Hi all, another question…or inquiry really. I have a Rigid 10″ portable table saw (with stand)…and love it by the way. It has a splitter…works fine but I’d kinda like to put in a riving knife.
Does anyone out there have a Rigid 10″ portable who has added a riving knife to it…if so, what kind and can I ask how you attached it? My Rigid documentation for the saw has nothing about it and I’m not sure I see a place where it should be attached if I had one. I searched the web and really have found nothing specific…so, in case nobody here has done this a more general question might be…
Have you attached a riving knife to your table saw where your table saw didn’t seem to have a specific place to attach the knife?
Thanks for your help.
Replies
The new Ridgid portable has a riving knife, the older ones do not. What model do you have?
I believe it is the TS2400LS. I got it last year boxing day at HD (for $350Cdn) if you can believe that! I know they came out with the "upgrade" with some small improvements like a month or two later perhaps that is the one you are talking about. I think I've read that almost all table saws come with a riving knife as standard now.
I'm not certain, but I think the new model is the R4510 that has the riving knife. I have no idea if the new part itself is retrofittable to the TS2410....I kind of doubt it, and I'm almost positive Ridgid won't encourage anyone to try it even if you ask. If you can find exploded pictorials of both saws, it'd give some hints.
Ya, so I found a Rigid power tool forum and see somebody has asked the question. Looks like new saws have a knife and older ones (even though just a year old)...do not have a knife and their doesn't seem to be a place to take one. I mean, it's a great saw, I really like it...it's my first so I don't have anything to really compare it too but bummer on the knife it seems.
I think you're stuck with a splitter. Splitters work, they just aren't as nice.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Edited 12/9/2009 3:33 pm by popawheelie
Nothing to do with this post...
But I do have a Ridgid TS that works for me and then some..
I saw....
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
I do remember helping a family member install a 'Lectric' fence for a male horse that liked to wander off. We were finished and he did his thing on the wires.. He went crazy and just knocked down the fence...
We had a very hard time to get him back into HIS yard...
I used to be more like the last group. I'd like to think I have "learned " to be more like the first two.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Sorry, I do not understan what you said to me!
There are three kinds of men.
I used to belong to the last goup. "pee on the fence".
I've worked hard to mend my ways and act more like the frist two. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Me also.. I look for insulators that hold wires before peein on a fence...
No worries with the splitter. It'll do the job well. THE biggest advantage of a riving knife is that it's in the way less so you'll tend to leave it on the saw so it CAN do it's job. If the splitter's in place, it'll do the job too. A riving knife is nice, but it seems to get exalted to a higher level than it deserves. It's not worth a $300-$400 premium IMHO. It's just a nice splitter that's more convenient to use.
I believe the newer Ridgid has only the tall riving knife with guard and pawls attached, not the smaller one that you can leave in place for most cuts, so you haven't missed much. The two saws are basically different in that one is a contractor, the other a hybrid, so parts are likely to be incompatible. The newer one has been withdrawn because of granite problems, though local Canadian stores may still have some. Mine has 3, still at $799, so you really got a deal.
Jim
A saw with a true riving knife, as I understand it, has basic design differences that make it almost impossible to add a riving knife. Sort of like adding wings to an ordinary car to make an airplane out of it. It is impractical to adapt to a riving knife to a saw that was manufactured without one. Again, as I understand the riving knife, the whole assembly goes straight up and down, motor, arbor and all - sort of like a thickness planer. The arbor of an ordinary saw is hinged for the blade to go up or down. There is a fella that makes a system that mimics the riving knife on some saw models, however, and I think his name is Bork. He is moving so is out of business for a couple months.
The riving knife is a safer system than the splitter because it always surrounds the blade very closely no matter what height the blade is. It usually is much easier to install and remove so is much more likely to be on the saw when you need it. In my mind, the value of the riving knife is somewhat similar to the value to the Sawstop in relation to amputation. If you never have a problem with the splitter on or off, then it has no value. On the other hand if it prevents having some crushed ribs, a broken arm, or possibly even death, then the difference becomes significant. Personally, I have a PM 66 and I plan on keeping it. So be it. I will take that chance.
Edited 12/9/2009 11:25 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Yes indeed, I believe I am learning that in this post. I do believe only my saw blade goes up and down...not the whole assembly. Thanks.
Thanks all for your replies. This place has such a great forum!
Actually, I think that the whole arbor assembly of your saw (constructed without the riving knife) swings from a pivot as the blade is adjusted up or down. At least that is the way the saws that I've had worked. You can see that a knife attached to the end of that would vary in height more than the blade because it is further from the fulcrum.
I might have misled you in comparing the mechanism of the riving knifed saw to the thickness planer as the planer raises the table up or down whereas the riving knife moves arbor assembly up or down. The arbor assembly has a name but I can't think of it. I get that way as I get older. I was hoping an expert would step in here and help us out but it seems they are out to lunch.
Edited 12/11/2009 7:39 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Edited 12/11/2009 7:42 pm ET by Tinkerer3
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."
Will Rogers
Succeeded in joining the first group by reading this board to learn what a riving knife is on my new Ryobi BTS16 table saw. (The manuel calls it a "splitter," but it looks like the illustrations of riving knives I have found).
Prefer to stay in first group, would accept second group (but we don't have none of them 'lectric fences hereabouts); willing to join third, if necessary, so long as it don't hurt too much:
Just exactly what happens when you pee on an electric fence?
TNX for all help offered.
peeNsee
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