I bought a Rikon 14″ Deluxe bandsaw a few months ago. It is my first bandsaw, and my bandsaw experience previous to this is pretty minimal. When I bought the saw I picked up two extra blades (Olson AllPro) because the sales folks suggested that the stock blade was kinda flimsy. I got a 1/4″ blade and a (I think) 5/8″ blade. The 5/8 blade went on just fine and everything seemed normal although I ended up breaking it a few weeks later…. When I tried to put on the 1/4″ blade it was loose and sloppy, and it wouldn’t get tight. The box it came in advertised a 111″ blade – same as the 5/8″ blade – which is the size that fits the Rikon saw. I put the blade aside, and havn’t thought much about it until today when I bought two different 3/4″ blades from two different manufacturers (one is an Olson AllPro), and they both seem to be loose. Both blades are 111″ and the AllPro even says that it fits the Rikon Deluxe bandsaw.
The blade that came with the saw could be made to be guite tight – so that the blade deflects very little when pushed to the side – with plenty of adjustment left. I’ve bottomed out the tension adjustment with both 3/4 blades, and they still seem loose to me.. I did try cutting with the AllPro, and it did Ok although it was making a hell of a racket running by itself.
I’m wondering if there’s some subtlety to bandsaw blades I’m missing. Is there some reason why one 111″ blade gets tight as a guitar string, and another is like a wet noodle? Does the type of tooth, number of teeth etc. have anything to do with it? The blades I bought are both 3tpi hook tooth blades. The stock blade is 5/8″ 4tpi hook.
I’d appreciate any advice.
josh
Replies
It may be that when the blade broke something in the tensioning system moved out of place.
Morning Josh..
Measure the blades you purchased with a seamtresses tape or a string. Measure around the wheels with the tension off.. Check to make sure that the tension spring did not break or the mounting brackets it sits in are still securely anchored...
BTW.. I saw a General Motors contractor for parts mis-box left hand quarter window reveal moldings once as as right hand to the tune of over 30,000 before being corrected. I also see reputable suppliers put convertible rear seat covers in a set of coupe boxs.. etc., etc. If it can happen.. it will happen on occassion.
Check all angles throughly....
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Edited 6/23/2007 10:16 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Hi Sarge, Thanks for the heads-up. I actually got in touch with Rikon, in the meantime, and they informed me that Olson has been making blades 3/8" longer than spec. Why...? I don't know. Maybe a fluke, as you said. Rikon advised on how to correct the problem by adjusting the upper wheel so all is OK.
Regards, Josh
Afternoon Josh...
I would measure the Olson blade. If it indeed is significantly longer than 111", I would get in touch with Olson and have them replace the clearly marked 111" blade you thought you purchased with a 111" blade. That will balance the scales and perhaps Olson will put a little better quality control in place.
Even if you can adjust the upper wheel and make it work... the fact remains that the 111" blade is not a 111" blade and detouring around it is not going to fix the problem everyone that purchases it is going to have as you did. If I were them I would tell you to keep the ones you have and send you replacements. That's just good customer service which not every company has anymore.
Their repsonse would indicate if I wanted to continue purchasing from their company. We are accountable for what hits the market. ha.. ha...
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Sarge, You make an excellent point. I have certainly held other companies accountable (DeWalt and Rikon to name two) for quality/manufacturing control. I hadn't thought about it with the blades, but I agree that we who have had, or are having the problem should speak up. I try to adhere to high standards with my workmanship and customer service, and it is very frustrating to see the drop in quality and accountability throughout the industry.
On a similar note.... I've bought a LOT of lumber with drying defects... like severe case hardening to the point of rendering a $100 board almost useless. I have had quite a few creative breakthroughs trying to salvage a very expensive piece of 8/4 or 10/4 lumber (or the 350' of 4/4 birch I bought that refused to stay straight), but I'd rather be able to use the lumber I buy for the project I bought it for - and not waste so much time and money. Do you have any thoughts about how to deal with bad lumber? I have returned defective plywood after I cut into it, and found that the plies hadn't been glued properly, but I wonder about how to argue the case for solid lumber that's obviously been sped through the drying process..., and ruined.
I'll get in touch with Olson, and let you know what happens.
Josh
Evening Josh...
Buying lumber that has not been surfaced or S1 is always a gamble to a certain degree. But.. if your supplier is a "stand behind what they sell" company as mine (Suwanee Lumber Co. Suwanee, Ga.), they will make it good or offer a refund of a portion if you want to make use of it.
That has only happened twice in the 35 years I used them and they stood up and took responsibility in each case. I have heard on one here in the Atlanta area but have reservations as I do not know the true details.
Again... the little extra's exhibited by a company in the name of customer service gets my return business. For the ones that don't, it just gets my utmost effort to detour and take another route. :>)
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
The best thing I ever did for my bandsaw (16" Walker-Turner) was to install a Wood Slicer blade from Highland Hardware (ATLANTA). It not only was the exact size but also cuts like a dream.
I believe I'd remove the ill-fitting blades you have and send them back for a refund. That should get their attention and help them take quality control a little more seriously. No use starting out with a new bandsaw and sloppy blades.
Good Luck!
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