I have a Jet 10 inch cabinet saw and recently I was ripping some 2×10’s to make a new work bench. I had 2 featherboards up against the stock. And to my surprise, the stock wanted to veer to the left. It was pushing so much that I had to remove the featherboards. Can anyone tell me why this was happening. I have been told my blade was not sharp, this was not true I just had it sharpened, while other said it was the fence, again not true, the fence was and still is true.
Thanks you Sparky 2006
Replies
Sparky,
Sounds like the piece of stock you were ripping was casehardened, which is a term given to lumber which has internal stresses due to improper kiln drying. When you rip the board, it is spreading (or sometimes it will pinch up on the blade) to reduce those internal stresses.
Good news is, it's not a problem with your blade or fence. Bad news is, it can be a pain to deal with unless you have a jointer. If you do, try ripping your pieces a bit over sized in width, joint 1 edge, and then rip the final sliver off the opposite end. That usually works for me.
Good luck,
Lee
Were you using an outfeed roller stand? Those can steer your wood askew if they're not perfectly perpedicular to the blade.
If you build it he will come.
Sparky
When that happens, remove the board, flip it front to back (on the length) 180 degrees and try again from the other end of the board. Make sure that your fence is not slightly pinching the work and pushing it against the blade by opening up the fence set up at the outfeed side of the saw by a 1/16''. This will not cause any problem when ripping rough lumber since you will still be using the jointer to square your stock.
You can also use a home made sled that holds your lumber on the left hand side of the saw blade, and you make your first cut without using a fence at all on the right side of the board. This is basically a 12" or so strip of plywood x 8'-0" long with a hardwood wedge at the top end of the plywood that you jamb the board in to. There is a hardwood strip that runs in one of the saw's guide grooves screwed to the underside of the plywood. You align the board that needs cutting so that you remove the minimum required to give you a clean straight surface, press down on the board to keep it from moving side to side, and run it through the blade. Repeat if required.
Lastly, use a sharp HSS ripping blade, and leave the carbide for the plywood and composite work. JL
In addition to what others said, I have to ask....what kind of blade were you using? For 8/4 hard maple, I hope it was a low-tooth-count rip blade, e.g., 24-tooth and a good brand!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
All of the above, plus if it IS reaction wood spreading against the fence, you can emulate the Europeans by attaching a short auxiliary fence to your stock fence. The short fence should end in line with the center of your blade to allow the reaction wood to do it's thing without springing against the fence.
Assuming the saw blade and fence are in alignment and you are using a rip blade for thick wood. Check the stock that is against the fence for straightness. If the stock isnot straight, either saw a straight edge or join it first.You can saw it straight with a carrying board or a straightedge tacked to the stock.I use an 8-0'x1-0' piece of mdf with toggle clamps to hold the stock.
mike
sparky.
You're pushing a live object into rotating forces.
Try to use the Dead Wood Concept next time.
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=54745
david
I've had this happen cutting heavy stock with a blade with high tooth count. (I know -- lazy.) The blade will overheat and warp, making it impossible to cut straight.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
A point to ponder about the newly sharpened blade, If it was not properly sharpened it may wander or "pull".
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
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