Just put together the new Rikon 14″ 10-325 bandsaw. It was missing the bolt holes in the cast iron table for the fence, but I just driled the holes myself. I then rewired the machine for 240V after tripping a breaker at 120V (15 amp breaker–my fault). After blade drift adjustment, I cut some 12.5″ Red Oak into 1/8″ veneer. No problem. The machine cut through it like butter! All this with the stock blade! I think that this machine will live up to it’s reputation. I will report good or bad news later.
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Replies
Thanks for the report. I'm saving for one as we type. Did the saw come wired for 110v? I heard it came wired for 220v. My garage wiring is sad--currently one 20 amp breaker. I am hoping to add a 220 breaker in the next few weeks. Please do post back as you use the saw. I for one am very interested in your findings. Tom
Yes, mine did come wired for 120V. I kept tripping the 15 Amp breaker it was on ,so I converted it to 240V and hooked up into my table saw power cord temporarily. The Bandsaw is a bit tedious to set up correctly the first time, but it seems to stay tuned between days of use (letting off the tension of the blade and then resetting). My only gripe is a small one. I wish I had kept the KREG band saw fence I sold with my last bandsaw as it was far superior to the stock fence on the RIKON. The adjustment for blade drift is fairly straight forward, but keeping the drift adjusted while setting the fence to 90 degrees is a chore. A lot of fiddling the first (and second) time.
Overall I am very pleased with the bandsaw and would give it 4 stars for build quality and 5 for cut quality. I cannot give the saw 5 stars for build quality due to the missing holes in the table for the fence mount.
The cut quality is quite impressive. I was able to cut some 1/32" oak veneer (just to see how far I could push it) with only 0.001" difference from top to bottom. And 0.005" from end to end (16" long). I thought this was "good enough" for most projects I was working on!!
Thank you for the reply and information. Did you buy it from Woodcraft? It seems for the money the best 14" Bandsaw on the market. How did you handle the light if you changed to 240v? Does it come with it's own cord and plug? Did you have to make a cord and plug?
I wonder if your saw was one of few or the only one with out the holes drilled or if they are all like that since the other 14" Rikon does not come with a fence--could it be they are using the same top?
Thanks again for the information. I'm saving for mine. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
I did buy it from Woodcraft for $699 + tax during an open house weekend. The light has its own power cord for connecting to 120V. About the top, the pictures in the manual clearly shows four holes across the front of the table. I think this is an example of what we call at the factory I work at a "Missed Operation".
Comedian Ron White tells the story of taking his van to Sears for new tires, and when he turned right leaving the mall, the left rear tire fell off. Apparantly, the tire guy, whom they sent to "tire college" was absent on lug nut day. Your table must have been worked on the guy who missed fence rail drilling day! Thanks for the info. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
My wife just asked waht I was laughing at. She didn't get it.
Scott,
I have one too. Havent tried to cut veneer yet, but you have motivated me. Can you give me any hints on how to correct the drift? I have the blade adjusted to 90 degrees. I have the stock fence and still have the stock blade on it. I take it that you keep the fence at 90, and adjust the knob that tilts the top wheel until you don't get any drift while running it along the fence? or did you mark a line down the center of a piece and not use the fence, and see what the drift angle is in order to keep the saw on the line? I have never used the bandsaw to do anything but curves. I am anxious to give this a try. Any hints would be welcome.
Thanks,
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel:
I followed the steps in an article similar to thie one below. Although I first tried to get the "drift" of the blade to be as close to parrallel to the miter slot as posible by adjusting the knob behind the top wheel. It would take a lot of tweeking to get it perfectly parallel to the slot, but I just got it within about 5 degrees or so and then adjusted the fence rail by using the methods shown the the manual (front and back support studs can be unscrewed to turn the fence from parallel to the miter slot). This is a tedious thing to do (about 20-30 minutes of fiddling and test cutting), but well worth it. And by the way, the upper and lower guides need to be re-adjusted every time you move the drift adjustment knob behind the top wheel. I am still using the stock blade. If anyone finds a place which sells stock 111" blades, let me know. I would like to buy a couple of thinner blades for curve work.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011143044.pdf
Scott,
Thank you for the benefit of your efforts. I will give it a try.When I got my Rikon, there were some problems. The table was not adjustable to be flat. I called and they sent me a new one. The hinges on the bottom door could not be seated. After some analysis, I realized that there was a piece of metal in the hole the hinge goes into. When I got the stray piece of metal out, the hinge fit right into place. One of the blade guides was missing. They sent me one. Rikon service was fast, courteous and very good. Their quality control left something to be desired. Adjusting the blade guides is a bit tedious. As you tighten them, they move a bit. Some better engineering could have solved that. Adjusting the angle of the table is a pain. One doesn't do that often, but... . It is a matter of balance. Adjusting the table on a nice Delta is far easier. All in all, I believe I got what I paid for. It is not bad. Everything can be worked. But the cost was quite low, and the service is excellent.Have fun. If you run into any other problems, or learn any lessons from this device, please let me know. I will do the same for you.
Thanks,
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
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