Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Sep 18, 2004 04:49pm | #1

   I'm not sure what manufacturers originally used on their handles but most I own did not last long. Over the years I have refinished many with a variety of products. Shellac does not stand up long, boiled linseed offers little protection and can feel gummy, polys and spar varnish leave something to be desired. I just re-finished a few plane handles and used tung oil. I buffed them with 0000 steel wool and paste waxed them after a couple applications of the oil. They will be easy to re-coat in the future and they feel like natural polished wood in the hand. Of course this method is for users, not valuable antiques.

   Beat it to fit Paint it to match
1. 
   alanplanesaw | Sep 19, 2004 10:13pm | #4

   Hammer,

   First, I love your closing quote:  Beat it to fit.....

   Question.  When you say tung oil, do you mean REAL tung oil, or do you mean what Formbys or Minwax calls tung oil?

   thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   hammer1 | Sep 20, 2004 08:00am | #10

   I used some Formbys that was on the shelf, before it got too hard. I'm cheap and lazy too. If I have to go buy something and then work it for hours, it ain't going to happen. At least not for a user tool handle.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 19, 2004 07:10am | #2

   I use my hand saw a lot. I coat a new handle once with BLO and then never touch it again. The saw is sharpened regularly and the blade gets cleaned during the sharpening process. Other than that, its strictly blood, sweat, tears and good old grime that coat my saw handles. Its rare that I ever break one and I think that is partly due to me keeping it sharp.

   No disrespect but I'm proud when someone say's "That saw has seen a lot of use". Never found too much pride in someone saying how shinny and clean my saw was. My car or kitchen floor yes, my saw no..

   Another thing I do is take the handle off when I send it in for sharpening. This way they clean the blade for me without damaging the handles a-natural finish.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Sep 19, 2004 10:17pm | #5

   Toolguy,

   I like your idea of removing the handle when you send the saw to be sharpened.  When you say "new" handle do you mean a brand-spanking new handle or do you mean new to you? 

   The handle I have has been in the weather.  Not a bit of finish.  Gray wood.  BLO seems to be at least what I start with.  I am not interested in restoring the handle to new as much as I am making it last, and look at least decent.

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 20, 2004 04:45am | #9

   Alan, new means one that I make as a replacement for one that is plumb all worn out. When they get loose and I can't keep them tight anymore, I make a new one.Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

3. 
   Clay | Sep 19, 2004 11:06am | #3

   I like to use several coats of Breakthrough clear satin.  I thin it about 25% with water and tint it to a transparent orangish, tannish, or cherry hue.  It makes a durable finish with a nice feel.  I especially like the way that it works on thirsty wood.  It soaks in and hardens up the surface nicely.  I am attaching a picture of a nice pie server that I rescued from the Goodwill store just down the street.  It had nice hardwood in the handle but was grayed and a little fuzzy from too many dishwasher cycles.  I sanded it a bit polished the blade and put about 5 coats of thinned transparent tinted Breakthrough on it.  I'm happy with the results. 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/19/2004 9:47 pm ET by Clay

   
1. 
   alanplanesaw | Sep 19, 2004 10:18pm | #6

   Clay,

   Tell me more about Breakthrough.  Have not heard of it.

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   Clay | Sep 19, 2004 10:48pm | #8

   It is (Breakthrough) a water based cross linking acrylic.  Very tough, I consider it an equal to conversion varnishes or polyurethanes for wear.  It has outstanding adherence ... I've painted gloss tiles with it.  It retains exceptional flexibility (despite its tough long-wearing surface) ... better than conversion varnish or even polyurethanes here.  It's made by Vanex in IL.  You can find quite a bit on it through Google.  It comes in clears and colors and they do make tint bases.  I often do my own tinting with universal tinting pigment solutions.  I have used it as cabinet finishes, for faux glazing, as a protective varnish, to make touch-up repairs, as a woodwork finish.  It is a product with outstanding versatility and durability.  Oh yes they do make a metal primer and I am painting my truck rack with it.  I use it now for about 80% of my finishing jobs.  It would be hard to replace.  Brushes well but requires some skill and experience (also thinning).  It also sprays beautifully (after thinning) but will raise grain on some bare wood projects as a primer.  Stir it well and often ... when thinned it will separate easily.  Strain it religiously, especially when spraying it.  I haven't found it easy to get very high gloss finishes from ... when thinned to spray well it tends to run easily and when thinned less it tends to eggshell ... so I usually use the satin sheen.  It's great for surfaces that need washability ... the MFR's rate it as "for repeated heavy scrubbing."  Personally I am a little more conservative but it does wash up easily ... things don't stick to it.

   Edited 9/19/2004 3:51 pm ET by Clay

4. 
   jazzdogg | Sep 19, 2004 10:33pm | #7

   Alan,

   I usually rasp, file, scrape, and/or sand even new saw handles to get rid of the hard lines and make them fit my hand more comfortably. Then, I sand in several coats of Liberon finishing oil, working my way from 220- through 400-grit silicon carbide abrasive. I'll usually apply two coats per day, allowing 8-10 hours between coats.

   Liberon finishing oil leaves a beautiful and comfortable finish, isn't at all difficult to apply, and is very easy to touch up. However, there are countless other products that would work almost as well.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

5. 
   lwj2 | Sep 28, 2004 02:13am | #11

   Alan:

   Last old Disston I bought was in similar condition.

   I stripped what was left of the finish, went over it with 220 & 320 grit sandpaper, then coated it multiple (six maybe) coats of a oil mix I use:

   To make one pint (16 oz U.S. liquid measure)

   1 ounce raw (not boiled) Linseed oil

   3 ounces raw Tung oil

   ½ ounce Japan drier

   Turpentine to make one pint

   Some of the borgs carry raw linseed. I usually order it and the tung oil from our local Pittsburgh Paint supplier, nice guys, Metro Paint, here in Roanoke.

   Good luck,

   Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Sep 29, 2004 06:53am | #12

   Leon,

   thanks for the info.  Question?  Why?  Please explain why you use those particular ingredients.

   I am not disagreeing.  Just want to understand.

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   lwj2 | Sep 30, 2004 04:06am | #13

   Alan:

   I was looking for a finish that came close to replicating what a cabinetmaker in the mid 1700's would have used.

   After a lot of looking, I found a reference from (I think) Sheraton to the effect that his finish was obtained from the local chemist (read pharmacy) "which is of good quality and cheap."

   After I finished tearing out my hair and screaming, I looked at what was available. True BLO is dangerous as hell to make unless you know what you're doing, and I don't. The boiling point is close to the flash point. Get it wrong and BOOM!!

   I use turps because it adds a bit to the solids and IMO smells better than naptha or mineral spirits. The Japan drier gets the raw linseed to dry, and speeds drying with the tung oil. Tung will polymerize by itself over time.

   I use the same formulation to make stains by adding artist's oil paint pigments to the oil mixture and have found it to be very satisfactory. I generally buy them from the local draughting/art supply house here, depending on the colour they're about $4.00 - $7.00 per 37ml tube. One tube makes a pint, but can be used to make a half pint for more concentrated colour. I like making my own stains because of the control I have and the variation in colours that can be done.

   Tried and True finishes http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/ has a true BLO finish that I'm planning on using in the future.

   Kremer Pigments http://www.kremer-pigmente.de/englisch/homee.htm offers pigments, varnish making solids such as amber and other things for those that want to make their own finishes.

   Regards,

   Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Sep 30, 2004 07:34am | #14

   Fantastic!  Thanks for the info.  I am putting that in a binder I use as my very handy reference to try on a project coming up.

   Thanks for taking time to provide that info.

   Alan -- planesaw

1. 
   lwj2 | Oct 01, 2004 12:48am | #15

   My pleasure, Alan. BTW, I get the Japan drier from Metro Paints also, I'd imagine any pro paint store carries it.

   Leon Jester

   Roanoke VA