Set up the Rigid “MS-UV” (Miter Saw Utility Vehicle — seriously, that’s what they call it) today. Nice piece of equipment! However, the miter saw never made it. It’s lookin’ real good with the Delta 12.5″ planer on it.
The planer gets moved around way more than the miter saw does. I’m seriously thinking about making a plywood sub-base for it, and mounting that to the miter saw stand. Can take it off this summer when working on the deck-rebuilding project.
To anyone who has the Rigid, do the legs totally lock in place on yours, or is there a little play if you lift up on the handle?
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
I picked up my "MSUV" on Friday and have also been using it for a planer stand. My planer's mounting holes reside above the "no-drill" zones so i've just been clamping 2 corners to the top. The surface is surprisingly slippery and the planer often shifts, so i think i'm going to steal your idea of a mounting board- thanks!
I'd rate the overall stability as adequate. Not sure specifically what you're referring to. The "cantelever" design where only 1 end is anchored and the other end is on wheels is unique. Those clawed-caps that hold the axel are pretty cheesey. I drilled and pinned the ends of 1 roller when i couldn't get them to stay on. Overall i'm pleased, but i'm sure glad i got it for $100 and not $150.
-brad
Yep, to get the planer bed aligned with the rollers, it does put the holes over the no-drill zone. And I ain't messin' with that! Are the rollers on yours exactly the same height when at their lowest position? Even if I could mount the planer directly, one of the rollers is just a smidge too high.
The sub-base will need to be counterbored to accomodate the heads of the bolts. I'm wondering if that will leave enough material to securely hold the planer should the stand be folded up. Am thinking about using two pieces of plywood, one with relief holes for the bolt heads, instead of drilling part-way through one sheet.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
At a cursory exam, the stand seems very stable once the legs are settled into their max angle. Darned thing is way heavier than I was expecting, which is probably a good thing.
"clawed caps" -- I didn't notice those. You're not talking about the nuts that hold the wheels on. Hmmmm, I'll have to take a look. Don't want any rude surprises.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Lynn,
Not sure I understand what you are asking? I've had mine for a couple of years now, and have adjusted the bed so it locks tightly, if that's what you mean.
Hi Craig. Looks like you've got me (Jamie) mixed up with someone else (Lynn), but that's OK. I'm real bad at names too, LOL.
What I was referring to was the legs (on the opposite end from the wheels). Let's say I have the stand set up and want to lift the legged end and just roll it a couple feet. The legs aren't locked completely in place. They will drop just a bit, but when you set the stand back down they'll spread back to their stable position. I think it's probably normal, but just wanted to make sure the spring-pin-thingie isn't weird on mine.
I did notice that the table/bed, when in the locked position, still moves an inch or so when pressed on. Is that the part that you adjusted out? How did you manage that? I looked underneath where the rod meets the V-shaped notch, didn't see an obvious way to make it totally locked. Of course (I just realized) with the saw on there, or the planer, it'll settle into its lowest position, so probably no worries there.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 3/14/2006 12:36 pm by forestgirl
The legs are the same on mine. For the latch, I ended up bending the metal for a tight fit. Somehow I really tweaked it and bent it back for a tight fit.
My msuv has no play in it, but, when you go to open the unit up I have to make sure the legs lock in place. Also, the release to close it is stiff. I figure it'll break in with enough use. The 1290LZ saw is way too big and heavy not to have it on an suv, unless it's going on a bench and never be moved. When I purchased the ridgid 13" plainer it came with a free stand. And an extra set of blades.
Edited 3/14/2006 6:51 pm ET by csacoe
Clawed caps = the chromed caps that anchor the ends of the 2 rollers, or at least try to. I couldn't re-attach one that had come loose, so i just removed the other, drilled both ends and pinned them w/ a cotter key.
My rollers are pretty even in their lowest positions, but i like the idea of an anchoring platform even better than a single board. Regarding stability: make sure the table is latched underneath. I had to open and close the unit several times before the table would lock into position. After it did, stability drastically increased.
-brad
"Clawed caps = the chromed caps that anchor the ends of the 2 rollers" OK gotcha. Your original post read "Those clawed-caps that hold the axel" and I was thinking wheels, not rollers.
They mentioned in the assembly instructions that one's "speed" might need to be adjusted to find just the right touch for getting the platform to lock. Pretty funny.
I'm finishing in the shop this week, so may not get to make any sawdust for several days. Darn! If only there were 2 cats and a dog in the house, I could move into there with the varnish, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled