Replies

1. 
   user-212595 | Nov 22, 2004 07:22pm | #1

   check out the Yorkcraft from Wilke Machinery in PA, basically a Delta rebadged.  I haven't made the plunge yet, but this is the one I plan on buying (6 or 8").

    

   http://www.wilkemachinery.com/Yorkcraft.tpl

2. 
   Rich14 | Nov 22, 2004 07:24pm | #2

   NC,

   I have the Grizzly 6" and I've been very happy with it. It is a LOT of jointer for about $300. It does not have quick change knives, and I don't think Grizzly offers the quick change insert for that model. If they do, get it.

   Even without it, knife setting is sure and positive as the knives have hex wrench set screws under them if you want to set that way. But using a Magnaset is a much better way to go. I can change out a 3 knife set in 10 minutes, as well aligned as by any other method.

   The machine is solid and dependable. No slop in the adjustable infeed and outfeed tables. However, I can't rely on the fence staying square to the table after I've moved it horizontally or changed its angle and tried to rely on coming back to the 90 degree stop, and I always check it with a machinist's square. But I do that anyway on any machine.

   I got the model with handwheels, not levers. Much better in my opinion.

   All that said, get an 8" over a 6" if there is any possibility of that in your budget. In jointers, mass and size make a BIG difference. The 6" is willing, but the 8" is a real machine.

   Rich

3. 
   forestgirl | Nov 22, 2004 08:48pm | #3

   I would get the Grizzly for a couple of reasons -- the enclosed base, and Grizzly's customer service.

   Can't see having a jointer with an open base unless economics forced it.  Hopefully, you've seen that there's a quality difference between the Grizzly 1182 and the 1182Z models.  I've seen them both at the Grizzly showroom, and the 1182 base isn't great quality.  It's basically a money-saver. 

   To get the handwheels, you'll have to go up to $425.  I think you can see, by the fact that the lever model is marked down from $395 to $325, that the levers aren't very popular.

   If the $325 or so is pushing your budget hard, nothing wrong with the Rigid.  Seems to have pretty good reports.  It's a matter of comparison with other options.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   DSW | Nov 22, 2004 11:41pm | #4

   Regarding your choices, I'd probably lean towards the Griz because of the enclosed base. I own a Griz 1023 ts and a G0555 bs and am very happy with both - good company, good products IMO.I'll echo the recommendation made for the Yorkcraft 6" unit though. I just bought one of these and am pretty impressed with the fit and finish and performance thus far. An added benefit, and nice little cost savings, is that this unit has an integral mobility system which works well. The Wilke folks were great to deal with.-Doug

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 23, 2004 07:35am | #5

   I have the Grizzly with the levers and it's not so bad, I have used both types and don't really have a preference. If you get used to one kind or the other, it'll work. The thing I have learned over the years when working with powertools that are adjustable is: the indicators are not particularly accurate, so don't rely on them unless you have spent enough time working with it to know the idiosyncracies. You'll need to measure if you want to be precise. I didn't find setting the knives to be very hard, either. On the 12" planer or the 6" jointer. As long as I'm not going to try to joint timbers, I won't worry about the lightweight base. I use it for the edges of boards and if I have tearout or chipping(from the grain lifting out), I use the tablesaw since my Forrest blade cuts smoother than any jointer I have seen.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

4. 
   Kent_F | Nov 23, 2004 08:00am | #6

   I've had the Ridgid jointer for a couple of years and it's been great, but I'm also confident I'd be just as satisfied with Grizzly. Pick a color!

5. 
   mudman | Nov 23, 2004 08:37am | #7

   I think that these machines are all of the same quality, most likely some are from the same factories. I go with the ridgid because if you have a problem Home Depot is near and willing to take it back.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
6. 
   Cheatah | Nov 23, 2004 03:14pm | #8

   I also have the Grizz 6" jointer with handwheels. It works well for me. I have had the machine perform very well for the lat three years. Althouhg--Setting the knives can be a pain.

   I would suggest that you seriously consider a 8" machine though. I am a avid weekend woodworker and I am bummed that I did not get the 8" machine. Yes--it is more expensive. But it is more prudent to buy one machine once instead of two machines twice. ------ I am getting ready to get ready to buy an 8" jointer. The 6" just causes me to work more to get the same results from wide boards.

   I know you are saying," Aww I just need the 6" model. But trust me you will absolutely want an 8" jointer in less than 12 months from buying the 6" version.

   Good luck and be confident that Grizz will provide the quality and accuracy you want.

   Mark

1. 
   BBob | Nov 24, 2004 03:52am | #9

   I've been considering these 2 jointers for the past month. Initially, I tried to order the Yorkcraft but when they told me the shipping was $200 my jaw stopped working. I like the fact that I can pick up the Ridgid just a few minutes from my house. On the other hand, Grizzly will deliver to my door. Still on the fence tho, so to speak...

1. 
   NCLaquer | Nov 24, 2004 06:17am | #10

   Burt, I also checked out the Yorkcraft after it was suggested above and had the same reaction regarding shipping.  Not gonna happen!

   Let me know what you decide

2. 
   MatthewSchenker | Nov 24, 2004 06:42pm | #12

   Burt,
   I have the same reaction to shipping costs, especially when Amazon ships for free. Although I still can't figure out how Amazon can ship a Unisaw and a Powermatic 8" jointer for free.When I do my research for a new tool, I create a spreadsheet with all the details, so I can compare tools. Then I have a column for the price, with shipping included. Too often, companies show you the price a tool, then show shipping as a secondary thing. It should be included as the cost of that tool.

   Edited 11/24/2004 10:45 am ET by Matthew Schenker

7. 
   MikeN | Nov 24, 2004 04:39pm | #11

   I have had the Ridgid for about two years.  It has served me well.  Fit and finish was excellent.  Instructions are outstanding for assembly.  Bought it ten miles from home at HD.  Ridgid parts are readily available, though this jointer has had no need for any service attention.  I am sure Grizzly is also very nice, but I don't like to buy major power tools mail order.  As said by others, these units are likely off the sam production line in Taiwan / China.  Good luck.

   Mike

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 24, 2004 08:39pm | #13

   Mike, my concern about parts availability for Rigid tools is "Will they be available in 5 or 10 years?"  I know from experience that I can get parts for my Jet table saw (prehistoric, practically) and at least some old Delta stuff.  I'm thinking that Grizzly is pretty likely to fall in the same category parts-wise as Jet and Delta. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   mudman | Nov 24, 2004 09:35pm | #14

   FG,

   That is a very valid point. Of course most of the jointers in this class are the same machines. I know that my closed stand jet appears to be the same as the Ridgid. Only the cool rubberized knobs are different. And on a $350 machine it wouldn't be worth replacing any of the major componets anyway. Belts, knifes, mototors, knobs and levers are pretty universal. The other parts are large and expensive, ie. beds, arms, fence,the big adjustment screws etc. On a large machine ($$$) I'd be more concerned. I'm not saying $350 is chump change. But if you can save a hundred bucks that is probably more importaint. The most importaint thing is that the machine does its job.... flattens wood.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 24, 2004 09:38pm | #15

   Unless the jointer falls over and breaks, it will never need parts, other than blades and, maybe once in the distant future, bearings, and both blades and bearings will be available from multiple sources forever.

   This is true of most cast iron woodworking machines, other than blades, bearings, belts, and pulleys there is almost nothing on them that will ever need replacing and obsessing over parts availability is worrying needlessly, especially on the small simple machines being discussed here.

   John W.

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 25, 2004 01:04am | #17

   I was trying to get some parts for a Ryobi router(Home Depot stocks almost no accessories for these, even though the parts I want are supplied in a multi-tool kit) and was told that Home Depot now owns Rigid and Ryobi. This was from the customer service line, not the counter. Rigid has been around for a while and with HD selling their tools, I doubt that the company will go under unless they pull an Enron.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   CharlieP | Nov 25, 2004 09:51pm | #30

   Ridgid is manufactured by Emerson Tool which is not owned by Home Depot, despite the opinion of some Home Depot employees.  However, Home Depot is the exclusive sales point for Ridgid woodworking tools (but not for other Ridgid products).  Incidentally, back in the years past when Craftsman tools were good, many of them were made by Emerson, so when sears went cheap, Emerson switched names on the tools to Ridgid, and found a new exclusive outlet. 

   If you are only going to use the jointer for the edges of boards, then you don't need a jointer - you can do it with a table saw and a good blade.  But if you are going to do the face of boards, as you should, then you need a jointer as wide as the board. 

   I have the Ridgid 6 inch jointer - it does a great job, but isn't wide enough for many boards.  I was thinking of going to an 8 inch Grizzly jointer, but just took the plunge and ordered a 16 inch unit.  I would not recommend any jointer less than 8 inches.  ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

2. 
   highfigh | Nov 25, 2004 10:22pm | #31

   Sounds like 'owns' was figurative, then.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

8. 
   billballeza | Nov 25, 2004 01:02am | #16

   I have a Delta 6" and am happy with it as far as it goes.

   But I can tell you this with no reservation whatsoever; if I had it to do over again I would buy an 8" jointer.

   Many people on this board advised me to do just that but I didn't think the extra money was warranted when you could simply buy 6" stock.

   Now, everytime I go to the lumber yard, I have to reject better boards (grain, flatness, straightness) simply because they are slightly wider than 6".

   Believe me, most of what you are going to want to buy in the way of rough lumber is going to be wider than your jointer will handle.

   I know this will likely fall on ears as deaf as mine were.. but I had to try.

   Best to you whatever you decide.

1. 
   JeffreyS | Nov 25, 2004 01:09am | #18

   I am also about to take the plunge and buy a jointer. I have been looking a several - mostly 8" and found that after shipping the costs get very close. For example the Bridgewood 8" is 950 + 300 shipping. You can get a DJ20 from Amazon for 1350. (1650 if you want the X5 package, though I am not sure it is worth the extra $).

   anyone actually own a Yorkcraft 8"?

   Jeff

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 25, 2004 01:52am | #20

   Stop!

   Go to the Grizzly.com website and punch in G1018 or G1018HW (model with handwheels).

   It's an 8" x 65" jointer for $695.. shipping only $75 anywhere in the lower 48.

   Thank me later.

   Bill

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 25, 2004 05:19am | #21

   How long are the boards you're planing on the jointer, and how likely is it that the surface is as smooth as a thickness planer would make them? I can see using a jointer if they're not too long, though.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 25, 2004 05:56am | #22

   I joint (surface plane) boards up to five feet. Sometimes they are reasonably straight and flat before jointing.. the only problem is that taking them directly to the thickness planer offers no guarantee that the faces will be parallel to one another.

   But more often than not the boards have moderate cupping or bowing that can only be flatened on the jointer.

   I know that some people surface rough stock only with a planer but after much reading on the subject I don't believe that is a satisfactory way to mill stock.

   I always begin with 5/4 stock and hope to mill it to 4/4 before assembly, sanding and finishing.

2. 
   walnutjerry | Nov 25, 2004 06:12am | #24

   Bill, you are absolutely correct in the statement about not being able to true up a board with the surface planer. If the board has twist or bow in it when you feed it into the planer it will be the same way when it comes out . You MUST flatten on face first before you can parallel the oposite face or joint an adjoining edge square to the face.

3. 
   billballeza | Nov 25, 2004 06:20am | #26

   I read Garrett Hack's excellent articles in FWW on the subjects of milling rough stock and, in a later issue, the purpose and use of jointers and planers.

   He makes your points exactly and says the matter is more easily understood when you consider the names for these machines in Sgian Dubh Land, (England), where

   the jointer is called a planer, and;

   the planer is called a thicknesser.

   When thought of in these terms there is no mistaking the symbiosis of planer and jointer, nor the frequent misconception that having one obviates the need for the other.

    

    

4. 
   forestgirl | Nov 25, 2004 06:14am | #25

   "taking them directly to the thickness planer offers no guarantee that the faces will be parallel to one another."  Actually, the problem is they will be parallel to each other, so that if the board isn't flat on either side, all you get is a board that's the same "un-flat" profile on each side.  The planer makes the cut side parallel to the table side as the board is run through.  Using the jointer first to face-joint produces the flat reference face to run on the table of the planer.

   Just don't want to confuse the newbies out there.  I remember how hard it was to get my brain around the whole jointer vs. planer thing awhile back!

   I agree with you about using the jointer even with so-called S4S material -- as often as not, it's not as flat as it needs to be.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   billballeza | Nov 25, 2004 06:23am | #27

   Yeah, what you said.

9. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 25, 2004 01:24am | #19

   I've had a Jet 6" jointer for years. I've regretted buying it almost since I bought it because it's too small. I cannot tell you how many times I've had to rip a beautiful board and glue it back together or all the time spent searching through piles at the lumber yard to find 6" boards. Never mind all the 7" boards that I had to cut down to fit on the jointer. Go for the 8" if you possibly can.

   That said, I live outside of Boston about 45 minutes and would love to sell you my Jet 6" jointer that is in perfect condition.

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

10. 
    walnutjerry | Nov 25, 2004 06:01am | #23

    I used a Sears 6" jointer for years (or tried to) the bed length was only 36" long. I never could get a straight edge on anything over 18" long. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Powermatic 8" wide with a 6' bed. My only regret is not doing that the first time. When I ran the face side of an 8" board the first time and it had suction to it when I picked it up off the outfeed table-------I WAS IN HEAVEN.  It was shipped directly to my shop cost free!!!    It reminds me that the cheapest price is not always the best buy.

11. 
    utternovice | Nov 25, 2004 06:44am | #28

    I have a Grizzly 6" with levers that I purchased about 4 years ago. It has been a very good machine, the only regret is that I didn't get an 8 inch machine. I only purchase rough cut and it seems that even the narrowest boards from my usual mill are just over 6". For me this means jointing one edge of the board and then rippign to just under 6 inches wide on either the ts or bandsaW, I then face joint and sqaure one edge, while the extra step doesn't seem like much the time does add up over the course of a project. I'm a hobbyist and while this usually equates to being able to spend more time on a project i find my shop time very limited and am constantly thinking about a bigger jointer. Currently, I'm trying to figure out how to justify the purchase of a 12" jointer (one can never have too much capacity - right????)

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 25, 2004 07:03am | #29

   If the faces aren't parallel, the planer needs setting up, assuming the bottom is actually flat.If a board is twisted or bowed badly enough, do you really think it's useful at that length or would you cut it shorter and use it elsewhere? I do agree though, one face needs to be flattened so it can be the reference. How many wide boards(over 8") do any of you use that aren't quatersawn, and how wide do you go before you glue up the boards with alternating grain?
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   ajm | Nov 26, 2004 07:19am | #33

   I was thinking the same thing about using boards over 6" that arent quartersawn. I almost always cut any boards over about 5" in half and flip one side then reglue anyways to help with any warping that may later occur.
   I have the grizzly 6" with the levers and all an all I have found it pretty satisfactory. but I admit to rarely getting rough sawn lumber (no source close).

12. 
    zendo | Nov 26, 2004 06:40am | #32

    Ridgid has been around for like 85 years, they are quality steel, but made tools more for the plumbing and electrical industry.  I think they hired a bunch of dewalt engineers and maybe some Boeing ones too, because the tools I have decided to buy from them have all lived up to and exceeded the competition.  Its only recently that they joined with HD, and its coincidence with the color cause ridgid has been orange before I knew what a HD was.

    but thats just an aside, Grizzly sounds cool.  Yeah maybe save up for the 8 inch, you probably have the difference in a container of spare change. You can make like 150 bucks an hour counting dimes.