I hope someone can help me with this one
I have a dinning room set whose chairs need to be reupolstered. They are a framed with a piece of 1/2″ plywood with webbing across. On top of this is foam with a white material and the covering material. There is also a dust cover on the bottom which I am going to replace.
Some of the chairs you feel the plywwod on the bottom, so should I
1.) tighten up the webbing or replace it
2.) Replace the old foam with new foam as well
3.) What type of material is the thin white material.
Thanks
John
Replies
Can you post a photo of a bare plywood piece?
I would re-foam them since you'll have them apart. Is the center of the plywood cut away and the webbing stretched across the opening? That's kind of an odd setup. Regardless, the webbing should always be consistently tight across both directions on all of the chairs. The foam may come with the white cloth or you can buy it separately. It's usually muslin and is there so the cloth doesn't grab onto the foam and bunch when someone slides the cloth when they squirm or get up. The cambrick should be replaced, which you said you'll do.
Highfigh
Here are three pictures of the plywood bottom. the first is from the top with burlap on top. the second is a bottom view of the plywood with the webbing exposed and the third is the top with the foam and muslin.
thanks for your imput
OK, that's pretty much the way I envisioned the bottom. If the foam on some has collapsed, you can temporarily expand it with steam but I don't know how long that will last. Tighten the webbing, re-use the burlap if it's not torn or rotted, re-use the batting if it's in good shape and they should come out fine. The bottom corners can be tricky to fasten without becoming really bulky, so staple or tack the corner first. You may need to snip and fold the excess.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Typically with foam you want a batting between the foam and the cover. Foam doesn't breath very well, and the batting allows perspiration, and heat to travel away from you body.
Detailed pictures of the chairs would be a big help. If you don't have a digital camera have a friend take pictures for you, then post them on this site. Once we have this information we may be able to give you a solution to the problem you have now.
It seems that just about every cell phone out there has a camera- that'll be fine for this.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I just posted some pictures to highfigh. Would you mind looking at them and making some suggestions
Thanks
john
Personally I would just make the plywood out of one piece and then add the foam and muslin. This will give a firm support for the seat and you eliminate the dust cover on the bottom. These type chairs, even with a taught webbing will eventually have to be redone down the road. Skip the webbing and the job is done and over with. Do you have pics of the chair frame and how it is attached to the seat? I redid a chair with marine vinyl and it turned out great. The marine vinyl has a reinforced web backing and makes it less apt to pucker than regular vinyl.
Jigs made a good point about the batting- it doesn't need to be really thick, either. Polyester batting and the muslin cloth can be bought at any fabric store. If you replace the webbing, I would recommend using tacks instead of staples and if you can't borrow a webbing stretcher, you can use a dowel. Fasten one end of the webbing and cut the piece longer than needed, stapling the free end to the dowel so you can roll it and use the frame for leverage. Once it's good and tight, tack it in place.
Johnny,
My wife has taken a few upholstery classes and done a lot of related work, so I will pass on what I have learned from her.
That white 'fabric' looks like Dacron, not muslin. Muslin is a light weight canvas, Dacron is like the fiberfill stuff that is sort of spun or layered into a sheet. You need something between the foam and the upholstery fabric to allow the fabric to "slip".
That yellow foam isn't so great for support. If you can spend a few bucks go to a fabric store, even better if you can find one that specializes in upholstery and get some new foam. I don't know the trade name for it, but there is a denser foam that is typically white that will give a much better feel to the seat. A one inch thickness should be comfortable to sit on with that webbing set up.
If you are referring to the burlap as the dust cover on the bottom, tighten it up or replace it, but don't leave it out. It keeps the foam from escaping out the bottom between the webbing.
Consider doing a layer of muslin over the Dacron before you do the final material. Stapled separately, it allows you to replace the covering fabric should one get damaged, without the seat assembly falling apart on you.
Good luck with it.
AndyE pretty much has it right.You can steam foam to fluff it up, but that's short lived. If you are going through all this work, it's worth the $5-10 per seat for new foam. Foam does wear out. Here is a site with information on foam (see "Types of Foam") http://www.sunshinefoam.com/ You can also order from them in either sheets or custom cut. You can easily cut foam on a band saw or with an electric carving knife. I normally cut it 1/2" wider than the base all around and let the covering compress it down.The "white stuff" is polyester fill, often known by its trade name, Dacron. You can buy this in sheet form, too.When you apply top covering(s), staple front and rear centers first, aligning the pattern, if one. Then staple side centers. Inspect and adjust. When you are satisfied, work your way into the corners. You may need to stretch and/or trim corners to get them to lie flat.
Thanks for the info I will be getting a catalogue from sunshine ASAP
The batting is Dacron or polyester fiberfill, both of which are used instead of cotton because they tend to bunch less. The muslin goes over whatever batting is used, whether cotton or Dacron. The muslin usually holds it's shape better than the cheaper synthetic materials. Re: the foam- don't get the firmest kind but see if they have samples that you can test sit on. With the hole and webbing, you want it firm but not too firm- that just doesn't feel normal and it can prematurely weaken the webbing.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks for the info. I got in touch with sunshine & they are sending me a catalogue
Johnny
It can be a fun project. I would suggest doing one and sitting on it for a bit to make sure it feels right. And pull the fabric good and tight as it will stretch a bit when it's new. Dining chairs like that are pretty straight forward, for a challenge try a wingback or a couch.Good luck.Andy
John, check out this website, call them, they give good one on one service. Will answer all your upholstery questions.
http://home.mindspring.com/~mkmsales/
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled