I’ve got a customer who would like a writing desk in sycamore and ripple sycamore. The design is simple and fine but she would like the top to be made from ripple sycamore.
Aside from cost, how well would this stand up to being used as a desktop? It would obviously be treated carefully but it would be a dreadful shame if it was to be easily dented. Is there anything I can do in the finishing process that would toughen it without masking the beauty of the wood?
She is reasonably fixed in her desire for this (aren’t they all!) but if its not deemed suitable, any suggestions for similar alternatives would be welcome as well.
Thanks
Replies
Tim,
The sycamore I've used has been rather soft.
Maybe you could suggest a leather write surface with a wide sycamore border, like antique writing desks.
Bon Chance,
Dan
"Ripple" sycamore sounds like it could be figured English Sycamore, which is actually a maple species and not a true sycamore. English Sycamore is often used for musical instruments and is expensive. But it is also beautiful and easy to work, despite it's heavy figure.
You can always resaw a board into shop-made veneers for the desk top. It should be hard enough, assuming your client is talking about English Sycamore.
Paul
Given I'm in England....
I didn't realise there were two different species of sycamore - learn something new every day! Still no matter - we know what wood we're referring to.
T
Edited 11/30/2004 2:07 pm ET by Tim
In my experience it is as easy to be confused when speaking the same (???) language as when speaking in a foreign one.
Attached is an image of English Sycamore (a member of the Acer family). If this is what your client means by Ripple Sycamore, you're in business.
Cheers,
Paul
Could you get a sample and let her write on it?
Tim..
I built a blanket chest last year; oak frames with sycamore raised panels. For finish, all I did was wipe the panels with Organoil, let it dry before wet sanding in a little more oil and completing with some paste wax. The oil polymerizes in the pores of the surface, hardening them slightly, the wax was simply to give a finish that was easily maintained. Granted, the oil did tint the panels slightly on the yellow / orange side (very slightly) but it really popped the grain; it looks awesome.
As for durability, so far it's stood up well to less than sympathetic use; 15 mins with the wax and a buffing rag brings it back to looking new once a month. Personally I reckon it'll make a fine desktop, so much so that I'm planning to build a secretary from it myself in the not too distant future.
One last note; it's beautiful wood to work, responding really well to hand tools. When power sawing, the high sugar content in the wood makes the cut edges prone to charring slightly.
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Thanks - I want to try to keep it as white as possible but at the same time show the grain to its best advantage. Did the yellowing occur on application or over a period of time? Just wondering how valuable test samples will be if the colour changes mainly over time (too late then!!)
Cheers
Tim
Tim..
it was near enough instant... the oil has a light honey colour; way lighter than the likes of linseed oil for example. I wanted to steer away from varnishes to maintain the repairability of the finish. An oil finish seemed like the best option.Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
There are some water based finished that won't yellow much unless they're exposed to direct UV light. I don't have any personal experience with them regarding durability, but when I asked the people at the Benjamin Moore store, they recommended one type that's made for flooring. If you want a durable finish, I think this is the type you want.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
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