Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jan 28, 2010 08:32am | #1

   Ewic,

   Dwat those wascally bandsaws anyway. Thought Elmer Fudd had posted here when I read your thread title;-)

   It sounds like a dull blade to me.

   Ray

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 28, 2010 10:02am | #2

   I spent many hours wrestling with a similar problem with my 1/2" blade. Then I remembered that I had forgotten to install my 1" veneer blade.

   Problem solved - but I don't think the main problem was 1/2" vs 1". I am sure the smaller blade was "bad". I'm switching to a new supplier.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Jan 28, 2010 10:53am | #3

   I don't think the problem is
   I don't think the problem is the width of the 1/2" blade. I re-sawed with one for years on a 14" BS before purchasing a 18" saw which BTW.. I run a 3/4" bi-metal on even though it will take up to 1 1/2". I don't see the need for anything wider.

   You do have a Woodslicer which does have the correct amount of teeth for re-saw so... I believe as others have mentioned that you either have a dull blade or one that the teeth got knocked out of set. I used the WS for years and I can tell you it won't stay sharp all that long.

   So.. I would get another blade and also suggest you slow down the feed rate a bit also. Once a blade is dull.. it's dull regardless of how old it it. You might also check to see if the weld on the blade is smooth. Welders have bad days also.

   Good luck...

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 28, 2010 11:33am | #4

   Sarge,

   I agree with you that it is not 1/2" vs 1", I think he has a bad blade.

   For years I had great luck resawing with Suffolk Machinery 1/2" blades. When I got the 16" Laguna saw I also bought (was talked into - with return privileges) their 1" Resaw King w/ carbide teeth. I did not return it because it does a great job and it ought to last longer than I will.

   The problems I had with the 1/2" Suffolk blade (it kept knocking the side guides out by at least 1/8") before I remembered to switch blades was definitely a bad blade. This is the second one I've had from them

   I'll find a new supplier - after I use up the 3 I have left in stock. Are YOU interested? I'll sell them cheap! :-)

3. 
   Don01 | Jan 28, 2010 11:52am | #5

   Eric,
   Don't be to concerned
   Eric,

   Don't be to concerned about the position of the blade on the wheels. The tracking adjustment is there to compensate for differences and wear, on the blade, tires etc. If the amount of adjustment is excessive, then you blade may be bad.

   I run a 1/2" blade at around the 3/8 mark on the tension guide. The actual tension required would be that recommended by the blade manufacturer. If you have the spring nearly fully compressed, that is way to much tension in my opinion.

   Go to Highlands site and review their resawing guide. It discusses adjusting the fence to eliminate bowing

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

   Don

   Edit after reading Sarge's comments.

   Definitely a dull bandsaw blade is a curse and you can not cut at the same rate as any other saw. Even slicing a 2X4 in half takes longer than on a table saw.

   You didn't say what you are cutting, but trying achieve decent feed rates is not usually possible when re-sawing.

   Don

1. 
   econ_guy | Jan 28, 2010 02:36pm | #6

   Thanks for the great comments.

   Some replies and additional info:

   I am making test cuts on cherry boards ranging from 4-8 inches wide. Feed rate is about 2 feet per minute, basically as slow as I can do it smoothly.

   I tried many different tension settings (plucking, flutter test, etc.), and all produce the same results.

   I used a fence, adjusted for drift, and the cut still bows. I cut freehand (about 5 to 10 degrees out of parallel with the miter slot - a lot, right?), and the cut still bows. Cutting freehand should eliminate any issues with drift / blade lead, etc, right? I am cutting straight down the line I mark on the board, but the cut bows.

   Finally, the cut always bows to the same side.

   Thanks again, -E

1. 
   Don01 | Jan 28, 2010 03:33pm | #7

   Eric,

   Get a new blade. The one you have is to long. It has either stretched or was made wrong. It does happen.

   I don't recall ever having any bowing issues, usually just getting the blade to track properly.

   I have had my share of issues with defective blades. If you have done everything else it is likely the blade.

   I don't know where you are located, but if you are doing a lot of this resawing, get yourself a Lennox or equal bi metal 4-6 TPI blade. The feed is slower but will out last the standard blades. The dust is much finer so wear your respirator.

   Don

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Jan 28, 2010 05:21pm | #8

   I'll pass Frosty as I kept my
   I'll pass Frosty as I kept my small BS and put a dedicated 1/4" on it just for curve cuts. After trying several blades (including a 3/4" Woodsliver) I ended up settling on a Lennox 3/4 3 tpi bi-metal. That puppy will last 5-6 times the length of a normal steel blade at around $58 shipped. I keep one dedicated on the 18" BS and two hanging on the rack as I don't have time to wait on one if one goes dull.

   But.. with that said the current one I have has handled around 2000 linear feet of re-saw and still good to go!

   Regards..

   PS.. put them in classified here or Sawmill Creek and you won't have trouble selling them likely...

4. 
   Rich14 | Jan 29, 2010 06:45am | #9

   Not only must the blade be sharp, but all the teeth must be set perfectly the same. A new blade is the best bet for re-sawing. Any good brand of blade will do a very good job.

   It is surprisingly easy to damage a blade (knock the set of a few teeth out of perfect alignment) enough to kill its re-saw capabilities, for instance, just by having it hit the sides of the table opening while installing or hit the throat plate while running it up to tension.

   I've had new blades fail to work adequately right out of the package. I usually buy in packs of 5 or 10. Changing to another one in the pack solved the problem immediately. The one that didn't work well for re-sawing was "new-blade-sharp" and performed just fine for other needs. There was just enough variation in the way the teeth were formed to make a big difference.

   A dull blade is impossible to use.

   I use a 1/2" 3 tpi skip-tooth blade for re-sawing the hardest tropical woods. No problem.

   The lower the tpi the better in re-sawing. And, lower = smoother cut. Higher tpi, (even 4 tpi) the blade can't get rid of the saw dust in the gullets, the blade overheats and flexes in the cut, making it wander and surge.

   Rich

5. 
   DougGF | Jan 30, 2010 10:34am | #10

   Eric,

   My first attempt at resawning resulted in the same frustrations you are encountering using a 3/4" 3-TPI blade until I bought a new blade, Timberwolf, flutter tensioned it and away I went. I did replace the stock tensioning blade with a better aftermarket spring. The drift and bowing both disappeared. I have a Grizzly 14" with riser and just finished resawning 9" walnut with no problems. As others have stated, sharpness and set is essential.

   Doug

6. 
   econ_guy | Jan 30, 2010 06:44pm | #11

   Highland sent a replacement blade, and it works like it should. Problem solved. Thanks for all the good comments.

   -E

7. 
   pictakinman | Mar 19, 2010 12:16am | #12

   A bowed cut is indicative of inadequate tension.   Other thoughts: How old is the saw spring, Do you release the tension after use, How sharp or clean is the blade.  How fast are you feeding?

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 19, 2010 11:13am | #13

   Have to disagree Pictakinman... A bowed cut is indicative of a dull blade or tooth (or teeth) knocked out of set. In-adequate tension will usually produce wander but not a bow internally in the stock which the original poster had. You obviously didn't catch his last post which stated Highland sent a new blade to replace the dull one he had and the problem was solved.

   Regards...