I inherited this wooden jointer from my wife’s granddad who was actually a carpenter in Switzerland before WWII and in Denmark after the war, he died some 24 years ago !!
As you can see from the photos. Some work needs to be done. I have worked a little on the irons as they were very bad. But they need a lot more to come up to speed.
It seems the plane has been used a lot since the sole has some sort of cut out. I guess it was made to adjust the mouth with different insert or simply to overcome wear and tear. The bottom of this cutout is not completely flat and has some old glue on it.
Could I rout the sole to get a flat bed for an insert ? Make a matching insert of some hardwood and glue it in before lapping the sole ?
I am not sure of the make of this plane. W & P – WARD – could it be Ward & Payne of Sheffield, England. Does anyone know this manufacturer and have an estimate of how old this plane could be ?
Besides from fixing the irons, making an insert for a new mouth and lapping the sole, what else could/should be done to make this plane do a nice job and last a long time ?
How about the wooden body and cleaning ? Will it benefit and what is the best way to clean it if necessary ?
Thanks in advance for all information, help and advise !
Ole
…. I Love the smell of sawdust in the morning….
Replies
The iron is Ward and Pane of Sheffield.
It looks like several mouth inserts have been installed on this plane and someone removed the last one. Probably because it had been attached with screws and they needed to tune it a little. It was common to do this with another plane. In which case, it's wise to remove the screws. You can make and install another but keep the grain orientation the same as the rest of the plane and use hide glue to secure it.
Is there a maker's mark on the toe?
Larry Williams
Ole,
I only looked at one of your files (slow internet connection). Plane looks like an old Mosely plane, looking at the handle, but I could easily be wrong here. Look for the maker's mark as detailed in Larry's post and below.
Larry makes/sells very good quality wooden planes and you can't go wrong with his advice. I have a few years experience with wooden planes, but nowhere near Larry's expertise
To clean up wooden planes, I use a mixture of one part metholated spirits, one part white spirit, one part boiled linseed oil and 1/4 part white vinegar. This is applied with a bit of elbow grease and an old T-shirt as a rubber.
I think US terms for metholated spirits and white spirit are "denatured alcohol" and "paint thinner".
The maker's mark that Larry refers to is stamped into the toe of the plane. Sometimes this is obscured by layers of grime. Cleaning with the above mixture should bring out the details, providing that they haven't been obscured by indiscriminate hammer blows.
To use the plane:
First put the plane onto a flat surface (hardwood scrap or MDF), then put the blade into the plane and the wedge in finger tight.
Now tap the wedge in firmly (NOT too hard) with a small wooden (preferably) mallet or 6oz hammer. Blade should protrude out of the bottom of the plane slightly.
The small button ahead of the mouth of the plane is a strike button. Strike this with a wooden hammer to retract the blade slightly. Tap the heel of the iron to push the iron out further (high tech, huh!?!).
To take the wedge out, turn the plane upside down, hold the blade and wedge into the plane with your left hand and tap the heel of the plane with the hammer. A few taps and the wedge should loosen. Your hand is there to stop the blade from falling onto your feet.
All this is of course, done after you replace the mouth.
Cheers,
eddie
A good book which clearly explains how to fix up your plane is "Restoring, Tuning and Using Classic Woodworking Tools" by Michael Dunbar. Recommended.
I have restored numerous wooden planes using the following:
1. Clean the wood using a thick mixture of powdered Tide detergent and water, scrubbed with a course cloth, and keeping exposure time to a minium. Oddly, this does not raise the grain on beech wood planes.
2. After the wood is completely dry, saturate all surfaces with RAW linseed oil, let it soak in and wipe the surface dry at intervals until not more oil comes to the surface. Repeat the oiling process every year or so. This process will enhance the patina and raw linseed oil leaces no gloss or fill on the surface.
3. I use ebony as inserts to close the mouth, as it contrasts well with beech and has great durability.
4. If the sole is badly damaged or distorted, take an extremely light pass on a joiner and lap flat with fine sandpaper on glass.
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