Replies

1. 
   Schenker9 | Jun 21, 2002 10:34pm | #1

   what is up with your font.................

   
   

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   Edited 6/21/2002 3:35:08 PM ET by MattSchenker

2. 
   thumbrule | Jun 22, 2002 12:30am | #2

   For a saw of that age and size, assuming you have the original rip fence, you may be happier with a product called the Para-Guage, which I have seen a catalog (perhaps Hartville Tool, which has an online version, but I don't remember for sure).  This product allows you to set your existing rip fence parallel to the blade at a specific distance.  At $50 or so, it would be less expensive than an aftermarket rip fence and less painful than taking a hacksaw to a brand new fence right out of the box.  

   Bob

   
   

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   Edited 6/21/2002 5:31:29 PM ET by thumbrule

3. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 22, 2002 04:09am | #3

   First question is why do you want a 20" and nothing bigger? If you are hard pressed for space then I can understand but if 10" is not going to be problem then I see no reason why you couldn't go 30"

   I have seen plans for several different styles of T-square style fences that are cheap to make and are just was good as the bessy or its knock offs. Short of making your own fence than you are going to have to buy a 30" and cut it off.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

4. 
   sschefer | Jun 22, 2002 05:26pm | #4

   Dave, the 30" Basic Jet Fence is probably a bad choice since it is not a universal mount. The Beismeyer universal fence can easily be mounted to a 20" wide table top without cutting the rails. The rails on the 32" fence are 52" long with a variety of pre drilled bolt patterns. You can then add melamine side extensions to fill in the empty spaces. I used 2" aluminum angle stock to make the supports for the extensions and bolted those to the fence rails. The melamine is bolted to the aluminum making it simple to replace if it gets dinged up. The rear fence rail can be used to hang an outfeed table off of which you will want if you buy the 42"  commercial grade Beismeyer fence. One thing I should mention is that what is commonly refered to as a 30" or 32" fence is actually the usable portion of the rails to the right of the blade it is not normally the actual length of the rip fence itself. Here's a picture of the one I made. These is what is referred to as a 32" fence.

   View Image

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Sancho | Jun 22, 2002 08:52pm | #5

   Nice set up Steve Ive been thinking about adding a outfeed table and you gave some ideas. I hope yours isnt patented :) Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"

1. 
   sschefer | Jun 25, 2002 06:13pm | #10

   Ron, feel free to copy. The legs on the outfeed are just 3/4" galv. pipe attached to flanges that are bolted to the table. This works pretty slick because when it needs to be out of the way, I just take it off, unscrew the legs and throw it in my sheet goods rack that I havent built yet. LOL.Steve - in Northern California

2. 
   user-3274131 | Jun 23, 2002 03:53am | #6

   I meant our saw is 20" from font to rear ; I wasn't worrying about the left - to - right, or rails.  David V. Webber,    [email protected]

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 23, 2002 06:24am | #7

   David a longer fence is safer the a shorter fence. Myself I find it easier to handle sheet stock and longer lengths of lumber. My older Rockwell table saw had a fence that was only the length of the table and locked at the rear. The saw motor hung off the back of the saw by almost 10" so a extra 10" of fence really wouldn't of matter to much. My new saw is has a T-Square style fence the over hangs by 10" and the motor is still proud of that. But if it does matter then I think Delta sells a cheap T-Square style fence that should just fit your saw. Maybe worth a try.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   Adrian | Jun 25, 2002 04:10pm | #8

   "David a longer fence is safer the a shorter fence. "

   Oooohhh, now you did it....battle stations!cabinetmaker/college instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 25, 2002 06:10pm | #9

   Adrian I have heard stories from both sides of the fence. For a while I was even setting on the fence not sure which side to fall on. My neighbor thinks a smaller fence is better because he can keep a eye on my back yard and I think a bigger fence is better because it keeps prying eyes away. As for my table saw well like you said that is just a fight waiting to start.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

2. 
   sschefer | Jun 25, 2002 06:16pm | #11

   LOL... short or long.... nah... I ain't goin there...Steve - in Northern California

3. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 25, 2002 09:03pm | #12

   Well Steve you know what they say about men who have big hands, big feet, ... you guess it they have a big fence.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

4. 
   sschefer | Jun 25, 2002 09:40pm | #13

   LOL... I can't say much now can I... Well, anyway, I have the Beismeyer commercial version and like its longer reach. Of course the fence is soooooo much nicer than the stock Jet that it just might be that which is influencing my feelings. I really couldn't tell you whether a short or long fence is better. I do know that with the addition of an infeed roller and the side and outfeed tables, I can easily and accurately rip full width sheet stock by myself now. I could probably argue that the longer fence has a lot to do with that. Steve - in Northern California

5. 
   dhpascoe | Jun 26, 2002 02:54am | #14

   Steve, I totally agree with you.. I have a 43" fence and once I get a 3/4" sheet of ply up on the table, I can run it through with one hand thanks to that long fence.

   BTW, your shop is sooo clean! Aren't you doing any work lately?

   Dave from North Florida

6. 
   sschefer | Jun 26, 2002 07:56pm | #15

   Re Clean Shop... Well, what can I say, I'm a neat freak when it comes to the shop. Steve - in Northern California

7. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 27, 2002 01:55am | #16

   Hi Dave,

   I'm going to shy away from any personal exchanges on short vs long rip fences as well, but, as I understand it, these are the advantages of each.

   Short: (end of rip fence finishes parallel with blade shaft)

   This prevents the fence pushing your work back into the blade,

   either causing unwanted scoring of your work or a kickback if

   the blade bites well enough.

   Long: (end of rip fence finishes past the blade)

   Slightly more control over long cuts, but with the risks

   outlined above.

   I use short rip fences and rip 8' sheets succesfully (extension table also used).

   My training was quality and safety-based, hence my preference.

   All,

   Replying in point form, is there any other advantage/disadvantage that I missed?

   Cheers,

   Eddie