I’m looking at ceiling-mounted retractable extension cords. Can anybody recommend one?
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More info....like what do you want to pay and what are your requirements?? Big bucks for the good ones. Home or Pro shop????
This is a starting point...
http://mcfeelys.com/product/WWD-0001/Wonder-Winder-Cord-Winder
http://www.woodhead.com/products/electrical/cordcablereels/cordreels/danielwoodhead/
I'd love one that automatically retracts, but don't know if the mechanism will last long enough to be worth it. Closer to $50 is what I had in mind originally, but it looks like most of them are more than that.
All the outlets in my basement workshop are ceiling mounted and I getting tired of fighting extension cords and/or climbing a ladder. Mostly it would be stuff like the router, jigsaw, random orbital sander.
The wonder winder does work well for the money. Retractable ones are more in the $200 range when I was researching for our shop.
I have some ceiling mounted outlets in places where I'm too far from a wall, this one's over my 4 x 8 worktable which is on wheels. I just dropped them down to where I can reach to plug in my tools. This one has four receptacles just piggy-backed of a 20amp circuit. You don't need separate circuits because you only use one tool at a time.John
I also have an unfinished basement that had only 1 outlet. I put in ~8 receptables overhead (attached to ceiling joists) and just plug everything into these. My only exception is my TS.
Hahaha...I counted at least 5 electrical safety code violations in that picture!
Edited 12/12/2006 3:55 pm ET by Mumda
Do I see three conductors with a blue or gray wire nut ?? ;-)
Red tag, Red tag'sWork Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Yes, along with an open junction box, plastic boxes (should be steel for this application) dangling wires that should be stapled close to each box (technically, they should be in EMT conduit) and how many things plugged into that one receptacle??Now, I'd bet $10 that those aren't 20A receptacles, yet the wiring appears to be 12g...but I could be wrong there.
And I'll bet the circuit runs through the outlets and are not pigtailed. All or my recepticals are pigtailed and hard wired under the screw. NO poking the wire in the convenient little clip hole, but I can't see that in the picture though. My county Building Dept. Is strict and the inspector I had is a tough old goat. They have pages of ammendments to the NEC, all of which are reasonable and practical. No metal staples, have to be insulated staples. #12 for all lighting circuits, 3way switches for pass through room lighting. Plastic boxes were OK but I used the fiber glass boxes.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Here, plastic boxes are only ok if they're in drywall. Steel boxes are necessary when they're exposed, along with EMT (steel) conduit for any exposed wiring.
"Pigtailed" Is pigtailed when you take that extra wire and ground it to the box? If not what is it? Thanks
Pigtailed, OK. Lets say you have a circuit wire 12/2 with ground entering a switch or receptical box and there are other boxes beyond the one your at, thats when you need to pigtail. It is done by splicing all like color wires together along with an extra 6-8"pigtail,(or as many as needed) which will be attached to the switch or duplex receptical. I hope thats clear enough.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
"Pigtailed" Yes clear enough. I have seen that done and done it myself. Not up on a lot of terms though. Thanks
Thanks for the info every body!
Only 5? :) All kidding aside while i dont have an issue with this idea, please do us and yourself a favor and put a cover plat on the junction box, if you accidentally touch something into that box it could be bad.
The rest of it i dont think is a big issue but the junction box could really use a cover plat (and it will keep out the saw dust also)
Other then that i think this is a good idea, but does it not get in your way when turning boards around?
I have a new garage (and house) that I am slowly setting up a shop in and the garage has a really high ceiling so i was thinking of putting a loft over one end of the garage (I can put it at 8' and still have almost 6' of head room in the loft) and now you have me thinking that maybe i should put outlets in the bottom of the loft.
Doug Meyer
The junction box is 8' from the floor and all the connections are made with wire nuts and there are no exposed wires, but thanks for the thought.John
Like i said i think it is a good idea, but having been hit with 110 (or 115 depending on where you are, and what you want to call it) i personally will go out of my way to avoid it and being over 6ft tall i can hit 8 feet with my hands.
Well then good luck with it.
Ah, a Daniel Woodhead fan! In all my years as an electrician I've always liked Woodhead products. A few more bucks then other industrial grade stuff but very well made with little design details that made them worth it. KDM"... Buy the best and only cry once.........
From Lee Valley:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41700&cat=1,43456,43460
Umberto Eco, The Island of the Day Before
cme - not sure if my reply is too late, but I use one that I bought from Home Depot about 5 yrs ago, has functioned quite well and I use it regurly. I think it cost about $30-40.
You can quite a different variety at Northern Tools.com . They are Made in China and have a plastic case, but they seem to hold up OK so far 2yrs.
I got a Grizzly H5695. I liked it so much, I hung a second one.
View Image
Similar, if not identical, onces are available from Northern Tool, etc. I'd recommend going with the 12 guage wire. I believe they are in the $55 range.
Edited 12/11/2006 8:44 pm by BarryO
I also got a Grizzly H5695. I am very happy with it. The only issue I have had is that at full extension it is occasionally takes a moment to get it locked. It is hooked to Christmas lights at the moment.
Alan
Started Learning, Still Learning, and still don't know enough!
I bought a cheap one at first and as usual it was a disapointment. Gave it away and bought a good one for about $300. I use it for a drop light. It will last for ever but was an extravagant purchase, something I've never done before or since :). Duke
http://www.coxreels.com/quality_reels/pc_series.html
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemKey=4YJ07
"... Buy the best and only cry once.........
i have tried several and have found the cheaper ones to be junk...usually they are lighter ga. cord and the springs loose tension and/or break after a short time.
the last ones i bought were $99 for a 50' 12/3 from amazon and they have lasted a couple of years now with no problems i would highly reccomend them to anyone...
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-04820-Heavy-Duty-Industrial/dp/B00008VE2S/sr=11-1/qid=1166127137/ref=sr_11_1/102-9390612-0060967
My brother powered his trailer with a cord from our barn. It was a 100' cord on a reel with about 70 feet out. One night, the trailer went dark as the cord overheated in the reel and shorted out.
I put the flaming plastic from the cord and the reel out with a hose just as the flames started up the barn wall. When the water hit the burning plastic, it exploded for a minute, then went out. A real relief given that all the farm's equipment is in the barn.
The fireman that responded to my brother's paniced call told us that the wound up cord insulated itself. The small amount of heat generated by the current built up over time in the middle of the wound up cord. This happened while my brother used a space heater. The insulation melted from the heat build up. The fireman also said that he's seen a number of fires caused by cords on reels.
Be careful. This was a 100' number 10 cord - expensive and high current. If you'll have current in a reeled cord for any significant amount of time, check it for heat build up.
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