I have gone through every review and every post I can find, as so far the biggest complaint about the Ridgid is the 1 1/2 hp motor. Here’s my question. How hard would it be to just replace it with a larger one. I don’t know much when it comes to electrical stuff, usually leave it to the other guy, but after looking at it, seems like it would be pretty easy to go out and just buy a new motor.
What would I be looking at for price for a good 3 hp motor? Any changes in wiring for the machine or for the outlet? I’m sure there would be warranty issues, but I’m really not concerned if I’m giving myself increased power and production.
Jimmy W.
Replies
You may well discover that 1.5 hp is plenty. It's a very nice saw for the money. A comparison point that isn't mentioned very often, but is very important for ease of use is the amount of table in front of the blade.
Compare the number of inches of deck space in front of the blade on the TS 3650 to others - as I recall, it's right in there with much more expensive saws.
Why would you care? Try to cut something using the miter gauge or a shop-made sled on a saw with only a couple of inches of top in front of the blade and you'll soon be cursing the saw. You need some deck space in front of the blade to engage the track enough to stabilize the miter gauge or sled in order to get the accuracy you need to do precision work. When you have to balance the piece or panel you are about to cut in the air in front of the saw, you soon wish for more real estate on the top.
Mike D
Edited 10/13/2007 12:08 am ET by Mike_D
Mike, AFAIK the distance from the front table to the arbor is roughly standard on full size 27" deep saws. The standard distance AFAIK is ~ 17-1/4" from table front to the center of the arbor when raised. I'm not aware that the Ridgid's is greater than that. I've measured the arbor distance on some older Emerson made Craftsman contractor saw, which were the predecessor to the Ridgids and those were also ~ 17-1/4". There's only so far back that you can safely go with a depth of 27". Anyone care to take a measurement of their Ridgid and confirm? JW0329 - The Ridgid comes with a 13 amp motor that's fairly easy on most standard 110v breakers...most are closer to 15 amp, which still run on most standard 20 amp 110v circuits. It's possible to put on a larger motor, but I wouldn't recommend going beyond 2hp or you may overtax the bearings and entire drive system with the extra power and weight. Additional hp may also require running on 220v. Good alignment, good blade choice and maintenance (clean/sharp), and straight dimensioned lumber can make a significant difference in perceived power. As an alternative, there are many new hybrids to consider that offer enclosed motors, which offer a shorter drive belt and increased power transfer with less vibration from the same size motor, thus the motor power translates more efficiently to cutting power at the blade...in theory anyway....actual differences may not be significant. The hybrids also have better dust collection and a smaller footprint because the motor doesn't take up extra room in the back.
You are right. My sensitivity to front of the arbor real estate results from the fact that I bought the TS2400 Table Saw instead of the TS 3650 Contractor's Saw, due to what I considered at the time was an essential, smaller, shop footprint side-to-side. What I should have noticed is that table saws are smaller front to back as well as side to side when compared to a contractor's saw.
The TS2400 is a great saw, but only has a 13 1/4 front of table to arbor distance. That 4 inch difference is significant (darn)!.
Since putting it in my shop, I've devoted considerable effort to "enlarging" the saw in stages to meet my "cabinet making" needs (my wife has yet to see an actual cabinet emerge from my shop, but that's a different subject). I've made and added the usual off-feed table, the not-so-usual right side of the table extension table, and now the very unusual in-front-of-the-darn-saw extension table.
Were I to do it again, I'd buy the TS 3650 and use the time I've spent "enlarging" the saw's table to making an actual table. :>)
I cut ply on my Ridgid all the time. I have a roller stand for the 'front' of the saw extension and put it away when not needed!
I would agree with Mike that 1.5hp might be plenty. I have the saw as well and I find it great for the price. I have to point out that it got a LOT better for rips when I got a thin kerf, low tooth Freud. Ripping 2" ash went from slow and burnt to quick and very clean that day. :)
Accuracy is great (table and fence) and I've been able to make/use jigs for doing just about anything so far. Only complaint after getting a few special purpose blades is cutting large stock like sheets. Don't like using engineered wood but they need to be used once in a while. I have rollers but extension tables would be better. That would kill the excellent feature of the feet/roller combo to save space though.
I would consider the motor upgrade in the future as well but for now I don't see the need.
Andy
I have a Ridgid TS 3650 that I like. No real complaints.
I cut a lot of hard dense woods (normally not over 1 3/4 inch thick) and the motor seems adequate.
I would spend the money on a quality blade. Also, I have not installed one on my saw but the saw does vibrate a bit and replacing the drive belt with the low vibration 'linked' belt would be ideal.
Also, if you go for a 3 HP motor be sure to determine the length of the motor. The end of the current motor is approximately 2 inches below the table top when tipped to 45 degrees.
The TS 3650 has a flat belt drive, a multi v belt, to be exact and it runs very smoothly, this is same type of belt used on most of the hybrid saws. If your saw has vibration problems it is very unlikely that it is caused by the belt, although belt misalignment might be the cause of the vibration.Replacing the belt with a linked belt would require new pulleys and the linked belt would almost certainly create more vibration than the flat belt drive on the saw.By the way, I tested the saw and wrote the review of it a few years ago for Fine Woodworking.John White
Yestermorrow School, Waitsfield, Vermont
Jimmy W.
I have had my 3650 for two years, and the biggest improvement was replacing the stock blade with a good quality aftermarket blade. I went with a regular kerf Freud, and it was night and day. I've ripped 8/4 white oak and the saw handled it just fine. Tom
I'm familiar with the Ridgid saw, I wrote a favorable review of it a few years ago for Fine Woodworking.
You could go up to a 2 horse motor but a 3 horse motor would be too heavy for the mounting bracket, would possibly have clearance problems, and the belt drive probably would just slip if the saw were heavily loaded, so you wouldn't get the advantage of the added power.
1 1/2 horsepower isn't a lot for a 10 inch blade, but it is usually adequate for most furniture work. With a good blade, and a properly aligned miter slot and fence (both alignments are easy to set on the 3650), you should be fine. The place where most lightly powered saws fall short is when doing heavy ripping with a combination blade, so purchasing a low tooth count rip blade for the saw, in addition to a combination blade, is a good idea.
John White
Yestermorrow School, Waitsfield, Vermont
Thanks for the input from everyone. I've always used dedicated high med-high quality blades for both ripping and cross-cut, don't think I even have a combo blade any more. I've been reading as many reviews as I can and the only real issues anyone has mentioned is the motor, so I'm glad no one here considers it underpowered. Still sitting on it though, I may have to go with one of the portables (Ridgid or Bosch) due to job site work.Jimmy W.
I've had a TS3650 for over a year now which replaced a burnt out TS2400L because of my abuse to the little direct drive. Both tools cut 8/4 rock maple with ease.
I would first consider getting away from any contractor style saw long before a motor replacement. Firstly, when using a decent blade it simply doesn't seem necessary. Secondly, crank up the motor to a full 45 degrees. You'll notice that the clearance between the end of the motor and the table surface is fairly slim. Another motor will have to be very close in size to the OEM motor.
In regards to table real estate I find the short distance between the back of the blade and the end of the table dangerously short. Adding at least an 11" outfeed table (which happens to be the amount the motor sicks out the back) is almost a necessity. Again check for motor clearance.
What the TS3650 really needs is better leg support between the front and rear sets of legs. Fortunately a couple pieces of hard board can easily do the trick. If your planning to move the saw as much as I do you might want to look into upgrading the casters instead of the motor. I aslo find the blade guard setup a little weak.
Vic
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