Ridges from using my new Lie Neilsen No. 5 Bench Plane
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I just purchased a Lie Neilsen No 5 bench plane. Before using I sharpened the blade with a 5 degree secondary bevel. When I test used the plane on the surface of a wide board, I noticed very minor ridges on the surface of my wood at the edges of where the plane moved across the wood. Is honing a slight “curve” on the ends of the blade the best way to get rid of the ridges?
Replies
Yes, it's called "cambering" the iron. Type " cambering a plane iron" into the search box at the top of the page and settle in for a long reading session.
When I was starting out a couple-three years ago I invested a lot of time learning about sharpening, including a video that Lie Nielsen has on their website. It’s brutally slow-paced and long, but ultimately helpful:
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/plane-sharpening-stream?path=home-education-videos&node=4245
Another commonly cited reference (also helpful to me) is Ron Hock’s “The Perfect Edge”.
About the ridges, my ability to camber must be flawed, because I still often get them :|
Someone please delete the link in the OP's post. It's spam.
John,
To which "OP's" (Other Person's) post are you referring? kpfirrm's, or weymouth2's?
[Never mind, I figured it out. It's the first one. "Well Duh!" (And, no, I didn't open it first. We do come here to learn, don't we?)]
Not spam... just a really weird happening.
Removed the link.
OP is "original Post"
Thank you. I've been wonder what that meant!
Good to know. I thought it meant "Operator."
It's a jack plane, not a smoothing plane. It's not supposed to leave a finished surface when set up as a jack plane. After the jack, you'll often use a jointer then a smoother which will bring the surface to much more refinement.
What MJ said is the best starting point. I had the same issue 6 years ago when I bought my first Lie Nielsen hand plane. I called Lie Nielsen to ask what to do and they outlined a recommended sharpening process to put camber. I follow what they say for my smoother and jack plane. I keep my no 8 dead flat.
Something you might also want to check on your Lie Nielsen. It ships (or used to) with a very wide mouth setting on the hand plane. It took me a year or two to realize that I should move the frog up. You might want to take a look at that as well if it is a new plane. It wasn't something I was aware to adjust at first.
I have found Lie Nielsen to be really helpful many times over the phone was I brand new at woodworking and learning about the tools. Paul Sellers (the one I follow most closely) has a really good book on hand tools and how they work and which ones are essential. Well worth owning to get familar with the tools if you prefer books.
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