), a pair of winding sticks, and a hand plane; you'll remove a lot of grease, oil, and other contaminants while you flatten the top.

   Have you thought of filling the bench dog holes by gluing in opposing wedges?

   Good luck,

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie