I like to remove saw marks from a ripped board by making one or two very light passes over the jointer. Since this will ‘narrow’ the board, I can rip just a hair wide and sneak up on the exact width of the board on the jointer. However, I find that I can saw more exactly than joint. What is the preferred procedure?
rr
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I don't know what the preferred procedure is so can only tell you what I do-IF the finished width is absolutely screamingly critical-and I can't think of why it should be? What are you doing to require that?
Example: 1)finished width required for board= 200mm. I will have already jointed one edge and used the Planer to thickness plane to required thickness.
2) Set tablesaw to rip a width of 202mm but note that this is only if there is a thin strip of waste to come off- the greater the offcut width the more chance there is of the board distorting but it also depends on other factors such as wood species, state of seasoning etc, in which a more generous allowance would be needed.
3)Go to jointer and set it to cut just under 1mm. Take one pass one way then another pass the other way which equals just under 2mm removed so now the board is a fraction over 200mm width-say 201.5mm.
4)Finish it to exactly 200 width with your number 7, 6 or 51/2. If your jointer is set up as it should be and you are familiar with the current "habits"" it may have then that 1/2mm is plenty to allow you to arrive at the exact width required.
Ofcourse, the other way to do this , assuming your thickness planer has the capacity, is to send that board through that machine after ripping to width. I would do it in two passes as well, checking width after the first pass,but a lot depends on your machine when doing this with just one board-better to gang and or clamp them together to get vertical stability. If just one board, sending it through at a skew helps, with a fine cut set- but I repeat-it depends on your machine (I suspect Grizzilwys etc would not be good candidates).
It's not uncommon to rip your stock a bit wider and then go to the jointer. You should limit the extra pass on the jointer to just one. If your jointer is set for 1/16", you rip the board an extra 1/16". Unlike edge straightening, where you transfer your hands to the outfeed, you want to make sure the jointer makes the full 1/16" cut throughout it's entire length. Since the board has been straightened before ripping, you keep it in full contact with the infeed table. Making more than one pass on the jointer will usually result in tapering the board.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
My jointer is set at a default 1/32", and I usually rip my boards 1/16 wide, and take two jointer passes after ripping. The reason I allow for two passes, is in case I judge the grain direction incorrectly, it gives me one more chance to correct it. When you're processing a lot of wood, the extra pass is a pain, but the insurance is more than worth it.
I use my jointer.. I use my Table Saw... Never had a problem with any wood after it was put on ther Jointer and sawed to what I wanted on the TS!
If your TS can saw straight not a worry!
The issue for me was a clean edge, the straightness was already a done deal.
"The issue for me was a clean edge, the straightness was already a done deal." What blemishes are your boards acquring when ripped?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I produce a lot of custom casings and trimstock, and I'll treat faceframe stock the same way. I do a lot more of that sort of single plank work than glue-ups. When I take that last pass slowly on the jointer, I seldom need to do anything but a light sandpaper scuffing to give it a little tooth for finish, if it's paint grade.
If I am glueing, it's still a better joint , jointed after ripping, there's no tooth tracks to make a more visible glue joint. Of course, some of that is the nature of my ancient tools, and that I share a shop with people, some of whom are more kind to the blades and stops than others. So if your tablesaw leaves a glassy finish behind, more power to you.
"Of course, some of that is the nature of my ancient tools, and that I share a shop with people, some of whom are more kind to the blades and stops than others." Ahhh, the vagaries of sharing tools.
"So if your tablesaw leaves a glassy finish behind, more power to you." Not consistently enough to be a guarantee. I was just curious.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
""So if your tablesaw leaves a glassy finish behind, more power to you."
ER, actually , not. That glassy/glazed appearance on an edge to be glued is not what is required to make the best glue joint. The very best is that surface left after you have taken a lick with *#7 to remove any machine irregularities and possibly add some spring to the joint.
I am not saying that an edge straight off a nice tablesaw blade will not give a strong joint-just that one is better than the other, and not much extra effort to do.
*Note: It takes a real wood machinist to admit that there are a few hand tools that are simply not expendable. (;)
Philip Marcou
Hi, Philip. You know, I suspect, that the "glassy" comment was from the OP.
My Freud combo blade will leave a very smooth, unmarked surface if I do everything right, but being human, I rarely do. And then there's the super-extra-fine crosscut blade they make, which does leave a polished surface, but I only use it on end-grain that's going to show (slats in a chair for instance).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"Glassy" came from me, In response to your question about what defects my ripping left on a board edge. It might have come over a little cross, but I wasn't clear on the intent of your question at the time.
It seems to me that there are many almost equivalent processes, mostly dependent on the tools a person has available, and the methods of the person he/she learned from. When I did mostly carpentry in my younger days, we'd say that, if there were four carpenters in the room, there were five or six ways to do any given job. The most important skill of all is understanding the nature of wood and the physics of tools, then you can do anything you want, with any level of technology.
I joint two perpandicular surfaces. I then use the planer to make two surfaces parallel and rip the final edge (finished width) on the TS. I use the forrest WWII on that last step and she's ready to glue.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
My jointer produced a washboard effect when I pass a board over it too quickly. I don't know if a slow pass completely elimates this effect or if it simply reduces it. Anyhow, I use my jack plane to joint the two mating edges at the same time.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris, they all produce a wash board effect which is reduced with decreased feed rate. It is a function of cutter block revs, number of knives and the feed rate. That is why better machines have 4 knives which will give more cuts per second and but still allow fast feed rates.
If you observe a good machine designed for high class furniture making you can expect to see something between 20 to 30 cut marks/scallops /ripples call them what you will per inch at usual hand feed rates.Philip Marcou
"My jointer produced a washboard effect when I pass a board over it too quickly. I don't know if a slow pass completely elimates this effect or if it simply reduces it."My situation exactly--until last Saturday when I installed new blades and tightened the belt, in addition to tuning it up using John White's book, "Care and Repair of Shop Machines." Wow! What a difference! It never worked so well even when it was new. I had been about to give up on it and go back to my Delta bench top jointer. (Thanks John!)Bob
No expert here.. I joint a rough edge and a face. TS and the drum sander takes care of the other parts!
You mentioned... I like to remove saw marks from a ripped board ..
I just have a 'so called junk saw' that no professional would ever use! I like my junk saw!
A Ridgid! With a good blade .. Like that red one from Italy. I never get rough edges..
Some wood ALWAYS burns a bit in places.. Whatever the blade is! At least from my experiences!
I am NOT knocking your skills, your woodworking, or saw at all. I just thought. If you have saw marks that woud affect or is it effect? the stick cut .. something is wrong with the blade to fence alignment?
Edited 8/12/2008 3:19 am by WillGeorge
I also have my joiner locked out at a 1/32" cut and find that ripping the board 1/32" oversize and then making one pass over the jointer does the trick. If my blade is leaving marks over 1/32"-deep, I have another problem to fix at the table saw!
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
I also have my joiner locked out at a 1/32" cut ..
I do that also. However many passes it takes!
Any power jointer is still going to leave tool marks. I have a 4 knife cutterhead on mine, and the cuts per inch is up there, but it is still not what I would consider a "ready" edge. After jointing, a pass or two with a hand plane, preferably a #7
or # 5 1/2, will clean up the tool marks left by the power jointer. Now you're ready for anything.
Also, wood moves. There's no reason that woodworking should be measured to machinist's tolerances. It's only going to stay that dimension for a short period of time over the course of a year, anyway. As long as it fits your present application, then you're good to go. I rarely measure in the woodshop. I mark!!
Jeff
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