Replies

1. 
   sawduster | Jun 01, 2004 06:14am | #1

   It seems to be a matter of choice, with the current thinking that left tilt is better as the cutoff will not fall into the blade.  Hope that helps, but I'm sure you will get a number of opinions.  Also, if you do a search you will find at least one rather long thread on the subject.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 01, 2004 08:02am | #2

   You should try doing a search, since this topic is raised frequently.

   I think left tilt machines have become popular in the last few years mainly because if you position your fence to the right of the blade as most do, a right-tilt machine tips the blade toard the fence. Thus, when you are ripping, one part of the board is captured between the fence and the tilted blade -- which can make for a wicked kick back.

   The left-tilt dramatically reduces this kick back potential.

3. 
   Dustmight | Jun 01, 2004 12:35pm | #3

   Left or right tilt is mainly a matter of preference since both have pros and cons. As mentioned the LT tends to be safer for bevel cuts. It's possible to make bevels safer on a RT by sliding the fence to the left side of the blade. However reversing the fence in this manner is a less familiar position, so is still not as safe as the LT.

   One of the bigger problems with a LT is that if you change blade thickness, the reference tape will no longer be accurate between the fence and blade. To get around this, I either shim the blade to line up at 0", or adjust the indicator mark. A dado blade is too large a shift to accommodate for, so you must check with a ruler or measuring tape.

   A big plus (IMO) for LT is that the thread orientation for the arbor nut is normal whereas a RT is reversed.

   I'm not certain, but there may be some complications with an aftermarket sliding table with the LT. Worth checking into, and hopefully someone will clarify.

   I've owned both and prefer the LT, but it's not a huge deal.

1. 
   RickL | Jun 01, 2004 02:40pm | #5

   Bigger Problem???  Even on a right tilt if you put a thin kerf blade the fence must be recalibrated. I modified my Biesemeyer so I can move the cursor enough to align it with either side of a full dado and have a preset stop for my standard 1/8" blades so going back to zero is instant and requires no thought. Thumbscrews means no special tools. If it isn't quick and easy I won't do it.  Quite nice to be able to reference from any side of the dado not to mention even the center for various applications.

   I don't see what arbor  thread orientation has any bearing on anything. These nuts aren't something you can pick up a hardware store. Rule of thumb is arbor nuts loosen in the direction of rotation. This applies to router collets and anything that spins with a cutter. Reverse rotation on shapers requires a double nut because a single nut spins off when power is reversed.

   Exactor and Excalibur sliding tables will fit on a left tilt saw. Can't say for sure all other brands will but never saw  a tool that was perfect righ out of the box. I'm a practioner of tweaking to make it better.

1. 
   Dustmight | Jun 01, 2004 04:25pm | #6

   On the RT saws I'm familiar with, the face of the arbor flange faces to the left away from the fence meaning the right edge of the blade is in a fixed location regardless of the thickness of the blade, including a dado blade. The thickness difference changes only to the left of that fixed location, so I don't understand why you'd need to adjust the fence if your cuts are between the right side of the blade and the left face of the fence. A LT is the opposite and the blade thickness changes towards the fence, which throws off the measuring scale and requires some countermeasures (pun intended...).

   Since the flange on the LT faces to the right, the arbor thread orientation still tightens against the blade rotation. The only thing it has to do with anything for me was that the reverse orientation on my RT drove me nuts trying to figure out if I was turning the correct direction. Probably not a problem for most, but apparantly I'm reverse orientation impaired.

1. 
   RickL | Jun 01, 2004 04:46pm | #7

   The arbor flange registers to the plate of the saw blade.  On a thin kerf blade the carbide is thinner which would require the fence to be recalibrated even on a right tilt even if it is only 1/32".   People get confused as they are comparing the 1/8" dado saw blades and standard 1/8" kerf saw blades and forget about thin kerf blades. My solution of increasing the cursor travel with a preset return stop is a simple solution to what seems like a big deal to some folks.

   Always loosen the nut in the direction of rotation. Like gravity, death and taxes it's one of the laws of the universe.

1. 
   Dustmight | Jun 02, 2004 03:35pm | #8

   Rick - Thanks for "splainin" it to me. I never considered that the width of the carbide was different on TK and regular.

4. 
   BenchMarkPhil | Jun 01, 2004 02:34pm | #4

   As Scotty mentions, it's mainly a matter of personal preference.  In your market I think you'll find mainly right tilt saws though, I'm not aware of any leftys except for the euro dewalt 746.  I have an article on my web that lists the pro / cons if you are interested.

   PMB

   http://benchmark.20m.com