Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 19, 2011 01:36pm | #1

   The 30 tooth WWII is a much better ripping blade than the 40 tooth.  The 30 tooth does not generate the heat of the 40 tooth.

   A number of folks I know use the 30 tooth blade as their standard all-purpose blade.

2. 
   roc | Nov 19, 2011 08:02pm | #2

   More than one way to skin a . . .

   1lpvinyl,

   I can fully recommend the Forest blades but don't forget how handy these are for ripping

   http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws

3. 
   roc | Nov 19, 2011 11:02pm | #3

   Doesn't apply in the least but thought you might like to see

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Msec_di72fk

   PS: gloves are very dangerous around saw blades.  Bare handed the saw teeth would take a few nips of flesh but not pull in ones hand ( most likely ) how ever wearing gloves the glove could snag and pull in ones whole hand with no warning.  He's a BAAAAD BOY.

4. 
   TonyCz | Nov 20, 2011 03:49pm | #5

   Delta saw blade is what you need.

   Here is the link to the blade that you need to rip any hardwood over 5/4. It is from Delta, which is an 18 tooth carbide saw blade used only for ripping. The cut is rough, but you just need to allow for that when you rip the lumber to its rough sizing. The large gullets really help clear the wood chips while ripping.  Once you have used the blade on thick hardwood lumber you will be a life long believer in the performance of the 18 tooth blade and a must have in anyone's shop.

   By the way you can or should rough cut the lumber to rough length as well before ripping if possable. If you are ripping long lenghts and have the tension wood bowing on you, cutting the lumber shorter will also help reduce the tension in the wood while cutting shorter material, which = less waste.  If you need long lengths, then you will need to allow for the bow in order to get to your finish sizes.  Maybe as much as a 1/2" or more allowance, even with using a band saw for ripping.   

   http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-35-611-10-Inch-Ripping-8-Inch/dp/B0000223E9/ref=sr_1_57?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1321759322&sr=1-57

1. 
   roc | Nov 19, 2011 11:52pm | #4

   The courser blade will merely cut faster

   Course tooth count can not stop the reaction wood from closing the kerf with much force.  I have a pair of these 18 T Dewalt blades I use for cutting tenons with a shim the width of the tenon but for the problem presented here the thinness and narrowness of the bandsaw blade ( compared to the diameter of the table saw blade ) (combined with the lower horse power of his saw ) will be safer and more effective not to mention provide a smoother cut.

   The course blade is best when many feet of quality stock needs to be ripped in the least amount of time.

   Here is a clue for 1lpvnyl the wood is probably rather hopeless in that it will keep changing and changing and changing and not be stable enough to make anything of quality out of.

   I hope I am wrong.

5. 
   bones | Nov 21, 2011 11:12am | #6

   it is tough without power

   You don't say how wide the stock was and since you did not mention a 12" saw, I'll assum it was less than 6".   A contractor saw is tough when cutting thick stock just a fact of life.  A help would be a ripping blade.   Forrest makes a blade just for ripping and the fewer teeth the better in ripping.   A bandsaw is easier, but may not leave as nice a finish.  I've seen some keep the teeth as low ass possible flip the piece end to end (leaving a small strip in the center) and then finish with a BS.   Personally, I've done it both ways.  You have to be carefull due to possible pinch, but you probably had some stressed wood.  I just prefer the BS.  It's safer, and if you adjust for drift fool proof.   I now have a carbide tooth BS blade and the finish is as good as a TS.   The blade would help or take that money and put in in a fund to upgrade your saw.   Go find some old american iron.  It would cost less than what you paid for the contractor saw. 

   http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WWII-Blade-Raker-125/dp/B003378P1I

6. 
   Julimor | Nov 21, 2011 12:47pm | #7

   I've owned a 10" Delta

   I've owned a 10" Delta contractor's saw for over 15 years.  I've ripped 8/4 jatoba, african mahogany, padauk, oak and hard maple on it.  I also own 2 Forrest WWII blades but stopped using them for ripping a long time ago.  I have 2 CMT and 1 Freud rip blades that I use.  Even when the wood pinches on itself, I've been able to get it through without problems, though in the worst cases there's been some burning.  The WWII would bind and burn far more often.  That's why I stopped using them.  I also don't use a splitter.  I took that off a LONG time ago.  It created more problems than it solved.

   I know there's a lot of appeal to having one blade that can do it all, but I found taking the time to switch blades for the type of cut and wood is easier in the long run and gives better results.

   One other thing is how high you have the blade raised when cutting.  I prefer to keep it just high enough so the bottom of the gullet is just below the top of the piece I'm cutting.  That way the surface area of the blade in contact with the wood is minimal.  There's also less danger because there's less blade exposed.

1. 
   roc | Nov 21, 2011 10:24pm | #8

   Fact Check Please

    Julimor,

   I know you will mearly ignore my post

   :   ) 

   but some one needs to point out the facts here:

   > [ blade ] just high enough so the bottom of the gullet is just below the top of the piece I'm cutting.  That way the surface area of the blade in contact with the wood is minimal. <

   Is the way to have the maximum blade in contact with the wood.  The only thing good about that is it is safer as you have said.  It is a trade off :  more safety in exchange for more friction and heat and some loss of efficiency. 

   Keep in mind the disc of the blade is not really in contact and it is the teeth, which are wider than the disc, that are in contact.

   So

   if the teeth are exiting well above the plank and then plunging back down and in what does that mean ?  It is a table saw technique that experienced people use to solve problems like this by raising the blade high.

   Again if the blade is low there are MORE TEETH in the wood for the whole cut.

   This isn't something I dreamed up, my source is my man Ian Kirby.  See his book :

   http://www.amazon.com/Accurate-Table-Saw-Cambium-Handbook/dp/0964399954/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321928001&sr=8-1

   see page 70 and 71

   I agree with you it is often not needed to have a high power saw to cut hard 8/4 planks.  I too have done well with sharp blades and a low power saw until one gets some of this wood full of reaction wood.

   High speed ripping or especially grooving long lengths with a dado blade is another story but then you know that.